Boltz.' Evo Build 2012. The Final Chapter.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,502
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From: St. Charles, IL
Where did you get the hose you used for the intake ducting?
I did something similar, but I used shop vac hose. I plan on making an air box as well at some point.
Your car looks really good! I know it can be a pain in the *** to work with the reflecto gold in regards to getting it to stick to certain items.
I did something similar, but I used shop vac hose. I plan on making an air box as well at some point.
Your car looks really good! I know it can be a pain in the *** to work with the reflecto gold in regards to getting it to stick to certain items.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, IL
Okay so I need some input from EvoM!
Please critique the functionality of my catch can setup. It has just been set up and is a rough model of what I want. I will figure out a way to make it look cleaner.
-OLD SETUP-
Sealed catch can between valve cover and intake. Problem - too much blow by causing a lot of exhaust smoke on a WOT pull.
-RECENT SETUP-
Hal's vented oil cap and stock valve cover fitting both with hoses on them routed to the ground. Problem - Losing too much oil out of vented oil cap. My guess is the immediate turn down on the line that was venting to atmosphere was letting a lot of oil drip down.
-NEW SETUP-
Take aluminum water bottle from kitchen. Drill holes in side. Take brass pipe fittings from lowes, teflon tape and install them into bottle. Pressure test. Mad leaks. Seal outside of bottle/pipe fittings with RTV. Paint Bottle Gloss Black. Cut down an 'L' bracket and worm clamp it to water bottle. Make mess of bottle, get it dusty then rinse it off and take a picture of it when it looks crappy. :P Install modified K&N breather filter on top of bottle. Wish I had fab skills and tools like Urness or Drinkwater. LOL.

Bolt water bottle to thermostat housing. Run a line off of the valve cover fitting to a 90* fitting (also from (b)Lowes) and run that directly to the bottle. Run line off of oil cap to a 90* fitting, point that upwards towards strut tower brace (to avoid the oil be able to drip down, I figured I would try to do what I could to point this line up), run that line across strut tower then down into the catch can.

-The catch can has no media/element in it. Should I order some stainless steel wool to stuff it?
-It looks ghetto right now, I know.
-I have a drain valve solution, but it is so easy to take out, I can just pull it and drain it manually.

Thoughts?
Please critique the functionality of my catch can setup. It has just been set up and is a rough model of what I want. I will figure out a way to make it look cleaner.
-OLD SETUP-
Sealed catch can between valve cover and intake. Problem - too much blow by causing a lot of exhaust smoke on a WOT pull.
-RECENT SETUP-
Hal's vented oil cap and stock valve cover fitting both with hoses on them routed to the ground. Problem - Losing too much oil out of vented oil cap. My guess is the immediate turn down on the line that was venting to atmosphere was letting a lot of oil drip down.
-NEW SETUP-
Take aluminum water bottle from kitchen. Drill holes in side. Take brass pipe fittings from lowes, teflon tape and install them into bottle. Pressure test. Mad leaks. Seal outside of bottle/pipe fittings with RTV. Paint Bottle Gloss Black. Cut down an 'L' bracket and worm clamp it to water bottle. Make mess of bottle, get it dusty then rinse it off and take a picture of it when it looks crappy. :P Install modified K&N breather filter on top of bottle. Wish I had fab skills and tools like Urness or Drinkwater. LOL.

Bolt water bottle to thermostat housing. Run a line off of the valve cover fitting to a 90* fitting (also from (b)Lowes) and run that directly to the bottle. Run line off of oil cap to a 90* fitting, point that upwards towards strut tower brace (to avoid the oil be able to drip down, I figured I would try to do what I could to point this line up), run that line across strut tower then down into the catch can.

-The catch can has no media/element in it. Should I order some stainless steel wool to stuff it?
-It looks ghetto right now, I know.
-I have a drain valve solution, but it is so easy to take out, I can just pull it and drain it manually.

Thoughts?
Last edited by Boltz.; Oct 6, 2012 at 10:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, IL
I also worked a bit yesterday on the air intake.
Here is how it looked before

What I did was I added an 'end' to the ducting so that it wasn't just a cut edge. I used some 3" to 2" intake scoops and mounted them at the ends of the duct. I realize that it is possible that this could give the incoming air a chance to lose some velocity by increasing the area but it also directs itself to a bigger surface area of the air filter..... One thing I am undecided on is whether I should put the ducts directly on the filter, so that some of the energy/velocity of the air is used to push past the filter media, trying to 'force feed' the intake. OR, just point it in the direction of the air filter?
I then made new brackets for my slim fan. This allowed me to bolt the stock snorkel back on to guide more air into the intake box. One I had the snorkel back on, I wanted to see how the top of the stock airbox would look and whether or not it would be on top of the filter. I had to clearance the corner of it so I could pass the BOV.






Not finished work so any input is appreciated.
Thanks.
Here is how it looked before

What I did was I added an 'end' to the ducting so that it wasn't just a cut edge. I used some 3" to 2" intake scoops and mounted them at the ends of the duct. I realize that it is possible that this could give the incoming air a chance to lose some velocity by increasing the area but it also directs itself to a bigger surface area of the air filter..... One thing I am undecided on is whether I should put the ducts directly on the filter, so that some of the energy/velocity of the air is used to push past the filter media, trying to 'force feed' the intake. OR, just point it in the direction of the air filter?
I then made new brackets for my slim fan. This allowed me to bolt the stock snorkel back on to guide more air into the intake box. One I had the snorkel back on, I wanted to see how the top of the stock airbox would look and whether or not it would be on top of the filter. I had to clearance the corner of it so I could pass the BOV.






Not finished work so any input is appreciated.
Thanks.
Last edited by Boltz.; Oct 6, 2012 at 10:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, IL
not much for baffling in it. i would just get this. its cheap, baffled and they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...star+catch+can
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...star+catch+can
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...56224&type=pla
IMO the tank itself (when installed) looks just as good as a fabricated alum can, just is missing the baffling and I was feeling crafty.
So don't jam a few of these in the can?
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...56224&type=pla
IMO the tank itself (when installed) looks just as good as a fabricated alum can, just is missing the baffling and I was feeling crafty.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...56224&type=pla
IMO the tank itself (when installed) looks just as good as a fabricated alum can, just is missing the baffling and I was feeling crafty.

Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, IL
Glad I stumbled into this thread an amazing amount of good stuff in here. Above all else I love the philosophy behind your build and that mindset really shows in the end result. I'm building my X with a very similar philosophy. Props to you man the car is sick.




Sometimes when trying to save money, you end up making things ultimately more expensive.




