MAP Stage 2 LR 2.4L Build
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
I know, the heat is on
.
I did some monotonous work today, like normal.
Got my Ti Exhaust tip fitted/riveted on after I picked up some stainless rivets. This is an eBay exhaust tip, and honestly, I could not have asked for better fitment. It fit so snug on the end of the muffler a rivet was barely necessary, and I only put one in for good measure. Great buy for $60 or whatever it was.



I didn't like the chinsey stainless line I had for my fuel line so I picked up some Earls braided line and swapped over the fittings. This is the line I'll be running for my catch can stuff as well.


Got my UICP back from Jim @JMFab. He fabbed me up a lower piece to work with the straight end tanks on my Nisei, which was a huge help. My catch can also interferes with the first BOV flange, so I had him make a new flange closer towards the bend. We figured that would be the best location. He is going to be out of the shop for a few weeks, so the old flange was just capped due to time and materials. When he's back I'll have a new elbow to the TB welded on to get rid of that old flange.

Got my fittings on and set up. I'm just waiting on the Earl's line and wiring loom to come in.
.I did some monotonous work today, like normal.
Got my Ti Exhaust tip fitted/riveted on after I picked up some stainless rivets. This is an eBay exhaust tip, and honestly, I could not have asked for better fitment. It fit so snug on the end of the muffler a rivet was barely necessary, and I only put one in for good measure. Great buy for $60 or whatever it was.



I didn't like the chinsey stainless line I had for my fuel line so I picked up some Earls braided line and swapped over the fittings. This is the line I'll be running for my catch can stuff as well.


Got my UICP back from Jim @JMFab. He fabbed me up a lower piece to work with the straight end tanks on my Nisei, which was a huge help. My catch can also interferes with the first BOV flange, so I had him make a new flange closer towards the bend. We figured that would be the best location. He is going to be out of the shop for a few weeks, so the old flange was just capped due to time and materials. When he's back I'll have a new elbow to the TB welded on to get rid of that old flange.

Got my fittings on and set up. I'm just waiting on the Earl's line and wiring loom to come in.
Subscribed
I am doing a 2.4 build in my car currently (Started at the beginning of the month) and am hoping to have mine done in the next few weeks
I just went through your whole thready and got some good ideas on doing some not what I was originally planing ideas from you
I was never thinking of doing a wire tuck, but now I think I will actually do one
(Just over the winter when I can spend more time on it) and the Water line from your radiator to T-stat
I like that a lot and show my fabricator friend and he liked it as well. He will be welding it for me since I suck at Aluminum welding
I can't wait to see what your car can do with the stock turbo and how your 2.4 will sound and perform
I just went through your whole thready and got some good ideas on doing some not what I was originally planing ideas from you
I was never thinking of doing a wire tuck, but now I think I will actually do one
(Just over the winter when I can spend more time on it) and the Water line from your radiator to T-stat
I like that a lot and show my fabricator friend and he liked it as well. He will be welding it for me since I suck at Aluminum welding
I can't wait to see what your car can do with the stock turbo and how your 2.4 will sound and perform
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Subscribed
I am doing a 2.4 build in my car currently (Started at the beginning of the month) and am hoping to have mine done in the next few weeks
I just went through your whole thready and got some good ideas on doing some not what I was originally planing ideas from you
I was never thinking of doing a wire tuck, but now I think I will actually do one
(Just over the winter when I can spend more time on it) and the Water line from your radiator to T-stat
I like that a lot and show my fabricator friend and he liked it as well. He will be welding it for me since I suck at Aluminum welding
I can't wait to see what your car can do with the stock turbo and how your 2.4 will sound and perform
I just went through your whole thready and got some good ideas on doing some not what I was originally planing ideas from you
I was never thinking of doing a wire tuck, but now I think I will actually do one
(Just over the winter when I can spend more time on it) and the Water line from your radiator to T-stat
I like that a lot and show my fabricator friend and he liked it as well. He will be welding it for me since I suck at Aluminum welding
I can't wait to see what your car can do with the stock turbo and how your 2.4 will sound and perform
. That turned into 6 months, so beware! I'm glad I could offer a few good ideas! I definitely think those few things really help clean up the engine bay. Honestly, the wire tuck was not hard at all as long as you can really concentrate for a few hours.
And, same here about the welding. One of my goals this summer is to buy a TIG and learn the ways. However, I know a ton of great welders around my area that are always quick to help me out. I used Vibrant -12AN weld bungs which are round which make for a cleaner look than some of the hex bungs out there (for the T-Stat stuff).
Good luck on your build!
I hoped to have mine done in a few weeks, too
. That turned into 6 months, so beware!
I'm glad I could offer a few good ideas! I definitely think those few things really help clean up the engine bay. Honestly, the wire tuck was not hard at all as long as you can really concentrate for a few hours.
And, same here about the welding. One of my goals this summer is to buy a TIG and learn the ways. However, I know a ton of great welders around my area that are always quick to help me out. I used Vibrant -12AN weld bungs which are round which make for a cleaner look than some of the hex bungs out there (for the T-Stat stuff).
Good luck on your build!
. That turned into 6 months, so beware! I'm glad I could offer a few good ideas! I definitely think those few things really help clean up the engine bay. Honestly, the wire tuck was not hard at all as long as you can really concentrate for a few hours.
And, same here about the welding. One of my goals this summer is to buy a TIG and learn the ways. However, I know a ton of great welders around my area that are always quick to help me out. I used Vibrant -12AN weld bungs which are round which make for a cleaner look than some of the hex bungs out there (for the T-Stat stuff).
Good luck on your build!

