i used the copper spray on the OEM (new) gasket with the regular ARP studs on my friends Evo. Has been running 25 psi for 2 years daily without fault.

 

You are basing your weight requirement on the power/weight ratio? what class are you looking at? The cage should be fun to build.

that sucks about the leaky gasket, hopefully your gasket replacement goes smoothly

 

I looked through a couple classes in NASA and SCCA where the EVO is homoligated already. Most classes require it to run around 3200 lbs, and any car above 3000 lbs needs a 1.75" cage.

Yeah I hope the gasket re-do goes smooth as well

 

Well, you could also just turn the boost down, save the motor and the weight. Plus at that point you'll be able to tune it to xxx hp and have massivly more torque.

 

I don't actually plan on racing the car. But I do want a cage for safety on track days. So it just makes sense to build the cage to actual requirements instead of just throwing something together.

 

Started the winterization process this past weekend. Ran the car onto the gas light and put 1/2 a tank of pump gas in it - that way it doesn't sit all winter with E85. Pulled off the race tires, the splitter, 2 piece rotors and race pads. I found that I had corded a tire - inside of one of the fronts. Most likely a result of the previous outside wear from the guy I bought them from. I successfully got one summer of use from them, and for $200 that's OK in my book.

Looking to grab some scrubbed R888's for the next set of tires. The BFG R1's got slippery and I think they are much more sensitive to sitting around and total heat cycles. I'm too cheap to buy brand new tires and I don't think used R1's are a great choice unless you know they are fresh, at least based on my experinece with them. I think the R888's will be better for my type of use. Not to mention the R888's still give the driver some feedback. The R1's were very much like a true slick - no noise or complaints, even well past the limit; so in the wrong hands (novice) they can get you in trouble.

So far the list looks like this:

- Replace headgasket, use L19 studs

- New to me used R888's... still trying to pick between 265 and 275. The 265 BFG's were already rubbing.

- Finish GT wing

- Rear Diffuser

- New rear rotors

- Roll cage

- 65mm throttle body while I'm in there (maybe - if I find a couple hundred bucks)......

 

Just buy a Magnus cast Jared...dont mess with a 65mm TB...seriously...

 

L19 studs eh... Any reason for using them over just some ARP headstuds..

 

Why the heck haven't I subscribed to this yet? ::CLICK::

This is one of my fav threads on here. Jid, for the most part everyone has nothing but good things to say. This has to be one of the best builds on here. I read a comment on here that kinda pissed me off, but hey, THE INTERNET IS FOR SERIOUS BUSINESS.... It was somewhere along the lines of them saying the quality of your work stinks because of the set backs and problems you've had. They have no right to pass judgement when their vehicles valve cover hasen't even been removed. A weekend warrior mechanic who has a full time job, wife, child, and mortgage. Its a damn miracle your car is where its at now and it was all done in your garage on the floor! Keep goin at it man. I can't wait to see pics of the wing. Who the f*ck just decides to go and build their own GT wing? Uhhhhhh jid2 does. That's going to be some awesomeness!

-Eric

 

Does English Racing still stand by their testing that the Magnus has zero low end losses?

 

The L19's are ARP's. But they are able to be set at a higher torque value without hitting the yield point. So you can put them at 90 ft-lb and maintain margin with respect to the yield point. Standard ARP's should be run around 70 ft-lbs I believe, and lots of people cheat and run them at 85, which is basically at the yield point.

R/TErnie made a good post in another thread about this topic showing this chart. You want to torque right up to the edge of yield, and stay in the elastic area of the curve.



I believe English still has shown very little if any low end losses with the Magnus cast, they have put it on lots of cars now. But I would see major high-end losses in my wallet to buy one. I see my throttle body as the restriction point now (and they are only a few hundred bucks) - but it will have to wait until ALL of the other stuff is done. My car has more than enough power now to get me in trouble at the track.

Epix - thanks for the props, it's been fun in the garage most of the time. Baby number two is scheduled to arrive in January, so work this winter will happen at a slower pace I think.

 

Out of curiousity, how are these L19's torque specs specified?

 

I'm not sure yet, they arrive tomorrow. They probably say use a stretch gauge for best results, and then give a torque spec based on using ARP moly lubrication as the next alternative. I'll post what comes in the box.

 

dam dude, this is a sick build thread
i dont even have an evo but i like comin to these forums cuz more people know what there talking about lol

Keep up the awesome work, oh and have u had any problems with that paint on ur valve cover yet? im surprised it hasnt started burning off from the heat of the turbo mani..

 

I would of went with a different clutch, but good luck with everything