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outlander sport factory radio sub install

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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 09:17 AM
  #31  
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Question wire remote ????

Originally Posted by jnoel0384
on wich wire we plug the remote for the amplifier ???normaly we plug it to the electric antenna....
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 11:29 AM
  #32  
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For mine, the amp turn on was connected to the acc fuse
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 06:10 PM
  #33  
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which wire would have constant 12V power?

Originally Posted by rjruiz8
Ok. My sub can be connected to either hi or low output. Anyways. This is what I did. I took off the 3 plastic covers by the door frame passengers side. I took the door panel off and looked at the speaker wires. You wont have to take the door panel out since I am giving you the picture. In the picture attached are the wires that come from the speaker to the head unit. Yellow and baige. Those wires hook into the plug in the picture and at the rear of the plug they change colors going to the head unit. They are red and green. The red is positive and the green negative. I spliced them and hooked my sub wires to them. From there I found a + power wire to power the sub and hooked up the ground to the bolt that holds the passenger seat to the chassis. I did everything so that the wires were hidden and not showing anywhere. I put everything back together and it is working great. By hooking it that way my powered sub turns itsel on when younturn thebradio on and dont have to have separate switches. It gets the signal from the speaker wires. By the way. Do notnunplug anything; i.e battery, plugs anything from the factory system or you will end up as I and some people have, with an airbag service message and then you will have to take it to the dealer to reset. Let me know if you cant see the picture. Have fun.
Good Job!

This picture is very similar (if not identical) with my 2016 Outlander. Did you happen to identify a wire with constant 12V power supply when the car is running? I am trying to find that wire to tap in for my sideview camera with constant power when driving.

Thx in advance!
John
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Old May 29, 2018 | 10:51 PM
  #34  
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Help! New Subwoofer and Amp

Hey guys, I just installed a 500W Jensen Amp and 12’ JL audio sub in my 2013 Mitsubishi OS but the thing only works when the doors to my car are open? Any ideas would be helpful, thank you

Last edited by TDubbb; May 29, 2018 at 10:55 PM. Reason: Misspelling
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Old May 30, 2018 | 06:40 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by TDubbb
Hey guys, I just installed a 500W Jensen Amp and 12’ JL audio sub in my 2013 Mitsubishi OS but the thing only works when the doors to my car are open? Any ideas would be helpful, thank you
You should provide more details about your install in order for us to give you some help. Where did you get the power for your amp and sub? I suspect it is not directly from the battery or from an unused terminal with a dedicated fuse.
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Old May 30, 2018 | 12:03 PM
  #36  
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Help!

Originally Posted by AWCAWD
You should provide more details about your install in order for us to give you some help. Where did you get the power for your amp and sub? I suspect it is not directly from the battery or from an unused terminal with a dedicated fuse.
Yes, my Amp has a direct connection to the battery with a fuse set in between approx. 4 inches from the battery that I mounted into the plastic sidewall in the engine compartment. I used all professional grade equipment for the install as well. The remote power to Amp is connected to cigarette fuse in fuse box under dash, it has an excellent ground from Amp. I have a 2 channel RCA converter line running from rear passenger speaker to the RCA output which connects to Amp. I checked and rechecked all the connections and it works beautifully but only when the Car door is open. The only info I have found related to this issue involves Active Noise Cancellation inside the car but my model doesn’t have that, instead it has the Handsfree Link System and I cycled through various modes of connection such as Bluetooth(main mode of connection), radio, USB, etc. and the results were the same
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Old May 30, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TDubbb


Yes, my Amp has a direct connection to the battery with a fuse set in between approx. 4 inches from the battery that I mounted into the plastic sidewall in the engine compartment. I used all professional grade equipment for the install as well. The remote power to Amp is connected to cigarette fuse in fuse box under dash, it has an excellent ground from Amp. I have a 2 channel RCA converter line running from rear passenger speaker to the RCA output which connects to Amp. I checked and rechecked all the connections and it works beautifully but only when the Car door is open. The only info I have found related to this issue involves Active Noise Cancellation inside the car but my model doesn’t have that, instead it has the Handsfree Link System and I cycled through various modes of connection such as Bluetooth(main mode of connection), radio, USB, etc. and the results were the same
OK. This is strange. When you say it does not work when the doors are closed, do you refer to the radio going dead or your amp, or your sub, or all?
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Old May 31, 2018 | 04:23 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TDubbb
The remote power to Amp is connected to cigarette fuse in fuse box under dash ..
try tapping another accessory-powered fuse.

i dunno .... kinda weird problem you have.
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Old May 31, 2018 | 06:56 AM
  #39  
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The most probable cause is that your remote power to the amp is connected to the interior light fuse (#9) instead of the cigarette lighter (#13) fuse. Double check it. For reference, I am attaching the fuse layout in my 2012 RVR/OS. You may want to consider connecting it to an open fuse (you will find one in the engine compartment)
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Old Jun 1, 2018 | 05:28 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by AWCAWD
The most probable cause is that your remote power to the amp is connected to the interior light fuse (#9) instead of the cigarette lighter (#13) fuse. Double check it. For reference, I am attaching the fuse layout in my 2012 RVR/OS. You may want to consider connecting it to an open fuse (you will find one in the engine compartment)
good catch! i knew it was something to that effect, but was working on 4 hours sleep when i was reading this the other day. LOL

duh! door opens, interior light comes on ... so does amp.
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Old Jun 1, 2018 | 07:39 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Landshark
good catch! i knew it was something to that effect, but was working on 4 hours sleep when i was reading this the other day. LOL

duh! door opens, interior light comes on ... so does amp.
Thanks, but the more I think about it, the more it seems that my logic may not work. Once you close the doors the internal lights stay on for some 30 s if the engine is not running. My suggestion is only a feasible solution if the OP tested his audio with the engine running. In that case the internal lights go off immediately after the doors are closed. This is why I was asking more details from the OP. There is an answer to everything but the key is in the details.
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Old Jun 1, 2018 | 09:09 AM
  #42  
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Another possibility is the ground he used being associated with the switch in the door. Door closed=open circuit, door open=closed circuit. BCM controls light time out and the light circuit is always hot. Door switches trigger lights on and off. Just a thought.

Last edited by tardisguy; Jun 1, 2018 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 10:17 PM
  #43  
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When I just finished install the sub and amp in my car. I put both the sub and amp under the stock floor panel in the trunk. I found a two wire harness under the trim on the drivers side by the wheel well that goes through the floor to a box under the car behind the rear tire. The white wire is switched 12v so I used that as my remote. I ran my ground to a body bolt right next to my sub and I ran a 12v power up to the battery with a inline fuse.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 10:32 PM
  #44  
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 08:44 AM
  #45  
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nice!
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