evo 8 2.2L efr 8374 build!
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I am considering a BR pan on my 2.4 rebuild. It is a good price and appears to work. The AMS/Moroso pan costs too much considering the fitment issues. At that price point I would want it to be perfect fitment.I would also chose a bigger sprung hub clutch like a os Giken or HKS GD Max Pro. I hated my 7.25 clutch for a street car. I drove too many miles in traffic the clutch had to be rebuilt 3x's in 15K miles. It shifted awesome though.
Last edited by batty200; Sep 26, 2012 at 10:35 PM.
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I am considering a BR pan on my 2.4 rebuild. It is a good price and appears to work. The AMS/Moroso pan costs too much considering the fitment issues. At that price point I would want it to be perfect fitment.I would also chose a bigger sprung hub clutch like a os Giken or HKS GD Max Pro. I hated my 7.25 clutch for a street car. I drove too many miles in traffic the clutch had to be rebuilt 3x's in 15K miles. It shifted awesome though.
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front.

rear.
Last edited by n2oiroc; Sep 27, 2012 at 08:53 AM.
soft springs I guess. I run 850's in the rear and I'm nearly out of thread for ride height adjustment (lowering it)
How do you mean pre-loaded to 198mm? you compressed the rear springs .200" I don't remember reading that... mind snapping a pic of your manual?
I just go until the spring doesn't rattle, then do a full turn. Do you have a LOT of weight in the rear of your car?
There is a limit line where the threads stop for about 4mm and then continue. That's the highest you raise the car.
How do you mean pre-loaded to 198mm? you compressed the rear springs .200" I don't remember reading that... mind snapping a pic of your manual?
I just go until the spring doesn't rattle, then do a full turn. Do you have a LOT of weight in the rear of your car?
There is a limit line where the threads stop for about 4mm and then continue. That's the highest you raise the car.
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soft springs I guess. I run 850's in the rear and I'm nearly out of thread for ride height adjustment (lowering it)
How do you mean pre-loaded to 198mm? you compressed the rear springs .200" I don't remember reading that... mind snapping a pic of your manual?
I just go until the spring doesn't rattle, then do a full turn. Do you have a LOT of weight in the rear of your car?
There is a limit line where the threads stop for about 4mm and then continue. That's the highest you raise the car.
How do you mean pre-loaded to 198mm? you compressed the rear springs .200" I don't remember reading that... mind snapping a pic of your manual?
I just go until the spring doesn't rattle, then do a full turn. Do you have a LOT of weight in the rear of your car?
There is a limit line where the threads stop for about 4mm and then continue. That's the highest you raise the car.
Last edited by n2oiroc; Sep 27, 2012 at 09:35 AM.
Take a picture of the car from the side and from the rear and LOW.
measure your ride height from the CENTER of your axle nut to your quarter/fender vertically.
A quick way to check is 1.5 to 2 fingers up front (or see that the LCA's are parallel)
the rears I've had set to about 1 finger gap.
The rear will be lower than the front and the gap won't be the same. The suspension geometry limits you up front.
measure your ride height from the CENTER of your axle nut to your quarter/fender vertically.
A quick way to check is 1.5 to 2 fingers up front (or see that the LCA's are parallel)
the rears I've had set to about 1 finger gap.
The rear will be lower than the front and the gap won't be the same. The suspension geometry limits you up front.
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Take a picture of the car from the side and from the rear and LOW.
measure your ride height from the CENTER of your axle nut to your quarter/fender vertically.
A quick way to check is 1.5 to 2 fingers up front (or see that the LCA's are parallel)
the rears I've had set to about 1 finger gap.
The rear will be lower than the front and the gap won't be the same. The suspension geometry limits you up front.
measure your ride height from the CENTER of your axle nut to your quarter/fender vertically.
A quick way to check is 1.5 to 2 fingers up front (or see that the LCA's are parallel)
the rears I've had set to about 1 finger gap.
The rear will be lower than the front and the gap won't be the same. The suspension geometry limits you up front.
let the e-brake off, bounce the springs, and roll the car back and forth. My rear shocks are adjusted maybe a half an inch lower than yours.
do you have a 6" spring in the rear? or is than an 8"
do you have a 6" spring in the rear? or is than an 8"
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springs are 8" front and back. i forgot what i set the ride height too, but i think my definition of low and others is pretty different. you got a pic of your ride height?
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all the corners are within 1/8". on one of the fronts it took 2 full turns more than the other, i dont remember which side it was though. im just getting it close and ill have my alignment guy corner balance it.
btw, whats with the extra turns on the rf?


