2.3L GT3076Build
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I measured my piston-to-wall clearance yesterday with my ghetto calipers and snap gauge at home and came up with .001". I had instructed the machine shop to bore to .0025" clearance and expected them to measure the pistons first to get the required bore.
So I'm bringing home some better tools to remeasure. I'm really hoping that I don't come to the conclusion that my clearance is .0010" because I'll have to take the block back to the machine shop. Then explain that they got the bore wrong, listen to them try and tell me why it's right. blah blah blah.
So I'm bringing home some better tools to remeasure. I'm really hoping that I don't come to the conclusion that my clearance is .0010" because I'll have to take the block back to the machine shop. Then explain that they got the bore wrong, listen to them try and tell me why it's right. blah blah blah.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I remeasured the piston-to-wall clearance with proper 0.0000" accurate digital calipers.
First I measured all the pistons, they were spot on the same diameter. I took that dimension = 3.3640" and then zeroed the calipers.
Next I took the snap gauge and fit it in the cylinder bore, wiggled it until I felt it was centered and locked it into place. Then I carefully extracted the snap gauge and measured it with the zeroed calipers...
Bingo 0.0025"
First I measured all the pistons, they were spot on the same diameter. I took that dimension = 3.3640" and then zeroed the calipers.
Next I took the snap gauge and fit it in the cylinder bore, wiggled it until I felt it was centered and locked it into place. Then I carefully extracted the snap gauge and measured it with the zeroed calipers...
Bingo 0.0025"
Last edited by jid2; Sep 30, 2008 at 08:00 AM.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I've got so many other things going on that I only work on it a couple hours during the week, in the evenings. And then for maybe 5 or 6 hours on the weekends. Which is a slower pace than I'd like, but what can you do.
I'm ordering the bearings, cap and parts for the balance shaft elimination to go along with my turned down shaft., some new freeze plugs, new deck pins and maybe new oil pump gears. Anyone want to convince me why I NEED new oil pump internals?
I'll be checking the rod-to-crank clearances tonight, and maybe file the rings to fit. I need to spend a couple of days degreasing all of the external engine components before I put them back on as well.
Last edited by jid2; Sep 30, 2008 at 01:16 PM.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Checked the piston pin to rod fit - they were perfect, an absolutely no wiggle slip fit.

Installed the rods and bearings on the crank one at a time and used plastigage to check the clearance. Everything came up a perfect .0020" sweet.


Next up is the big degreasing effort. I'll get to filing the piston rings this weekend.

Installed the rods and bearings on the crank one at a time and used plastigage to check the clearance. Everything came up a perfect .0020" sweet.


Next up is the big degreasing effort. I'll get to filing the piston rings this weekend.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
So I have all the balance shaft bearings, freeze plugs, and deck pins on order... And I just ordered the following:
Extremepsi (good for piecing stuff together and always in stock)
- 2.5" Aluminum mandrel bends ( 180 and 90) to fab a lower IC pipe.
- 2.5" silicone hump couplers for IC pipes
- Stiffer wastegate spring, mine came with a 5lb, so I'm adding a 10 lb for a total of 15lbs.
- 15 ft of silicone vacuum hose for wastegate and BOV
JEGS
- 12 inch reversible Slim-Line Fan
I still need:
- Hardware for just about every flanged joint
- 1.5" SS tubing for dump tube
- SS tubing to fab stupid right angle radiator hose
- OR new radiator.
- Better IC, my stocker is not feelin' the GT3076, or so it tells me. This may wait til after the cars running.
Extremepsi (good for piecing stuff together and always in stock)
- 2.5" Aluminum mandrel bends ( 180 and 90) to fab a lower IC pipe.
- 2.5" silicone hump couplers for IC pipes
- Stiffer wastegate spring, mine came with a 5lb, so I'm adding a 10 lb for a total of 15lbs.
- 15 ft of silicone vacuum hose for wastegate and BOV
JEGS
- 12 inch reversible Slim-Line Fan
I still need:
- Hardware for just about every flanged joint
- 1.5" SS tubing for dump tube
- SS tubing to fab stupid right angle radiator hose
- OR new radiator.
- Better IC, my stocker is not feelin' the GT3076, or so it tells me. This may wait til after the cars running.
Wow, you should be proud bro! Doing all this by yourself and then some! I cant wait to see the final results!
I started to do the same with my GSX, Took out the motor, disassembled, sent out the block for machine work. ETC ETC. But I ended up selling the shell for some good cash and decided to do my Evo. But I let someone else do it since I still owe another 2 years on it... LOL
I too LOVE Extremepsi! I got almost ALL my parts for my GSX through them. Fast shipping, low prices, and always in stock! Plus they were very polite on the phone.
Good luck with the rest of the build! You should call up CBRD to get their super slim radiator and give a ring to ETS for a sweet IC setup!
Dan
I started to do the same with my GSX, Took out the motor, disassembled, sent out the block for machine work. ETC ETC. But I ended up selling the shell for some good cash and decided to do my Evo. But I let someone else do it since I still owe another 2 years on it... LOL
I too LOVE Extremepsi! I got almost ALL my parts for my GSX through them. Fast shipping, low prices, and always in stock! Plus they were very polite on the phone.
Good luck with the rest of the build! You should call up CBRD to get their super slim radiator and give a ring to ETS for a sweet IC setup!
Dan



