took pics of OEM exhaust setup... so those few with 2013's can decided what they may want to do and placment. I will leave pics large for most details.

 

Had the piping from the catback made into 2.25" removed the oem resonator and replaced with a 22inch magnaflow glasspack. muffler was deleted for now until break in period is over to see how the sound and performance is.

New 2.25" pipe starts...



Magnaflow glasspack replaces resonator and fits within the heat shield.




S Curve left with enough clearance, just in case i wanted to add a muffler later. At this point i may want to but will wait the 7 to 10 days for break in period of the glasspack.

 

 

^
Sounds good to me!

 

went on a "spirted" drive this am... 3rd and 4th have definitely gained. 1st and 2nd.. have a bit of lack.. some drone.. seems as if to much "exhaust" is escaping... not enough back pressure. 3500 to 4000 rpm MIVEC kicks in and really feel/hear the car. should be interesting as day pass.

 

All Chrome blacked out, painted center also blacked.

 

Difference in size...



One of the useres mentioned a black plastic water guard... blocking air... once you remove the engine bay cover you can see what the user meant by the cover, it goes across the entire nose and protects some connections as well as horn. Picture was taken looking straight down, bar code sticker is where the intake hole is and is blocks off.



If you cut the offset snorkel plastic from the ralliart to being even and flat.. and some wiggle of the battery you will have no issue fitting it. The bracket is a bit of a PITA to get off without trying to damage it. but highly suggeted to be used.. as there is still some play. I ended up leaving the weather protector in place but cutting an offset hole in the plastic. 1st pic is of hole through the front grille, second pic is of it installed.

 

Dipped the wheels black today.. tried leaving the centers silver to match gas cap... but felt like i was trying to hard.. i blacked them out shortly after the pic.

 

Thats awesome, looks like we are running almost all the mods! Do you feel like now the intake is a tad too small now that you freed up the exhaust, i feel like i need to run the evoX TB and a bit larger pipping for the intake so more air in can match the air going out. Would love to run the Cams off the EVOX as well to see if i can get a bit more power in the mid range too.
O.S. looks great keep doing what your doing.

 

Exactly what i was thinking last night, your build was awesome. I really want to do the headers, but cant just yet for obvious reasons considering its a 2013. lol.
In one of my post from yesterday i stated the same thing. i feel like too much exhaust is escaping.. and the intake is screaming. i have a 2.4 eclipse TB on the shelf. I couldnt get the stupid black box off, over the weekend so i didnt install.

Im thinking of going to a smaller glasspack and adding the racing mini muffler ( is this what you have installed?) from Magnaflow to hopefully create some back pressure. I think it would give me a bit more low end power. I was reading that RRM and Lancershop has a few timing add ons pre programmed that work with CVT's safely. I was thinking of adding one for the quicker throttle. It may feel a little bronco for the first few days until use to it.

 

Nice job on painting the grille and the wheels. I plan on Plasti-Dipping my grille & wheels also. I did the rear emblems within 24 of ownership, but I'll probably end up de-badging it anyways. Did you remove the grille before painting, if so is there a DIY on that?


Nice job on your OS so far.

 

Well I have 2 magnaflow mufflers 1 is 16" I believe and the other is the mini 6" right at the tip. Lower Mid range seems a tad lacking now, but in the paddle shift mode its great just keeping it above 3k on excel. Cant complain cause it is not tuned yet. Im am budgeting for evoX TB, EvoX injectors (just so I dont max out the stock O.S.), and thinking of bumping up to a custom 3" intake n filter. Prices it out n I can make it for around $50.00.

 

Thank you. truly appreciate it. Today at 530pm makes 7 days of ownership for me. lol.
From my prior expierience with a Ralliart, removing the chrome ring to paint was a pain in the ***, as the bumper had to be removed to get to the bottm tabs. Plastidip is a lot easier to work with than your normal "aeresol can paint". Allowing the natural gaps in moldings to cut the plasti dip is best. I will show you an example of how i taped the edging with 2 pics i took this morning.

(Excuse the dirt on car its been raining now stop the last 3 days.)

This is an example of the center painted area. tape just above the edge, allow the gap to cut plastidip. cover grille with paper as you dont want dip getting on the radiator.



Here is where i taped the nose for the chrome ring.
on the 2013's the painted nose is deeply inset you can take you time taping in there or just be patient while remving dip as it wont be as thick to remove. I did tape edgiing first and than use a clear drop cloth plastic to cover car as i knew the angle of spraying would cause a bit of overspray on hood.





Ralliart example:



The second time i sprayed the ralliart i did it righ ton the car. on the outlander sport.. i also did on the car. Because i wanted the entire nose black, i did the painted part on saturday and let it settle for 24 hours and did the chrome ring on sunday.
Wheels can be done right on car as well. a tall white or recycle bag is key. to cover the rotors and calipers.

 

Anymore tips on the wheels?! They look sick. Have been pondering going with black on the wheels to match the black sport. Not sure if it would be too much though . Finally got my windows tinted to match back a few weeks ago. Looks sick!

 

tips on wheels as far as plastidip or sizing?
Are you leaving the chrome trim on the sport? buy the wheel kit from dipyourcar.com with the Silver Metalizier. black base coat, with a silver flake.

I think it would make the wheels pop. i wouldnt go pass 2 coats of the silver flake though. keep more of a black base coat.