mRVRsport

Good suggestions -
From my experience..
1. A bad CV joint makes a clunk sound when turning toward it's direction, Especially going up a ramp/incline.
2. A badly wornout wheel bearing has a CONSTANT droning noise at speeds above 40MPH that'll drive you nuts.

(Ask me how I know these things )


I double that! Hope you find a MORE competent repair shop/mechanic.

jos76

Thanks guys I really appreciate all the replies and suggestions. I'll let you know if I ever find a resolution. (I hope I do!)

Easey123

ok my outie made the same noise over 65mph and only when it was wet outside. I know it doesn't make sense but that's the way it was. Anyway here's what to check. Lay on the floor under the rear bumper. There should be some "L" shaped brackets that hold the rear valance or lower bumper to the bumper. One of those brackets is probably bent. Just straighten it back out and see if the noise stops. Someone may have hit your bumper with out your knowledge and bent it. Good luck

Hamman

I was looking on Mitsu's website. You can register your VIN and see all the warranty work thats ever been done. Said my OS, 2012 customer complaint: Rear squeaks over bumps.
Looked in the claim. Turns out they replaced the rear control arm bushings on my car when it had around 10k miles on it....I have heard a similar thing going on gravel roads and more rough terrain but have not thought much about it...Might be something to look into.

mRVRsport

Good to know!
Will keep that in mind IF/When weird squeaks comes from the rear end..

RA012124

Oh my god, I just googled Outlander Sport Squeaking Noise and found this thread, because I just started having this noise for about a week and after listening to your recording, it sounds exactly like mine! If I'm driving on any type of surface that isn't perfectly smooth, I will hear that exact same noise. I thought it might of been my hitch coming loose, so I went to the back and couldn't make the hitch budge at all.

KMJA

I am new to this site but have EXACTLY the same noise as recorded on this site. Does anyone have a definitive solution. Thanks. 2011 RVR with 80,000 KMs. Cheers.

AWCAWD

Sadly I have to join this club. My car also started to make this exact type of noise. I could not tie it to road condition or speed as I have heard it on both smooth surface at ~60 mph and also bumpier road at lower speeds. I could not link it either steering wheel position or acceleration. My first suspect was the exhaust, then I checked the tonneau cover hinges, the spare tire tie down bolt, any items in the spare tire bay, and by rocking the car to test the rear suspension. Unfortunately, I have not found the cause yet but I am quite convinced that it is a loosened item and/or lack of lubrication. Once the weather turns nicer (I cannot believe that we have still 0 F here on March 6) I will certainly keep checking because I could be annoyed by noises. I am also battling with some kind of a dashboard noise audible only in cold temperatures. Once the cabin temperature rises this noise goes away. I have never heard the noise from the rear right after cold start though. I will report back once I solved those two noises.

mRVRsport

That's Not funny...
I hate annoying squeaky noises when I commute - All I ask for is some peace and quiet in those rush hour traffic.

If they are caused by the suspension/control-arm bushings, then those noises are very loud to peers into the cabin at 60MPH+ !!
That would drive me to nuts.

I wouldn't be surprised if those vulcanized rubber bushing(s) have given out though... Considering what some of us have experienced with this issue (about Mitsu rubber ) >>
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...formation.html

AWCAWD

I have found a probable but highly unusual suspect for the noise coming from the back of the vehicle: the fuel door. I did couple of things but have not been able to confirm with confidence whether this caused the noise recorded by the OP (my wife took the car for the rest of the day and I could barely finish the fix described below).
When I slowly closed the fuel door the hinge or rather a leaf spring on the door gave a creaking noise. I sprayed some WD-40 there. Then after closing the fuel door I repeatedly, quickly (may be at 1/2 Hz frequency), and gently tapped the rear part of the fuel door (at 2, 3, and 4 o'clock positions) and that also gave some whining noise. I wrapped electrical tape ) pick your choice of color) around the loop of the door lock (on the door itself) and placed two patches of electrical tape to the contact points on the door (you can identify the positions by finding the two corresponding contact points on the arch around the fuel cap (again around 2 and 4 o'clock positions). Apply multiple layers of tape to eliminate the play of the door when closed. I also lubricated the spring-loaded rod (at 3 o'clock position) that goes into the loop to lock the door.
Why could this be the source of the reported noise? The door can be set in vibration by the wind at higher speeds or by the vibration caused by driving on uneven road at low speeds. Given that the fix takes only five minutes I thought those of you, who have this problem may try it on this weekend. Even if the noise persists I am absolutely convinced that the source must be a light, loosened object. If needed my next suspect is the heat shield above the exhaust system.

mRVRsport

^
Interesting..
An unusual suspect for sure.

If you really do feel it's the gas door, then instead of electrical taping all those bits/joints I suggest you get a roll of self-stick thin window seal >


And seal around the gas door. That should tighty up the gap and prevent wind from jarring/vibrating it.



**********************

But, I will put my money on something else, since it's obviously quite loud and is penetrating into the cabin at high speed.

AWCAWD

You are right. Unfortunately, my unusual suspect was cleared of all charges. Sorry for the false alarm. I'll keep looking.

mRVRsport

yeah, your theory about the heatshield (for the muffler) is quite possible..
There's a catalytic shield too, I believe - might check that while you're under there.


(The only reason I brought that up is I had a similar annoying rattle problem in my mazda long long ago and it was pissing me off that I couldn't find the source... until an audio guy crawled up under my vehicle and tapped on the small shield for the cat and there it was. He tighten up one bolt and the noise was gone!)

TEXAS TRAVISTY

after I installed my custom exhaust the rear heat shield was no longer needed because it rerouted the muffler away from it, but the shop left it on. For so long I thought that my Magana Flow mufflers were popping like a snare drum and could not find out why, it was driving me nuts, until I installed the coiler overs I noticed it was still there I tapped it with a wrench and knew it was my cooperate right away. After I removed it there has been no more loud reverb popping from my exhaust... sooooooo much better. I would love to remove the header and cat shields as well but the RRM 4-1 header has no heat shield on it and my magna flow cat is right next to the cat heat shield as well, so those have to stay.

KMJA

I am very happy to share that the sway bar bushings in my 2011 RVR were replaced this week. I drove 600 kms today with no annoying loud squeak. A very big thank you to this discussion group for the suggestions and solutions. Thank you to Southside Mitsubishi Edmonton Alberta for the repair.