2.3L GT3076Build
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
It had a good idle when it was cold, but once warmed up it would die. My first trip was across town to go hang out at a local dyno day, I think it died 3 times on the way there. But JohnBradley helped me with some idle setting in the stepper lookup table and idle control valve and now the car is idling great again - it hasn't died or come close.
I've got 20 miles on it so I'll change the oil. I plan on following the AMS new engine oil changing plan of 20, 500, 1500.
I've got some little exhaust rattles and shakes, I'm going to try and sort those out.
I've also got the "Knock CEL" mod on my ECU and am getting knock, real or false, in the 3K RPM range at part throttle, which is the only throttle it has seen so far. I did some logs yesterday I just need to go and review them now.
I'll keep the thread updated as I go through break-in and get started with real tuning and then a few dyno pulls, it's nice to have the dyno 5 mins away.
I've got 20 miles on it so I'll change the oil. I plan on following the AMS new engine oil changing plan of 20, 500, 1500.
I've got some little exhaust rattles and shakes, I'm going to try and sort those out.
I've also got the "Knock CEL" mod on my ECU and am getting knock, real or false, in the 3K RPM range at part throttle, which is the only throttle it has seen so far. I did some logs yesterday I just need to go and review them now.
I'll keep the thread updated as I go through break-in and get started with real tuning and then a few dyno pulls, it's nice to have the dyno 5 mins away.
Last edited by jid2; Nov 23, 2008 at 09:22 AM.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Changed the oil after 25 miles, it was clean as a whistle - no metal to be found.
I'm going to put some more miles on it and do some work to try and understand the 3K RPM knock I'm seeing. Pretty sure it's false knock. I'm going to build an electronic "det can" system to record the audio from the engine unto my computer to review with datalog files.
Anyone who does not look in the ECUflash area doesn't know about all the cool stuff that is being worked on for the stock ECU. The understanding of Stock ECU Knock control made a major break through today. It's looking like all the guys with built motors seeing false knock are going to be able to re-characterize their baseline engine noise. That will allow for the knock control to be valid again and offer protection in all the RPM ranges and loads even with a no balance shaft built motor. I'll be working on using some of these new maps very soon...
I'm going to put some more miles on it and do some work to try and understand the 3K RPM knock I'm seeing. Pretty sure it's false knock. I'm going to build an electronic "det can" system to record the audio from the engine unto my computer to review with datalog files.
Anyone who does not look in the ECUflash area doesn't know about all the cool stuff that is being worked on for the stock ECU. The understanding of Stock ECU Knock control made a major break through today. It's looking like all the guys with built motors seeing false knock are going to be able to re-characterize their baseline engine noise. That will allow for the knock control to be valid again and offer protection in all the RPM ranges and loads even with a no balance shaft built motor. I'll be working on using some of these new maps very soon...
dude, seriously... you are the only thread that i repost post into this thread... your car with that set-up seriously is not going to be a car anymore. your going to eat just about everything on the street. Good **** and good luck to you bro!!!
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Big CRAPPY discovery today. I'm leaking coolant. After looking around I've come to the conclusion that it is the threaded plug that is hidden on the end of the block where the transmission mounts. Great...
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
Big CRAPPY discovery today. I'm leaking coolant. After looking around I've come to the conclusion that it is the threaded plug that is hidden on the end of the block where the transmission mounts. Great...
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
Big CRAPPY discovery today. I'm leaking coolant. After looking around I've come to the conclusion that it is the threaded plug that is hidden on the end of the block where the transmission mounts. Great...
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
Jared, that sucks yo!
Hope you figure it out.Big CRAPPY discovery today. I'm leaking coolant. After looking around I've come to the conclusion that it is the threaded plug that is hidden on the end of the block where the transmission mounts. Great...
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
I was a little worried about it when I put it in, the allen key was a little worn and it made getting it really tight a bit of a problem.
So now it looks like I'll have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel to fix this. I'm bitter.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I'm going to keep playing with ECU stuff and the false knock until Christmas break when I have 2 weeks off. I'll pull the transmission then and fix the leak. So I won't be doing any real driving until after I fix the leak.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
False Knock = Dominated.
The Stock ECU has always been much more sophisticated than the aftermarket ones as OEM's have MUCH larger budgets for development. And now some of the software engineer guys are really unlocking the more advanced stuff inside the stock ECU; from gear dependent 3D boost control, multiple tuning maps, full control of OBDII test functions and error codes (turning them off for good), and now being able to adjust/tune an extremely complex knock control system.
The Knock Control maps that were found last week have fixed my false knock as well as some others who have been plagued by it.
EcuFlash area of the forum
The Stock ECU has always been much more sophisticated than the aftermarket ones as OEM's have MUCH larger budgets for development. And now some of the software engineer guys are really unlocking the more advanced stuff inside the stock ECU; from gear dependent 3D boost control, multiple tuning maps, full control of OBDII test functions and error codes (turning them off for good), and now being able to adjust/tune an extremely complex knock control system.
The Knock Control maps that were found last week have fixed my false knock as well as some others who have been plagued by it.
EcuFlash area of the forum
Last edited by jid2; Dec 1, 2008 at 06:40 PM.