If I do have more time I will be doing more engine bay cleaning up like yours though
I hoped to have mine done in a few weeks, too
. That turned into 6 months, so beware!
I'm glad I could offer a few good ideas! I definitely think those few things really help clean up the engine bay. Honestly, the wire tuck was not hard at all as long as you can really concentrate for a few hours.
And, same here about the welding. One of my goals this summer is to buy a TIG and learn the ways. However, I know a ton of great welders around my area that are always quick to help me out. I used Vibrant -12AN weld bungs which are round which make for a cleaner look than some of the hex bungs out there (for the T-Stat stuff).
Good luck on your build!
. That turned into 6 months, so beware! I'm glad I could offer a few good ideas! I definitely think those few things really help clean up the engine bay. Honestly, the wire tuck was not hard at all as long as you can really concentrate for a few hours.
And, same here about the welding. One of my goals this summer is to buy a TIG and learn the ways. However, I know a ton of great welders around my area that are always quick to help me out. I used Vibrant -12AN weld bungs which are round which make for a cleaner look than some of the hex bungs out there (for the T-Stat stuff).
Good luck on your build!
220v - Bueller? Bueller?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
220V!
Pops is an energy **** and has OCD, so with that said, he said that he doesn't want a welder staying in his garage. However, if the washer-extension cord will work, you could come over and bring your ish if you needed a place to use it. The catch is that you just need to bring it back with you
.
Thanks, man!
I actually have two valve covers, both with different -10AN setups. The fittings on the purple VC are 1/2" NPT to -10AN. To use these you'll need to drill/tap your vc with an 11/64th bit and a 1/2" NPT tap, respectively. This way was a pain, and my VC cracked. I JB welded the crack (JB weld to Magnesium is the strength of a TIG weld), but I got a new VC and went a different route on the second one. I'm only using this one until I get the new one powdercoated.
The second VC, to prevent cracking again, I utilized -10AN again, but this time I used bulkhead fittings as seen here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670870/
In using these guys you just drill out the VC and the fitting slides through, sealed by the washer with a nut on the inside to keep the fitting in there.
Gah, thank you sir. I couldn't remember which way that went. Should be a quick fix.
Pops is an energy **** and has OCD, so with that said, he said that he doesn't want a welder staying in his garage. However, if the washer-extension cord will work, you could come over and bring your ish if you needed a place to use it. The catch is that you just need to bring it back with you
.I actually have two valve covers, both with different -10AN setups. The fittings on the purple VC are 1/2" NPT to -10AN. To use these you'll need to drill/tap your vc with an 11/64th bit and a 1/2" NPT tap, respectively. This way was a pain, and my VC cracked. I JB welded the crack (JB weld to Magnesium is the strength of a TIG weld), but I got a new VC and went a different route on the second one. I'm only using this one until I get the new one powdercoated.
The second VC, to prevent cracking again, I utilized -10AN again, but this time I used bulkhead fittings as seen here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670870/
In using these guys you just drill out the VC and the fitting slides through, sealed by the washer with a nut on the inside to keep the fitting in there.
Gah, thank you sir. I couldn't remember which way that went. Should be a quick fix.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Thanks! I am already past my one month goal to get it done, but most of that was waiting on parts. I got everything this week to at least get the engine to the machine shop to get done. Few other little things I am waiting on but nothing major that would stop me from getting it running so hopefully by the end of July as my new Goal 
If I do have more time I will be doing more engine bay cleaning up like yours though
Working extra hours when I can to fund the build so time is rare 

