Tonight I'll clean-up the engine bay in the car so it's all pretty and ready for things to go back in this weekend. It will be sweet to have the motor back in the chassis again.

 

Just finished reading all 15 pages of this. First off your work is awesome along with all the "self" engineering you have done while building your own engine. I cannot tell you all the simple things I have learned just by reading this post. Like the difference between the two kinds of cams. Keep up the good work and the best of luck to you.

-Ryan

 

i dont know how far you are with the 02 housing but i found these at atpturbo.com


http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FLS1

or


http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FLS2

 

I don't see the point of welding a vband clamp to the flange if he can just weld the pipe to it.

 

why not? it would make removal of the 02 housing easier if need be and it is 3"

its just something i saw that i thought he might want to know about

 

F.

I totally would have used that transitioned 5 bolt flange. I actually plan to do the same thing with a die grinder - it would have been easier to just buy that. I just discovered ATP turbo for fab parts yesterday, I actually have coolant banjo fittings and a silicone coupler coming that I ordered from them yesterday. They also have tight radius 3 inch mandrel bends, which would be ideal for the O2 housing. I got a larger radius bend and I think I'm going to have to do a JDM Ti style bend and cut a few tight sections and put them together.





I used ExtremePSI for most of my fab parts and random stuff, but I think ATP is a little better for the turbo specific stuff.

 

That's what happens when you're an engineer , I'm a mechanical engineer. I'm trying to make the thread useful for others, glad you like it.

 

*cough*your making two 02 housings right?*cough*

 

are you rerouting the wastegate or VTA?

 

+1 for awesome thread mate
looking forward to results of all your hard work

 

- I'm just going to dump the wastegate, I don't feel like plumbing it into my downpipe. I thought about a bumper cutout for it, but I'm not sure I want black suet all over the side of my car.

- I'm definitely taking notes on the 02 housing. If I'm happy with it and you like we can figure out something for you fo_sho.

I spent some time wiping off dirt in the engine bay. I decided to remove all the insulation on the firewall as well. That's always fun. I did it to the interior a few years ago. I just unbolted a few things and then started cutting it out section by section.

Before.



After.





I started grinding the O2 flange. This is as far as I got on a single compressor tank worth of air. The baby was asleep in her room above the garage - so I couldn't let the compressor fire-up.



Where the magic happens.

 

Nice progress! I'm in the process of deciding whether to do a 3076 or a 35r for my build, and a regular 2.3 stroker or the 2.3RR, so I'm anxious to see how yours turns out.

Dave

 

You are a genius. I want some brackets! PM me

 

If you ever take your car into stage rallies you will have to use a restrictor, which totally kills power above 6000 RPM or so. So the 2.3RR isn't going to do much there. But if the Pikes Peak classes don't regulate like that the extra Rev's are always useful.

 

Yep, those restrictors are BS! Pikes Peak is completely open as to whats allowed for powerplants, as are the other events in my hillclimb series. I'd also like to do some Time Attacks at some point, and since I'm not made of $$, I'd like to have one transmission that can serve double duty. I'm looking at some options for short ratio dog-boxes and in rally trim (i.e. ~6000rpm redline) it'll top out at ~120mph, but with the 2.3RR (~8400rpm) it'll top out closer to 160mph which would be great for track events. Top speeds at PPIHC are ~130mph, and that's for Monster...I'll be lucky to top 115mph.

I have a feeling that if the 3076 isn't enough juice, the extra revs of the RR would really come in handy with the 35R.

Dave