IMPORTANT INFO: End Links and Outer Tie Rod Info
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
IMPORTANT INFO: End Links and Outer Tie Rod Info
** This information mostly deals with the 2011-2012 Outlander Sport. The 2013-2014 Outlander Sport uses a different designed part that is said to last longer (UNCONFIRMED)**
For the 2011-2012 Outlander Sport Owners: If when driving over a speed bump at low speeds you hear a clunk, a creak, or a grinding noise that seems to come from the suspension, this is the front sway bar end link. If when turning the wheel lock to lock such as when parking, this is the front sway bar end link.
These end links do not last long and are known to be faulty from the factory. Faulty in the form that they wear very quickly. Our end links are shared with the Lancer non-Evo and non-Ralliart and many have complained that the OEM set lasted as little as 15k miles before they were completely worn.
You can pick up a set for quite cheap through Cherry Hill Mitsubishi via this link:
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/cart.html
Because the OS shares the end link design with the Lancer, you can go aftermarket and get a kit that fits the 2008-2013 Lancer. The MOOG Kit gives you a thicker sway bar end link that yields a reportedly tighter handling response. There are also others, such as Duralast and Raybestos, but I've heard a lot of good feedback from the MOOG kit.
Also, if you let a suspension shop replace your end links DO NOT LET THEM PERFORM AN ALIGNMENT! Some suspension shops will tell you that you will need an alignment after the part is replaced, or tell you that the part failed because of an overdue alignment and this is FALSE!
**Tie Rod Information**
The Outlander Sport again, shares its outer tie rod design and part number with the Lancer. I bring this up because after having your end links replaced you may still experience a noise when turning, twitchy front end, or erratic steering behavior. These are signs of outer tie rod wear.
If you take your car to have this part replaced by the dealer, what the dealer will do is a semi tear down of the suspension and push/pull on this part for excessive play and give and he/she will inspect the boot cover for leaks and tears. All will appear normal to the technician and it will be reported that the car is perfect. Do not be shocked if this happens.
Again, this part is shared with the Lancer sedan, so if you'd like to, you can go aftermarket once again and not bother with the OEM parts. For THIS replacement, YOU WILL NEED AN ALIGNMENT!
For the 2011-2012 Outlander Sport Owners: If when driving over a speed bump at low speeds you hear a clunk, a creak, or a grinding noise that seems to come from the suspension, this is the front sway bar end link. If when turning the wheel lock to lock such as when parking, this is the front sway bar end link.
These end links do not last long and are known to be faulty from the factory. Faulty in the form that they wear very quickly. Our end links are shared with the Lancer non-Evo and non-Ralliart and many have complained that the OEM set lasted as little as 15k miles before they were completely worn.
You can pick up a set for quite cheap through Cherry Hill Mitsubishi via this link:
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/cart.html
Because the OS shares the end link design with the Lancer, you can go aftermarket and get a kit that fits the 2008-2013 Lancer. The MOOG Kit gives you a thicker sway bar end link that yields a reportedly tighter handling response. There are also others, such as Duralast and Raybestos, but I've heard a lot of good feedback from the MOOG kit.
Also, if you let a suspension shop replace your end links DO NOT LET THEM PERFORM AN ALIGNMENT! Some suspension shops will tell you that you will need an alignment after the part is replaced, or tell you that the part failed because of an overdue alignment and this is FALSE!
**Tie Rod Information**
The Outlander Sport again, shares its outer tie rod design and part number with the Lancer. I bring this up because after having your end links replaced you may still experience a noise when turning, twitchy front end, or erratic steering behavior. These are signs of outer tie rod wear.
If you take your car to have this part replaced by the dealer, what the dealer will do is a semi tear down of the suspension and push/pull on this part for excessive play and give and he/she will inspect the boot cover for leaks and tears. All will appear normal to the technician and it will be reported that the car is perfect. Do not be shocked if this happens.
Again, this part is shared with the Lancer sedan, so if you'd like to, you can go aftermarket once again and not bother with the OEM parts. For THIS replacement, YOU WILL NEED AN ALIGNMENT!
#5
Mitsubishi just recalled the clutch master cylinder on the Evo X that owners have been complaining about for years, and that was because the NHTSA deemed it a safety issue (difficulty getting in and out of gear causing accidents for various reasons), so I don't think they'll be recalling this anytime soon.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Mitsubishi just recalled the clutch master cylinder on the Evo X that owners have been complaining about for years, and that was because the NHTSA deemed it a safety issue (difficulty getting in and out of gear causing accidents for various reasons), so I don't think they'll be recalling this anytime soon.
The issue here is getting the service techs to understand what is wrong to begin with. I posted this because, as you probably read above in the original post, dealer techs aren't catching the problems right away. They only take the wheel off and check for excessive play on the end link and outer tie rod. Neither part will have excessive play but that doesn't mean they are good. So what could happen is, your dealer tech will then say "we hear the noise, but nothing is wrong with the car." So to save you all a "Could not duplicate problem" diagnosis on your invoices, I'm bringing the issue to light. With that being said, you can fight your dealer to replace the parts under warranty after you explain to them what to look for if you'd like to, or even fight for reimbursement if you have the parts replaced at an independent shop.There has been some luck with this in the Lancer community, especially. Just note that if you replace it with Mitsubishi parts, you may have the issue come up again prematurely.
Last edited by Outie11; Oct 26, 2013 at 09:21 AM.
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#9
#11
Evolved Member
Can you tell if it's from the front or rear? And/or which side??
Did the dealer only visually inspect while on the lift or did they actually do a test drive?
TIA, for any feedback.
#12
The rattle on mine was pretty noticeable at low speeds. Couldn't really tell which side it was on. So I switched out both sides on the front. The parts were only $20 - $30 depending where u get them from.
I put mine a lift and checked out everything myself and it all checked out visually. If it hadn't been for this thread I would have figured it out so quickly. Thanks guys.
I know the questions were for the other guy but thought I would post my findings. Hope this helps.
I put mine a lift and checked out everything myself and it all checked out visually. If it hadn't been for this thread I would have figured it out so quickly. Thanks guys.
I know the questions were for the other guy but thought I would post my findings. Hope this helps.
#13
Evolved Member
The rattle on mine was pretty noticeable at low speeds. Couldn't really tell which side it was on. So I switched out both sides on the front. The parts were only $20 - $30 depending where u get them from.
I put mine a lift and checked out everything myself and it all checked out visually. If it hadn't been for this thread I would have figured it out so quickly. Thanks guys.
I know the questions were for the other guy but thought I would post my findings. Hope this helps.
I put mine a lift and checked out everything myself and it all checked out visually. If it hadn't been for this thread I would have figured it out so quickly. Thanks guys.
I know the questions were for the other guy but thought I would post my findings. Hope this helps.
It gives me some idea of what to look out for, even though mine is a 2013.
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