Antilag_200 attempts a Wire Tucking Project
unfortunately I have a knack for turning simple projects into monstrous big ones.. (its a personality flaw)
thats why I have posted all this stuff so you CAN do it
You have a lot of skill to do this for a living, I envy you for that.. it definitely requires patience.
thats why I have posted all this stuff so you CAN do it
You have a lot of skill to do this for a living, I envy you for that.. it definitely requires patience.
wow, well done. that's some patience right there.
i'm pretty good electrically but i wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot insulated pole.
i'm pretty good electrically but i wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot insulated pole.
Last edited by momostallion; Jan 16, 2013 at 08:20 AM.
Not really much of an update tonight, as it is really cold outside. I am using a circuit breaker versus a fuse for my alternator. This location seemed to work out the best.
Also I am almost finished with extending my passenger side healight harness but I think there are enough pictures of wires in this thread already so I will spare everyone.
Also I am almost finished with extending my passenger side healight harness but I think there are enough pictures of wires in this thread already so I will spare everyone.
The Connectors, pins, back shells insertion tools were sourced through various places like Ebay, Mouser, Newark.. . Reason being that I wanted to source the parts for a little cheaper, hence I went that route. I know that some of the vendors on here, can sell you kits of this stuff, so it removes the guessing game if you want to go that route. I know Toxicfab and Chasebays can get you those products.
My advice to you is to learn about Amphenol/ Military spec Connectors, that way you can diceipher the meaning of the part numbers. Once you know that, then you can source a part to your hearts desire.
Hope that helps.
I know the question is coming on how much does it cost to do something like this., I will tally up all my receipts so far, but if memory serves me right, I think I have about $800 into the whole project.
Last edited by antilag_200; Jan 16, 2013 at 10:31 AM.
Last night I was able to dedicate another 3 hours to passenger head light harness after my son went to sleep. Everything on that end is complete now, reran the grounding points, reloomed the entire harness and this time it is in for good. Finished it off with some brand new fender liners from mitsu.
Next on the agenda
1) Build cabling for the Hobb switch for the second 255 pump
2) Build cabling for circuit breaker to main power lug and Alternator cabling
3) Install and wire all Defi BF Gauges
Pictures coming tonight
Next on the agenda
1) Build cabling for the Hobb switch for the second 255 pump
2) Build cabling for circuit breaker to main power lug and Alternator cabling
3) Install and wire all Defi BF Gauges
Pictures coming tonight
Had a good 6 hours or so yesterday, to tackle the power connections on the engine side of the firewall.
First, drilled some holes in the carbon mil spec plate, to accept the hobb switch control and starter signal wire, finished them with some tidy gromets for 12 ga wire. One thing to note is that this entire power section can now be individually removed, no more cutting or splicing. If I need a 12 v source I simply add on to the power towers, simple and dummy proof for people like me
It is alway combursome with the hobb switch to orient it in a manner that is aesthetically pleasing and functional at the same time, so while I was pondering that location, I attached the brake line that runs across the firewall to the passenger side. It is finally in there for good.
Next I had to build a dedicated alternator wire, which I upgraded to 4 gauge ,
Here is a shot of the organized power section of the car. I still have to "mount" the hobb switch though. The entire front of the car is officially wired, only wire left is the main starter wire, but I need the engine in there to make that one.
Inside the car was also worked on, I also shortened my aem wideband wiring so that it is quick disconnected if there is no lap top in the car. Other than that, a few more circuits to finish, like the defi Power side hook up and the entire interior will be ready to go.
First, drilled some holes in the carbon mil spec plate, to accept the hobb switch control and starter signal wire, finished them with some tidy gromets for 12 ga wire. One thing to note is that this entire power section can now be individually removed, no more cutting or splicing. If I need a 12 v source I simply add on to the power towers, simple and dummy proof for people like me
It is alway combursome with the hobb switch to orient it in a manner that is aesthetically pleasing and functional at the same time, so while I was pondering that location, I attached the brake line that runs across the firewall to the passenger side. It is finally in there for good.
Next I had to build a dedicated alternator wire, which I upgraded to 4 gauge ,
Here is a shot of the organized power section of the car. I still have to "mount" the hobb switch though. The entire front of the car is officially wired, only wire left is the main starter wire, but I need the engine in there to make that one.
Inside the car was also worked on, I also shortened my aem wideband wiring so that it is quick disconnected if there is no lap top in the car. Other than that, a few more circuits to finish, like the defi Power side hook up and the entire interior will be ready to go.
dear god, i do this everyday on PLC"s for machines and dont go into as much detail as you did here, not one stone unturned!!! The gold coated pin connectors were a nice touch, very very nice job and good eye for detail, real clean look. Good ammount of weight savings too huh?