If I do have more time I will be doing more engine bay cleaning up like yours though

Thanks, man!
I actually have two valve covers, both with different -10AN setups. The fittings on the purple VC are 1/2" NPT to -10AN. To use these you'll need to drill/tap your vc with an 11/64th bit and a 1/2" NPT tap, respectively. This way was a pain, and my VC cracked. I JB welded the crack (JB weld to Magnesium is the strength of a TIG weld), but I got a new VC and went a different route on the second one. I'm only using this one until I get the new one powdercoated.
The second VC, to prevent cracking again, I utilized -10AN again, but this time I used bulkhead fittings as seen here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670870/
In using these guys you just drill out the VC and the fitting slides through, sealed by the washer with a nut on the inside to keep the fitting in there.
I actually have two valve covers, both with different -10AN setups. The fittings on the purple VC are 1/2" NPT to -10AN. To use these you'll need to drill/tap your vc with an 11/64th bit and a 1/2" NPT tap, respectively. This way was a pain, and my VC cracked. I JB welded the crack (JB weld to Magnesium is the strength of a TIG weld), but I got a new VC and went a different route on the second one. I'm only using this one until I get the new one powdercoated.
The second VC, to prevent cracking again, I utilized -10AN again, but this time I used bulkhead fittings as seen here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670870/
In using these guys you just drill out the VC and the fitting slides through, sealed by the washer with a nut on the inside to keep the fitting in there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
I haven't ditched the idea, however, it's been on the back burner. I'm actually going to a fitting place today to see if I can't get them to make me the fitting.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
I've been working on fitting my wheels and stripping the parts car the past few days.
However, I got the Nisei LICP and AMS turbo-back exhaust on. I cut the bracket off of the LICP as it was a pain to deal with and in my eyes, completely unnecessary.


Got the old studs out, and put the extended ARP studs in, along with some new (but rusty) rotors:


Test fitment of the wheels:

Got the tires. Went with a Nitto NT555 in a 265/35R18.

Next to a Dunlop 275/35:

Rolled the fenders:



Fitted the wheel:


I'm VERY happy with the tire size, the wheel size, and how it all came together. Just waiting on spacers and some braided line and I'll start her up and start breaking it in!
However, I got the Nisei LICP and AMS turbo-back exhaust on. I cut the bracket off of the LICP as it was a pain to deal with and in my eyes, completely unnecessary.


Got the old studs out, and put the extended ARP studs in, along with some new (but rusty) rotors:


Test fitment of the wheels:

Got the tires. Went with a Nitto NT555 in a 265/35R18.

Next to a Dunlop 275/35:

Rolled the fenders:



Fitted the wheel:


I'm VERY happy with the tire size, the wheel size, and how it all came together. Just waiting on spacers and some braided line and I'll start her up and start breaking it in!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA



