ItProSlayerz

Hi guys!
I'm interested in upgrading my halogen low beams to HID. Retrofitting an entirely new HID projector is beyond my skill and comfort level, so now I'm looking at HID kits. From what I've googled and read, many people discourage the use of plug and play HIDs and LEDs in halogen based projectors/reflectors, since they're not built for HID and LED bulbs. However, I've seen a few forum members throw in HID kits into their OEM halogen projectors (like this, this, or this) and was sort of confused. Are HID kits safe to use (I know they're illegal but in terms of functionality and the risk of blinding other drivers)? If so, are there any recommendations for HID kits I could look into? For reference, I own a '15 Outlander Sport ES with halogen low beam projectors.

Landshark

i put Silverstar ZXE bulbs in a '87 Porsche and was fairly impressed. maybe try that for ~ $60.
https://www.sylvania-automotive.com/...-zxe/index.jsp

the HID's in our OS are excellent, though - could try to find some used ones to replace?

AWCAWD

There is a great deal of interest in upgrading the existing headlight system. Without the intent of talking anybody out of this I would like to point out few relevant issues.
I wonder what is the exact reason why people want to upgrade to HID headlights?
1.Is it the white(r) output (~5000K) of the HID as opposed to the yellowish (3500K) output of the halogen bulbs?
2.Or is it the higher perceived visibility?
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1. The whiter output does not necessarily mean better vision. The human eye's vision peaks somewhere in the yellowish tone. Higher intensity is not directly equivalent of better vision.

It is important that one looks at the non normalized spectra (as shown above) as it reflects better spectral resolution of the human eye. Most figures online would represent all three receptors with equal intensities/sensitivities and distort the real picture. The whiter output means the light contains more blue light that our vision is less sensitive to. The blue light actually is harmful to our eyes and that is why we feel these whiter lights brighter because the blue light simply irritates our eyes.
Blue light - Is there a risk?

2.One should thoroughly examine the light output charts published by IIHS for the halogen and HID equipped Outlander Sport models to see whether the HID equipped models are significantly superior to the halogen equipped ones or not.
IIHS headlight test for Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
You will see that the actual outputs of the OEM halogen and HID headlights are very similar. The HID gets a better rating (marginal as opposed to poor) because it has some sort of high beam assist. If someone is attempting to put aftermarket HID bulbs the optics will definitely be worse (detuned) than in the OEM HID. That also means that the aftermarket layout might provide worse "true" visibility than the OEM halogen system. Then we should also look at how much more glare is introduced that blinds the incoming traffic. An important and often overlooked detail: the OEM HID equipped models have head light levelers, which will be missing in the updated cars.


So, do whatever you like but I am not convinced that we should call all head light modification to HID an UPGRADE.

Landshark

can't say for sure about the OS, but the Evo's HID output is 4300k (same with my Infiniti) Halogens are more around 3200k.
once you start getting above 4300K, they start getting worse for driving in the rain. i put 5000K bulbs in my Infiniti as a compromise for a whiter light but still decent in the rain. i can tell a *slight* downgrade when its raining, but im guessing 6000K+ are HORRIBLE in the wet.

also as AWCAWD alluded to, don't be that piece of **** with aftermarket HID's blinding everyone on the road!

