MAP Stage 2 LR 2.4L Build
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Worked on the car a bit today.
First order of business: remove head.
Garage cat:
Castings knocked down:
Because I'm sick in the head I decided to re-do my harness.
Loom:
Awesome industrial electrical tape I got from a friend who works for Verizon. Just so happens to be PERFECT for harness work.
I was happy with how it came out:
First order of business: remove head.
Garage cat:
Castings knocked down:
Because I'm sick in the head I decided to re-do my harness.
Loom:
Awesome industrial electrical tape I got from a friend who works for Verizon. Just so happens to be PERFECT for harness work.
I was happy with how it came out:
Last edited by Blue91lx; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:03 PM.
the cross hatching is normal.. but that black spot i don't know.. that would concern me.
can you rub it off? on another note.. years ago (and its documented on this forum)
my br engine was going through oil left and right to the point it managed to burn 3-4 quarts of oil in a 800 mile trip causing it to spin a bearing.. so i have this pic of it when i had to tear it down 2 yrs ago with about 5k brutal miles on it.
issue turned out to be from pcv spitting oil in intake manifold + oil going up the turbo return line and burning off in the chra of the turbo. while it still burns oil, its no where near it was before.
-------------
on another note.. those wheels and tires look real good mounted on your car.
can you rub it off? on another note.. years ago (and its documented on this forum)
my br engine was going through oil left and right to the point it managed to burn 3-4 quarts of oil in a 800 mile trip causing it to spin a bearing.. so i have this pic of it when i had to tear it down 2 yrs ago with about 5k brutal miles on it.
issue turned out to be from pcv spitting oil in intake manifold + oil going up the turbo return line and burning off in the chra of the turbo. while it still burns oil, its no where near it was before.
-------------
on another note.. those wheels and tires look real good mounted on your car.
First, I respect you. Second, you're from PA, so that's worth extra points too.
BUT... I have a 2.4LR, S3's, had a twin disk (just recently went to a triple) and it is a DD. Maybe it kicks *** because I insisted on staying with the MAF, I dunno. The triple is easier to drive than the twin was as well, that seems odd. Before the S3's, I had Kelford 272's.
I have had both, they were on a daily car, and from experience, I would not consider going back to 272/S2's. The 272's spooled ridiculously fast, but the S3's breath wayyy better.
This is on a FP Black.
P.S. I'm ready for this build to be done and the subscription to stop being updated... Good Luck!
BUT... I have a 2.4LR, S3's, had a twin disk (just recently went to a triple) and it is a DD. Maybe it kicks *** because I insisted on staying with the MAF, I dunno. The triple is easier to drive than the twin was as well, that seems odd. Before the S3's, I had Kelford 272's.
I have had both, they were on a daily car, and from experience, I would not consider going back to 272/S2's. The 272's spooled ridiculously fast, but the S3's breath wayyy better.
This is on a FP Black.
P.S. I'm ready for this build to be done and the subscription to stop being updated... Good Luck!
i used to be able to murder my twin left and right.. if you try that on a triple it will get hot and try to play games with you if you rev to high on take off. the trick to taking off nice on a triple when its hot is just to lightly gas the car on take off.. the lower the rpm's the nicer it takes off and doesn't try to grab like a **** out of nowhere.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
It looks like excessive side loading. I'm going to send the picture to MAP I guess...600 miles.
Thank you, sir!
the cross hatching is normal.. but that black spot i don't know.. that would concern me.
can you rub it off? on another note.. years ago (and its documented on this forum)
my br engine was going through oil left and right to the point it managed to burn 3-4 quarts of oil in a 800 mile trip causing it to spin a bearing.. so i have this pic of it when i had to tear it down 2 yrs ago with about 5k brutal miles on it.
issue turned out to be from pcv spitting oil in intake manifold + oil going up the turbo return line and burning off in the chra of the turbo. while it still burns oil, its no where near it was before.
-------------
on another note.. those wheels and tires look real good mounted on your car.
can you rub it off? on another note.. years ago (and its documented on this forum)
my br engine was going through oil left and right to the point it managed to burn 3-4 quarts of oil in a 800 mile trip causing it to spin a bearing.. so i have this pic of it when i had to tear it down 2 yrs ago with about 5k brutal miles on it.
issue turned out to be from pcv spitting oil in intake manifold + oil going up the turbo return line and burning off in the chra of the turbo. while it still burns oil, its no where near it was before.
-------------
on another note.. those wheels and tires look real good mounted on your car.
