2.3L GT3076Build
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
That's not mine, it's just an example of what I think I'll have to do. But maybe just 2 or 3 pieces for me. Or if it looks like it won't work I'll order one of those tight radius bends from ATP.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
After doing some thinking I didn't want to compromise the O2 housing by having to weld a tight radius out of multiple pieces... so I ordered that tight radius 3" tubing from ATP. You can never have too much mandrel bent tubing laying around!
I got the coolant line banjo bolts today, these connect to 3/8" hose and are nice for building your own coolant lines. These were from ATP as well. I'm going to use this for the front line and keep the hardpipe in the back. It's called a 14mm barbed banjo for those interested.

I went and had some vinyl cut for the valve cover and such.

I got the coolant line banjo bolts today, these connect to 3/8" hose and are nice for building your own coolant lines. These were from ATP as well. I'm going to use this for the front line and keep the hardpipe in the back. It's called a 14mm barbed banjo for those interested.

I went and had some vinyl cut for the valve cover and such.

Last edited by jid2; Oct 30, 2008 at 09:55 PM.
Seems you have come along way man! Grats! That tank theme is SICK!
You've also removed all the guilt i felt about not documenting my build for the community any better than i have. (Basically not at all)
I had the same oil squirter issue. I just bent mine and it was fine. (Ross pistons)
The socket i got to remove the wheel nuts worked perfectly for the balance shaft bearings. I got lucky there.
I'm up in the air about what to do about blocking the non oil pump B-shaft hole. I'm considering just cutting the original shaft right behind the first bearing and welding it to the bearing. I know some people use a freeze plug but i don't like the idea of having something press fit into something else press fit. I would also be scared of that plug falling into the motor. I know it's unlikely buuut.
Actuially after thinking a few more minutes... the bearing material is non ferris so i probably can't weld the balance shaft to it... damn... Where did you get your plug?
You've also removed all the guilt i felt about not documenting my build for the community any better than i have. (Basically not at all)
I had the same oil squirter issue. I just bent mine and it was fine. (Ross pistons)
The socket i got to remove the wheel nuts worked perfectly for the balance shaft bearings. I got lucky there.
I'm up in the air about what to do about blocking the non oil pump B-shaft hole. I'm considering just cutting the original shaft right behind the first bearing and welding it to the bearing. I know some people use a freeze plug but i don't like the idea of having something press fit into something else press fit. I would also be scared of that plug falling into the motor. I know it's unlikely buuut.
Actuially after thinking a few more minutes... the bearing material is non ferris so i probably can't weld the balance shaft to it... damn... Where did you get your plug?
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iTrader: (62)
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Seems you have come along way man! Grats! That tank theme is SICK!
You've also removed all the guilt i felt about not documenting my build for the community any better than i have. (Basically not at all)
I had the same oil squirter issue. I just bent mine and it was fine. (Ross pistons)
The socket i got to remove the wheel nuts worked perfectly for the balance shaft bearings. I got lucky there.
I'm up in the air about what to do about blocking the non oil pump B-shaft hole. I'm considering just cutting the original shaft right behind the first bearing and welding it to the bearing. I know some people use a freeze plug but i don't like the idea of having something press fit into something else press fit. I would also be scared of that plug falling into the motor. I know it's unlikely buuut.
Actuially after thinking a few more minutes... the bearing material is non ferris so i probably can't weld the balance shaft to it... damn... Where did you get your plug?
You've also removed all the guilt i felt about not documenting my build for the community any better than i have. (Basically not at all)
I had the same oil squirter issue. I just bent mine and it was fine. (Ross pistons)
The socket i got to remove the wheel nuts worked perfectly for the balance shaft bearings. I got lucky there.
I'm up in the air about what to do about blocking the non oil pump B-shaft hole. I'm considering just cutting the original shaft right behind the first bearing and welding it to the bearing. I know some people use a freeze plug but i don't like the idea of having something press fit into something else press fit. I would also be scared of that plug falling into the motor. I know it's unlikely buuut.
Actuially after thinking a few more minutes... the bearing material is non ferris so i probably can't weld the balance shaft to it... damn... Where did you get your plug?
MD103722 - Front Balance shaft bearing
MD040597 - Rear Balance shaft bearing
MD092785 - Balance shaft cap
MD098626 - Balance shaft stub
MD128107 - Balance shaft spacer
Mine is not a freeze plug, it's something else. It's rubber coated and has a flange to stop it from falling into the motor! It's Mitsubishi part number MD092785 - Balance shaft cap I got it from Russel at mitsubishiparts.net. Credit goes to dryad001 for making a thread that listed all the parts required:
MD103722 - Front Balance shaft bearing
MD040597 - Rear Balance shaft bearing
MD092785 - Balance shaft cap
MD098626 - Balance shaft stub
MD128107 - Balance shaft spacer
MD103722 - Front Balance shaft bearing
MD040597 - Rear Balance shaft bearing
MD092785 - Balance shaft cap
MD098626 - Balance shaft stub
MD128107 - Balance shaft spacer
Cool man thanks! One less thing to worry about. I already spent the money on the AMS kit but it came with a freeze plug and i got the wrong size which isn't a big deal and your part looks much better.
Jared, really frivolous concern here:
The vinyl on the valve cover looks cool, but I would be conerned about how it is going to look after it's been subjected to the heat that's going to be right there. Ot maybe burnt vinyl is going to look tough and match the tank theme beter?
The vinyl on the valve cover looks cool, but I would be conerned about how it is going to look after it's been subjected to the heat that's going to be right there. Ot maybe burnt vinyl is going to look tough and match the tank theme beter?
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I'm sore today, lots of wrenching, pushing and pulling to get everything back in place.
Shields back on the block.

Clutch on.

Nice little trick to pop out the plug that allows the clutch fork to be removed.

Engine supported at a good height to make the transmission mate back up.

Dropping the engine in place. This took a bunch of adjusting, up - down - left - right etc.

Trying to get things to mate back up to the transfer case. I ended up crawling under the car (which was barely possible) and guiding it in from below.

Bolting up various motor mounts.

Officially back in.

Now I just need to hook-up all the hoses and wiring again and then fab a few pieces of piping here and there.
Shields back on the block.

Clutch on.

Nice little trick to pop out the plug that allows the clutch fork to be removed.

Engine supported at a good height to make the transmission mate back up.

Dropping the engine in place. This took a bunch of adjusting, up - down - left - right etc.

Trying to get things to mate back up to the transfer case. I ended up crawling under the car (which was barely possible) and guiding it in from below.

Bolting up various motor mounts.

Officially back in.

Now I just need to hook-up all the hoses and wiring again and then fab a few pieces of piping here and there.
Last edited by jid2; Nov 2, 2008 at 09:08 AM.




