MAP Stage 2 LR 2.4L Build
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oh, and since I'm all about spool/torque, and since I couldn't stand the idea of not going T3, AND since I hate stock frame turbos, I bought a Cast T3 kit with Bushur O2 housing and Dump tube.
I'll be running an HTA 3582 (with a .63 housing) and have a goal to hit full boost by 4000 RPMs on the 2.4L. The big stock frames are far too laggy without the punch up top that I'd like to have.
Keep in mind this setup probably won't go on until next Winter, I still want to be prepared
.
I may have Curt Brown work his magic on this manifold as well. We'll see.
I'll be running an HTA 3582 (with a .63 housing) and have a goal to hit full boost by 4000 RPMs on the 2.4L. The big stock frames are far too laggy without the punch up top that I'd like to have.
Keep in mind this setup probably won't go on until next Winter, I still want to be prepared
.I may have Curt Brown work his magic on this manifold as well. We'll see.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
I got my other NT03s back from their refinish! Now they all look brand new.
Modified my Evo VI Radiator to work with an VIII/IX fan, so if one goes in the future it will be easily replaceable.
The tuck is done!! I'm just waiting on loom. Here are a few teasers with just the wrap, no loom.
Mounted the catch can and made a little bracket for my Turbo Oil Feed Line so it sits nice and snug. FP tells you to route it under the front of the car, but that just seemed far too risky to me, as it's fully exposed to road debris and rocks.... I'd rather protect that line.
Now all I'm waiting on to finish the car is an 02 Dump....It's always thing after thing. Every little thing is buttoned up and ready to go!!
Modified my Evo VI Radiator to work with an VIII/IX fan, so if one goes in the future it will be easily replaceable.
The tuck is done!! I'm just waiting on loom. Here are a few teasers with just the wrap, no loom.
Mounted the catch can and made a little bracket for my Turbo Oil Feed Line so it sits nice and snug. FP tells you to route it under the front of the car, but that just seemed far too risky to me, as it's fully exposed to road debris and rocks.... I'd rather protect that line.
Now all I'm waiting on to finish the car is an 02 Dump....It's always thing after thing. Every little thing is buttoned up and ready to go!!
Last edited by Blue91lx; Jun 10, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
dude, come on, do you really think your the first person to use a 4g64 belt and discover that it times perfectly. It doesn't, your timings off and your in the wrong dowels on the came gears...
this has even been discussed here before:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-marks-2.html
listen to freddie in your other thread...
If you still don't believe it, degree your cam and see where your actually at based off of measurements of the cam profile not the markings. It WILL be off...
this has even been discussed here before:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-marks-2.html
listen to freddie in your other thread...
If you still don't believe it, degree your cam and see where your actually at based off of measurements of the cam profile not the markings. It WILL be off...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
dude, come on, do you really think your the first person to use a 4g64 belt and discover that it times perfectly. It doesn't, your timings off and your in the wrong dowels on the came gears...
this has even been discussed here before:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-marks-2.html
listen to freddie in your other thread...
If you still don't believe it, degree your cam and see where your actually at based off of measurements of the cam profile not the markings. It WILL be off...
this has even been discussed here before:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-marks-2.html
listen to freddie in your other thread...
If you still don't believe it, degree your cam and see where your actually at based off of measurements of the cam profile not the markings. It WILL be off...
I did this on cam gears with only an Evo dowel pin and the results were the same.
I can't get my timing to be advanced a half tooth...unless you purposely change it from the beginning.
The timing with a 4g64 belt on a 2.4 lines up as it would w a 63 belt on a 2.0 it's fact it's been done over and over again on multiple motors to the same effect
Logically thinking if you turn your cams bak one tooth and then turn your crank back one tooth everything must stay in sync from that point on yes? Yes...
Thus when you go to tdc on the crank w a 63 belt you are off half a tooth due to 6mm of deck height. Now go measure the distance from tooth to tooth on a belt it's in the realm of 11 mm therefore 6mm of that is taken from the deck leaving you off by 5mm or about half a tooth which is why you need to degree the cams.
W a 64 belt the 6mm from the deck + the left over ~5mm is made up for in the extra one tooth thus leaving you with as close to perfect timing as one can get (same as timing a 2.0 w a 63 belt) varies a degree or two depending on how much was cut from you head and block etc
Logically thinking if you turn your cams bak one tooth and then turn your crank back one tooth everything must stay in sync from that point on yes? Yes...
Thus when you go to tdc on the crank w a 63 belt you are off half a tooth due to 6mm of deck height. Now go measure the distance from tooth to tooth on a belt it's in the realm of 11 mm therefore 6mm of that is taken from the deck leaving you off by 5mm or about half a tooth which is why you need to degree the cams.
W a 64 belt the 6mm from the deck + the left over ~5mm is made up for in the extra one tooth thus leaving you with as close to perfect timing as one can get (same as timing a 2.0 w a 63 belt) varies a degree or two depending on how much was cut from you head and block etc
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
And we have a final consensus!!!
sure,
the timing changes when you move head up or down, move head up and cam gears rotate right. move head down (as in head shave) and gears rotate left.
tall 2.4 block raises head by 6mm. this will rotate gears by 3.75 degrees.
the gears rotate because belt tooth spacing/length does not change.
BELT LENGTH DOES NOT CHANGE TIMING. it only determines how much slack you have on the tensioner side . the distance from gear to gear remains a fixed constant.
dont know how else to explain it. I assure you I am correct. only way longer belt would change the timing is if you rotated the gears 1 full tooth during install. and you can do that with 63 belt!
the timing changes when you move head up or down, move head up and cam gears rotate right. move head down (as in head shave) and gears rotate left.
tall 2.4 block raises head by 6mm. this will rotate gears by 3.75 degrees.
the gears rotate because belt tooth spacing/length does not change.
BELT LENGTH DOES NOT CHANGE TIMING. it only determines how much slack you have on the tensioner side . the distance from gear to gear remains a fixed constant.
dont know how else to explain it. I assure you I am correct. only way longer belt would change the timing is if you rotated the gears 1 full tooth during install. and you can do that with 63 belt!
Last edited by Blue91lx; Jun 12, 2012 at 08:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Today I added up everything I bought since I got the car last August and it was $12,229.86. That's not including everything I sold off the car.
Not nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Not nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Haha exactly. That's literally every single part I've purchased, plus up-keep since last August for what once was a piece of junk car. I thought it'd be closer to $20K to be honest.