AWCAWD

Thanks for noticing my typo concerning the color temperature of halogen lamps. I have corrected the error.
Also, you hit the nail in the head regarding wet weather performance. All tests are done in clear conditions (might even indoor). Once atmospheric conditions worsen and water vapor and condensation is introduced in the form of rain, light scattering will be a major problem that impedes visibility. Blue light scatters the most (that is why the sky is blue, and that is why the sunsets and sunrises make the sun orange) so if your light source emits more blue, you will have more scattering. I am amazed, how easily the industry manipulates the public.
I like most of us was looking into possible improved visibility but I gave up because of the mentioned reasons. Before anybody wishes to implement a seemingly superior lighting technology, please review again the test charts of one of the most credible sources (IIHS) and do not just read their verbal comments but thoroughly investigate the charts themselves. First off, this thread and the ones the OP ( ItProSlayerz) listed in the starting post aims to get low beam UPGRADE(?) only, so strictly speaking we have to compare the low beam performances.
I am inviting the community to investigate the dry weather low beam performances of the following cars to judge whether any upgrade is an upgrade in improved visibility:
BMW X1 with OEM superior (?) LED projector headlights or halogen reflector headlights,
BMW X1 headlight test charts by IIHS
Open parallel tabs and mirror check the performances with the OS' (either halogen or HID)
I am looking forward to hear anybody to pick up significantly superior performance signs of the X1 that justifies the premium quality and even the improvement between the base X1 and the expensive (premium package to get the LED headlights for US$ 2,500) upgrade. If manufacturers couldn't do it how a ~$100 or less plug and play item would do the desired UPGRADE. Let us not fool ourselves. The aftermarket systems are nowhere tuned optically and illumination technology starts with high precision optical alignment.
Another example is Honda CRV, where the LED lighting is providing only a marginal (at front center) if any improvement in dry weather performance over the halogen:
Honda CRV headlight test charts by IIHS
Again, people are free to spend their hard earned money on anything they wish but I would like to ask the community not to spread misinformation by putting out blanket statements that HID or LED lighting is superior to halogens. Such action fuels the manufacturers to charge even more for items that have a great propaganda tone but fail to deliver on the substance. IIHS tests pointed out that there is a room for improvement when it comes to lighting technology but not all HIDs or LEDs are equivalent to improved visibility.
I do see a benefit in installing LED turn signal lights as the faster response time of the LED light as opposed to the gradual warm up and cool down of the incandescent bulb alerts the nearby drivers better by a more dynamic flashing. There is no thread though in this forum on turn signal improvements. One would need to use load resistors though to avoid hyper flashing when the turn signals engage (hazard light will not hyper flash). I will do that once my load resistors arrive.
Public opinion to steer towards bluish tone headlights is heavily influenced by movies like James Bond: Spectre (see two images from the chase below)

ItProSlayerz

I've taken a second look at HIDs based on what AWCAWD has said + further research and now I'm fairly convinced that I'll be sticking with my halogen bulbs. I had originally expressed interest in an HID kit for two main reasons: increased visibility and a whiter output. The headlight visibility chart for the '15 OS by IIHS does indeed show little to no improvement between halogen and HID, which is important to note. As for the whiter output, I simply enjoy the look of a whiter light from HIDs over the yellow light from halogens (between 4300K and 5000K was what I was looking for, I definitely do agree that ~6000K+ is way too much). I'm not really ready to sacrifice the safety of me and other drivers for my own aesthetic standards, so I've chosen to look away from HID kits.

However, after examining the headlight visibility charts for the '15 OS, a new question arises. The '15 OS received an overall poor score for its halogen projectors, falling short of optimal visibility by ~50-75 feet depending on where the low beams illuminate. My main concern is visibility, so I was wondering if there was a safe way to increase visibility? Possibly by purchasing halogen bulbs with higher luminosity?

Landshark

you could try some OSRAM Silverstar bulbs (not that blue-coated crap we get here in the US) from an online retailer... they will probably be in the 4000-4200K range for white output. the downside may be bulb life - had them in a Subaru Legacy GT and they didn't last more than 6 months, but that car was notorious for eating bulbs due to its crappy projector design - you won't often see one on the road with both headlight bulbs intact.
if they are a PITA to replace on the OS, maybe don't consider this option ...

AWCAWD

Some people change the H11 sockets to H9 and can put 65W bulbs in place of the H11's 55W bulbs. This modification, however, opens up again Pandora's box in two counts:
1. While for reflector headlights this method seems to produce more light output for projectors it is imperative to make sure the position of the filament is in the exact same position in the 65W bulb of the H9 as in the 55W H11 bulb. The same concern I have against the LED bulbs where the light emitting diodes are firing at various different places that are certainly not all in the focal point of the projector lens.
Some results for XV Crosstrek:
H11 to H9 conversion light output (pictures incl)
2. The 65W bulb generates more heat and the question is whether the plastic housing is going to get deformed because of the excess heat.
Someone in the Subaru Outback forum has run a test (measured the temperatures):
H11 to H9 conversion warnings
Modifications in general require some experimentation and you have to decide whether you are i) up to the task in skills and tools, ii) willing to accept the risks both in safety and in effectiveness, and iii) can revert the mod if you judge that it did not deliver what you anticipated.
There are conversion sockets available if you do not want to carve the extra piece each time you replace the bulb:
Good luck.

