MAP Stage 2 LR 2.4L Build
I see what you're saying, IVGSR, and if I had a 2.0L I would never make the switch. However, I think the S3s (or Kelford 280s), will compliment the port work in the bowls and the 2.4L nicely, without a loss down low. If I see a 200 rpm loss in spool that's more than worth it for what could be 50hp up top at a higher power level.
I personally don't think that you would see that much in gain up top with out going to a much bigger turbo. I will be running a CNC ported head as well as I want the best flow in the motor as possible. I am taking it as far as to run 70mm id aluminum piping from the FMIC to keep the flow the same through my throttle body. I don't want it to be just 3" and then taper a bit, I want it all to flow.

My Goal is very similar. I was going to go with a FP Black, but have changed to doing a GTX3582R as my turbo of choice. I was originally going to go for 400+whp on 91oct and then 500whp+ on E85 on a stock frame turbo, but now with how I am trying to make everything as efficient as possible and now going with the CNC head, I believe moving those number to 450+whp on 91oct and closer to 600whp on E85 are very possible.
A friend locally just did 630whp on his Evo with I believe Q16 and I would also like to have a better number than his just to one up him so I will probably shoot for a 650+whp number just for the dyno
I know my motor, Turbo and Everything minus my pump are capable of closer to 700whp, but my last Evo at 450~whp was a lot of fun so this one with much more torque I think will be enough for my goals

I still have to agree with Mr Brunson and say stick with S2's since you have them and they will be good for what your goal it

I would like to say this though. I would personally like to see what the power curve difference would be between the S2 and something more aggressive at the same boost level and fuel to see if getting 20whp up top is worth losing 30whp down low
Not saying that is how it would actually be, but It could happen
Ask SvenDiesel for his before and after. He went from S2's to S3's on his car. He might of gained a little power but for the money you can put it somewhere else and get the same benefits and power.
If the 120* fitting doesn't work out, i used this with great success.

Its 150* and stainless steel, fitment was PERFECT and the hose just cleared under the coolant line 6'' down. This is all with a stock placement turbo, next oil change ill snap a picture. Been meaning to post this up for you for about a month now but couldn't find the package.

Its 150* and stainless steel, fitment was PERFECT and the hose just cleared under the coolant line 6'' down. This is all with a stock placement turbo, next oil change ill snap a picture. Been meaning to post this up for you for about a month now but couldn't find the package.
I ordered both the 120* and 150*, i don't think the 120 works at is shoots it into the turbo hotside. Its pretty jammed up in that area. Either way, 150* works and its stainless. Plus i wrapped the hose with heat wrap. If you see my show and shine thread you can see it poke out between the two turbo coolant lines. The 120* i ended up using on my intake right next to there.
Last edited by Honto; Jul 30, 2012 at 03:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
That is because of old technology and design. The new cams like the S2s spool identical to the S1s but make 25whp more. Spool is really realative to ramp rate.
Here is my car that was a back to back HKS cams to custom GSC. My GSCs have the same effective duration as a 288 cam
Notice spool is identical. Nothing was changed in this back to back but the cams. Spool really depends on the cam design. Also any stock motor car looking to make the best power and keep great spool should be running S2s.
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Here is my car that was a back to back HKS cams to custom GSC. My GSCs have the same effective duration as a 288 cam
Notice spool is identical. Nothing was changed in this back to back but the cams. Spool really depends on the cam design. Also any stock motor car looking to make the best power and keep great spool should be running S2s. [IMG]
[/IMG]2.4L's eat duration. From what I've seen, most will recommend a 280 when using a Black or bigger. My thoughts are that I'd like to get to my goal with ease in the future so I don't have to search for power. I'm a fan of up top power rather than a crazy torque hit and taper, so I really think these will be good for what I want to do in the future. If it comes down to it, we'll agree to disagree and I'll be happy with my big lopey cams that have too much lift for my intake ports.
You should definitely also measure pistons with a caliper at the top of the piston.....
I'll have Greg @ GSC drop some knowledge in here later. Just a FYI, we didn't go S3's on our 2.4 until 850whp. S2's will make power up until then, and still have good street manners and spool. Anyone that says to run s3's in a daily with a 2.4 clearly doesn't have a daily, with s3's, and a twin disk.
I been setting up peoples builds for about 7 years now JUST on EVO's almost 12 years now for other platforms. Not once, in those 7 years has someone with an EVO come back to me and say "why did you sell me this" lol. However the line "why did you let me buy this" when they don't take my recommendation has been typed out more times than I could remember.
I'm not Anti-S3 either, I recommended them to svendiesel (steven david) because he was trying to make 700hp out of a turbo that should only make 650 pushing it. Your goals are easily obtainable with a stock frame turbo and s2's. Put the money towards a stock frame turbo and a tubular manifold if you want that "top end".
I'll have Greg @ GSC drop some knowledge in here later. Just a FYI, we didn't go S3's on our 2.4 until 850whp. S2's will make power up until then, and still have good street manners and spool. Anyone that says to run s3's in a daily with a 2.4 clearly doesn't have a daily, with s3's, and a twin disk.
I been setting up peoples builds for about 7 years now JUST on EVO's almost 12 years now for other platforms. Not once, in those 7 years has someone with an EVO come back to me and say "why did you sell me this" lol. However the line "why did you let me buy this" when they don't take my recommendation has been typed out more times than I could remember.
I'm not Anti-S3 either, I recommended them to svendiesel (steven david) because he was trying to make 700hp out of a turbo that should only make 650 pushing it. Your goals are easily obtainable with a stock frame turbo and s2's. Put the money towards a stock frame turbo and a tubular manifold if you want that "top end".
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Welp, since I had to buy a head any plan of a turbo is faaaaar in the future, aka, when I'm done college, aka, I will have a million different options by the time I'm ready to buy one, aka, I can't even try to decide now
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I guess my question is how much did you lose with the MAP drag car down low once you made the switch? I know exactly what you're saying and I trust your opinion 100%, however, part of me wants to be the guy who tests it out just because I really don't care all that much if I do end up losing power down low.
.I guess my question is how much did you lose with the MAP drag car down low once you made the switch? I know exactly what you're saying and I trust your opinion 100%, however, part of me wants to be the guy who tests it out just because I really don't care all that much if I do end up losing power down low.
There is nothing your testing here, its been done. That is why I am suggesting the S2's as I have experience....
If you go with a stock frame turbo and it starts dying out at like 7,000 rpm's. What is the point of having a camshaft that is designed to make power 6,000 to 9,500 rpm's? You want to go with a camshaft that will make its most power from 3,500 (average stock frame turbo spool) to 8,500 (your average rev limit).
If you go with a stock frame turbo and it starts dying out at like 7,000 rpm's. What is the point of having a camshaft that is designed to make power 6,000 to 9,500 rpm's? You want to go with a camshaft that will make its most power from 3,500 (average stock frame turbo spool) to 8,500 (your average rev limit).
Sounds like a logical reason, my friend.
Take Levars build for an example. Me and him put together a good list, then he went out and read the forums and then came back to me and wanted to go bigger after we already discussed the EF3 was best for his goals. Traded in parts, went bigger then changed his whole setup and is back at an FP Red (EF3).
Listen to me, or I will kill you LOL! hahahaha.
Listen to me, or I will kill you LOL! hahahaha.




