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Little update for today, ordered and received a cabin air filter today... I forgot the 2003's never came with one, and I am tired of the stale smell coming out of the HVAC system...
Also ordered some new speakers for the doors and rear deck, they should be here today.
I have an appointment next Tuesday (4/14) with a local shop I trust to change the O-rings that mate the t-case to the tranny as I have a small leak. I would do it myself, but I have no time to get to it this month...
After that I just need to retune the car a bit as it is running a little rich since I did the EGR delete, more than likely for the car having a boost leak when tuned earlier...
Then off to the Virginia 1/2 mile event in my home town, Hot Springs, VA the first weekend in May! I can't wait for that event!
T-case O-rings replaced, the large o-ring on the t-case was ripped in half, usually it is the small one, this time it was the larger one.... glad I purchased both.
Got the new speakers in, and just waiting on the speaker adapters to install them
Update for today, troubleshot the keyless entry system... looks like I need a new driver door lock actuator... not sure if I want to purchase a new one or pop the old one apart and replace the motor in it...
Mine recently failed. I even bought the little electric motor. But then after doing much reading here and seeing that the last gear, the sector, has electric contacts that signal the body computer the condition of the lock (locked or unlocked) and reading that people who do the motor repair then often can only unlock the driver door with the fob, I bought a new door latch. I figure when they glue the gear box cover back on they often don't get the stack height right and the contacts don't make.
Getting the door liner off requires removal of the little cover behind the mirror. The center of this pops out reveling a screw. I didn't know this and broke mine.
I used a propane torch on the latch screws with thread locker. It doesn't take a lot of heat to release them. One person on youtube used a hair dryer. Without heat you don't get them out.
Other than that it is take apart and put together. Putting the key in the door keyhole and turning it does make one of the rod clips alot easier to get to.
Mine recently failed. I even bought the little electric motor. But then after doing much reading here and seeing that the last gear, the sector, has electric contacts that signal the body computer the condition of the lock (locked or unlocked) and reading that people who do the motor repair then often can only unlock the driver door with the fob, I bought a new door latch. I figure when they glue the gear box cover back on they often don't get the stack height right and the contacts don't make.
Getting the door liner off requires removal of the little cover behind the mirror. The center of this pops out reveling a screw. I didn't know this and broke mine.
I used a propane torch on the latch screws with thread locker. It doesn't take a lot of heat to release them. One person on youtube used a hair dryer. Without heat you don't get them out.
Other than that it is take apart and put together. Putting the key in the door keyhole and turning it does make one of the rod clips alot easier to get to.
Thanks for the tips... I am waiting on a buddy to pull one from a parts evo he has, I am in no rush as I can lock the car and arm the alarm as long as I lock the driver's door first...
Ain't no beauty in this thing... it is literally a daily beater... I still haven't decided if I am going to paint it yet, I may leave it alone with faded and peeling clearcoat
Update for today, went in for another alignment today as I had stuff off the suspension when All Aspects did the T-Case O-rings for me. I have had a terrible vibration in my steering wheel for the past few days as well...
After the alignment took the tech out and got up to 60mph and still had a terrible vibration... I then asked him to rotate the tires and rebalance the rear tires since I rebalanced the fronts the day prior myself at the shop I work at...
Upon removal of all wheels I noticed only one side of the car had hub centric rings on it... that would explain the vibration, and I am not sure if the car ever had all the hub centric rings installed anyway... so for now I only have 2 hub centric rings, both of the front wheels. However no vibrations on the interstate!
I ordered two sets from Amazon today so I can put the other set on the black evo since I have a slight vibration on the interstate with the volks on that as well...
Update for today, got the new Hubcentric rings in but haven't had a chance to install them as my girlfriend was in town this past weekend... gonna try and get them on before I head to the VA 1/2 mile event this weekend in my hometown, Hot Springs, VA!
Decided to paint the car, and since my brother is the manager of a well known hot rod restoration shop here in VA, Outlaws Rod & Custom, I had him go ahead and lay down some new paint on it a few weeks ago. Got the car back together yesterday and got it all cleaned up... also resprayed the faded Brembos as well...
My brothers latest project the we have been working on for about 1.5 years... 1929 Ford Model A "Rat Rod"... not technically a rat rod since it is super nice, hand built frame, my brother designed the suspension, and fabricated the headers as well...
Last edited by Fast_Freddie; Jan 23, 2017 at 05:58 AM.