AWCAWD

It appears to me that the H9 and H11 bulb filaments are not exactly at the same position as it is visible in the following picture:

image source
It seems that in the H9 it is further from the base, closer to the top than in the H11. That makes this mod questionable, when it comes to useful light output increase. Optics, optics, optics.
Another potential methods to potentially increase light output;

1. It might seem obvious but keeping your headlight glass clean of dirt makes the biggest difference. Where I live more than half of any month (except August) is wet (that is partly why I am against the whiter headlight output).

In particular during the long winter (practically 5-6 months) the headlights get really dirty. I was contemplating with the idea of installation of a headlight washer that is available on the ASX in other markets. I have not given up but it is a bit bigger project due to the lack of availability of parts on this side of the pond.
A humid and wet climate like in my area brings another possible option to improve visibility (not the range though). This might sound hypocritical from me as I was vocal against the excessive use of fog lights. I would acknowledge criticism for it, although the weather my justify it somewhat. Here in North America the authorities turn a blind eye on the general use of the fog lights, so you might opt for this possibility.
2. Use of fog light. This can be done in multiple different ways,
a.) simply turn them on with the low beams
b) program your ETACS (or have it programmed) to be used in any combination of lights (parking, low beam or even high beam)
c) wire your fog lights to be on all the time (this can be your DRL as well, since DRL increases visibility)

JuanOT

Just changed my fog lamp bulbs to H9 Sylvania Silverstars' and, it is really great! Brighter, but not blinding, somewhat whiter (making road "imperfections" clearer; at least by my impression), and a better match for the philips CrystalVision Ultra headlights. In all, a really good improvement over stock. Without much expenditure (but alas, without the cool-looking-white of LED or HID's!!!)
Now, if only I could find a way to keep the fog's on with the high's (just don't have access to ETACS)...

Landshark

the Silverstars come in different flavors ... European OSRAM Silverstars are the best, but i also tried ZXE's on a '80's weekend car and they were the closest to HID's i've seen. the bulb life might be short, so if the OS fogs are a PITA to
change, maybe not a good choice ...

AWCAWD

It is possible without ETACS programming. Read my detailed posts (with pictures) in the Outlander Forum (#1412, 1413) and you can have your fog lights on all the time (with different intensity). If you do not wish to add a different wiring harness to the fog lights you may simply connect the wires from the pictured connectors to the existing fog light harness (one side is enough). Not necessary but you may wish to pull the fog light fuse if you go along this corner cutting route.
If you follow #1412 from above you may have many other options (e.g. separate DRL+fog). I got the wiring harness for H11 fogs from a wrecked Lancer (just cut a foot of cable from the connector at each side and wired them to the severed yellow-and-black and blue-and-black wires on the left and right sides, respectively). This circuit has a separate relay and fuse by default (it just was not used in the halogen equipped models)

JuanOT

Thanks for your concern LS, but on 2013-15 OS's it's a 5-minute job for both lamps ( it takes almost three times to modify the bulbs than to install them!!!)!
AWCAWD, thanks for the info. Will look into that option and let you ( and all forumers!)know what I end up doing and how it went.

JuanOT

As I read AWCAWD's post, I understood that you would need to have DRL's as an operating option; most cars in PR from 2012 on do not have them enabled, and since mine is 2015 ... back to the drawing board!

AWCAWD

Grab a multimeter and check the voltage in one of these pictured connectors. It is not obvious that you need to have DRL programmed in the ETACS to have this circuit powered. You need to have "normal DRL" programmed for two intensity settings for night and day. Checking would not harm anyone so why not try?