Last edited by Blue91lx; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:03 PM.
no problem. ya i dont know.. let us know what map says. the s3 im gonna do a comparison vs kelfords on my car so if you dont get em in before me ill have some good info for you 
the kiggly HLA was a good investment, and maybe in future look into baffling the oil pan if you are making some crazy tq and the car pulls a lot of g's. it will keep the oil submerged in the pickup tube much better..
ive killed a turbo from not having enough oil at the pickup before.
the kiggly HLA was a good investment, and maybe in future look into baffling the oil pan if you are making some crazy tq and the car pulls a lot of g's. it will keep the oil submerged in the pickup tube much better..
ive killed a turbo from not having enough oil at the pickup before.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
no problem. ya i dont know.. let us know what map says. the s3 im gonna do a comparison vs kelfords on my car so if you dont get em in before me ill have some good info for you
the kiggly HLA was a good investment, and maybe in future look into baffling the oil pan if you are making some crazy tq and the car pulls a lot of g's. it will keep the oil submerged in the pickup tube much better..
ive killed a turbo from not having enough oil at the pickup before.
the kiggly HLA was a good investment, and maybe in future look into baffling the oil pan if you are making some crazy tq and the car pulls a lot of g's. it will keep the oil submerged in the pickup tube much better..
ive killed a turbo from not having enough oil at the pickup before.
Oh, and definitely. I felt that the HLA was a smart choice, and I'll definitely consider a baffled pan if I ever make ridiculous power.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Did my research. This wear, which is wear from the piston skirt, can apparently be caused by two things:
1) PTW Clearance is too tight
2) Bores are out of round (no torque plate)
If left untouched, this thing wouldn't have lasted very long..
Thank God I pulled the head.
1) PTW Clearance is too tight
2) Bores are out of round (no torque plate)
If left untouched, this thing wouldn't have lasted very long..
Thank God I pulled the head.
Did my research. This wear, which is wear from the piston skirt, can apparently be caused by two things:
1) PTW Clearance is too tight
2) Bores are out of round (no torque plate)
If left untouched, this thing wouldn't have lasted very long..
Thank God I pulled the head.
1) PTW Clearance is too tight
2) Bores are out of round (no torque plate)
If left untouched, this thing wouldn't have lasted very long..
Thank God I pulled the head.
For 600 miles that does not look heathy...
Harness looks good!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Thanks mang! No Raychem, but I'm very happy with the result.
And I about shat myself about the engine.
Here's a word from the builder to show that this wear is normal, I guess. Don't want people to get the wrong impression from MAP if there's not an issue:
"This wear pattern is very typical for the style of piston you have
in your engine. With your long rod configuration the piston skirts are very
short, which causes this type of wear as there in not as much support for
the skirt as there would be in a std. rod length engine. There is nothing
to be alarmed about and after seeing you broke it in per our instructions
you should have no problems with your engine. Let me know if you have any
other questions."
And I about shat myself about the engine.
Here's a word from the builder to show that this wear is normal, I guess. Don't want people to get the wrong impression from MAP if there's not an issue:
"This wear pattern is very typical for the style of piston you have
in your engine. With your long rod configuration the piston skirts are very
short, which causes this type of wear as there in not as much support for
the skirt as there would be in a std. rod length engine. There is nothing
to be alarmed about and after seeing you broke it in per our instructions
you should have no problems with your engine. Let me know if you have any
other questions."
the reason your triple clutch feels better then your twin in between shifting is because the triple takes longer to drop rpm (its heavier), therefore smoothens the shift.. you can make the rpm do the same with the twin as the triple tuning it.. so its not the clutch.. and also the triple is far more aggressive then the twin is when it comes to grabbing when it gets hot.
i used to be able to murder my twin left and right.. if you try that on a triple it will get hot and try to play games with you if you rev to high on take off. the trick to taking off nice on a triple when its hot is just to lightly gas the car on take off.. the lower the rpm's the nicer it takes off and doesn't try to grab like a **** out of nowhere.
i used to be able to murder my twin left and right.. if you try that on a triple it will get hot and try to play games with you if you rev to high on take off. the trick to taking off nice on a triple when its hot is just to lightly gas the car on take off.. the lower the rpm's the nicer it takes off and doesn't try to grab like a **** out of nowhere.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Philadelphia, PA
Haha Got the S3's like I thought you would 
Sorry about your motor and that is strange. My pistons looked better than that after 10+k on stock motor pushing 420whp
Ignore the missing pistons, rod and hole
Like the wire loom idea and I think I should do that when I do a new slimmed down harness
Sorry about your motor and that is strange. My pistons looked better than that after 10+k on stock motor pushing 420whp
Ignore the missing pistons, rod and hole
Like the wire loom idea and I think I should do that when I do a new slimmed down harness