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I already have a PSRS so im after a spherical to help deal with that awkward angle. For that exact reason I think actually the opposite of you what said...
You may be right about this. But I'm not sure either way.
Originally Posted by heel2toe
Looking good! If Im understanding correctly did you sandwich the IM heat spacer thingy with 2x OEM IM gaskets?
Yup, 1 gasket on either side. And ER provides flange bolts longer than OEM to compensate for all the added thickness.
Oh interesting about the gasket sandwich. I recall reading about doing it that way years ago but I ended up just using the gasket by itself. Reminds me I should probably add a new one of those to the list but now youre making me think I should pickup some OEM ones too ugh...
As for the bearing, Id think spherical will allow more freedom to move in various directions while not having any slop. But what do I know. I will say I have had the WL horizontal bushing on there and its fine. But if you havent already you're going to love bolting back up the LCA if you have the offset PSRS. The trick is to use a prybar to help line it up. Either way if you want to sell just the inner horizontal lemme know and if not put it on your car already!
Also, random comment but I sent my buddy your build thread the other day and he said something along the lines of "see this is what your evo could look like if you didn't ruin it" lol!
Also, random comment but I sent my buddy your build thread the other day and he said something along the lines of "see this is what your evo could look like if you didn't ruin it" lol!
Thank you. Cant wait to try and break it at the track!
You'll get less compliance out of a spherical bearing for the front of the LCA. Stiction goes way up the harder the bushing becomes. A spherical has more movement but not in the right axis for this application. If I were you I would keep the PSRS and poly bushing up front. I bet you'd have a hell of a time getting the LCA in with a spherical up front and an offset rear bushing.
Marc if you're looking for a solid looming option check out wirecare.com. Their F6 split looming is really nice stuff and doesn't break the bank. I was talking to their rep at PRI and he was showing me a few of their options. It's super easy to install and the nicest part is that you don't have to disassemble the harness at the connectors to loom it and if you ever want to add/remove more wires you can easily open it back up, do the wiring, and reloom it without having to buy new looming. I'm going to use their woven split loom on my car when I'm done putting my harnesses on a diet.
Last edited by Ayoustin; Dec 11, 2017 at 02:26 PM.
You'll get less compliance out of a spherical bearing for the front of the LCA. Stiction goes way up the harder the bushing becomes. A spherical has more movement but not in the right axis for this application. If I were you I would keep the PSRS and poly bushing up front. I bet you'd have a hell of a time getting the LCA in with a spherical up front and an offset rear bushing.
As someone who is planning on getting a spherical for that joint can you expand on this please? I'll have to find the threads but its been discussed prior that a spherical in that area would be a significant improvement relative to the WL poly.
I don't know what Im talking about but I know some of you guys do so speak up please. I think I was talking to Dallas about this in the past...
You'll get less compliance out of a spherical bearing for the front of the LCA. Stiction goes way up the harder the bushing becomes. A spherical has more movement but not in the right axis for this application. If I were you I would keep the PSRS and poly bushing up front. I bet you'd have a hell of a time getting the LCA in with a spherical up front and an offset rear bushing.
Marc if you're looking for a solid looming option check out wirecare.com. Their F6 split looming is really nice stuff and doesn't break the bank. I was talking to their rep at PRI and he was showing me a few of their options. It's super easy to install and the nicest part is that you don't have to disassemble the harness at the connectors to loom it and if you ever want to add/remove more wires you can easily open it back up, do the wiring, and reloom it without having to buy new looming. I'm going to use their woven split loom on my car when I'm done putting my harnesses on a diet.
Its ugly right now at the ends of the branches/offshoots where I didnt open them up... And the engine side would be rough to get it all back out with the motor in. Maybe just do some of it. If anything I'd wana use something similar to the firewire I used on the wheel speed sensors. My starter wire OE loom was melting I think from exhaust heat.
Right now I'm just trying to get the car started. Sure hope I dont have any wiring issues to prevent that. I just need to get oil pressure and prevent any rust issues.
Then I need to finish building the ACD line and wiring. Amongst a long list of things to tidy up.
As someone who is planning on getting a spherical for that joint can you expand on this please? I'll have to find the threads but its been discussed prior that a spherical in that area would be a significant improvement relative to the WL poly.
I don't know what Im talking about but I know some of you guys do so speak up please. I think I was talking to Dallas about this in the past...
By moving to a spherical there you're hard mounting that point of the LCA to the subframe so you're not going to have as much dynamic toe change when the arm is loaded laterally as with a material that has more give to it. But because the arm can't move as easily (more stiction due to how it is loaded) it is more likely to react less quickly since the force required to set it in motion has increased.
As to how this translates into real world results, I'm not completely sure as I've never really looked to see if anyone has tested it (and I'm not 100% if I've described that properly, but it's how I understand it). My guess would be that the arms will react slower (or not at all) when coming into contact with rapid changes in road surface and that this might mean things like you're more likely to lose tire contact with the road or the tire may not be loaded as heavily so it has less grip. If you go through with it I'd be curious to see your results.
At the end of the day the best option is moving to an adjustable arm, like what Dallas makes, which allows for different lengths of the arm to set the wheel alignment and leaving the bushings centered.
Edit: stiction would increase most from a poly bushing. Spherical would help, if you can get them installed into the arm.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
Its ugly right now at the ends of the branches/offshoots where I didnt open them up... And the engine side would be rough to get it all back out with the motor in. Maybe just do some of it. If anything I'd wana use something similar to the firewire I used on the wheel speed sensors. My starter wire OE loom was melting I think from exhaust heat.
Right now I'm just trying to get the car started. Sure hope I dont have any wiring issues to prevent that. I just need to get oil pressure and prevent any rust issues.
Then I need to finish building the ACD line and wiring. Amongst a long list of things to tidy up.
Well you've got plenty of time at least. I'm only two days into digging through my main harness and already want to be done haha.
Everything inside the engine should be covered in assembly lube so you shouldn't have to worry about rust. I don't recall the starter harness running that close to the exhaust, are you maybe missing a bracket that keeps it hugged against the block? Also for cleaning up wiring, a while ago a friend pointed me in the direction of this stuff called Coroplast 839X. It's a woven tape, not the cheapest, but it keeps wires safe from all elements and looks very clean. Also very easy to work with, I usually buy rolls off ebay for ~$10. I plan to use it with the woven looming to keep a consistent look where harnesses branch off.
Last edited by Ayoustin; Dec 11, 2017 at 07:05 PM.
The reason there is stiction with a poly bushing in the front and PSRS in the rear is it make the arm sit on the front bolt at an angle, effectively binding the bushing since the bushing doesn't pivot that direction. A spherical will allow the arm to pivot without binding.
In my mind, the rear offset moves the center of the bushing outward from where it would normally sit in the subframe, squeezing the poly on the outside(front) of the arm.
This is exactly the movement the spherical would prevent so you'd never get the bushing into the subframe to get a bolt through.
Yeah, the issue to is getting the interference fit correct in the arm since the hole isn't very round. The hole can't be reamed either due to the shape of the arm not really fitting in a drill press. I have the idea of pressing a solid steel rod through it to sort of extrude hone it, but with a solid piece.
Yeah this had been discussed before and the biggest hurdle was in regards to physically pressing the spherical into the arm due to it not being very round...this is exactly why I was confused and was always under the impression the spherical would be an improvement.
V8MR- Im sorry I don't recall your name...my offers stands if you want to sell just that horizontal spherical Im game. If not Im going to roll the dice and buy this and see if it fits. Its cheap enough that seems to be worth the risk IMO http://www.buyhardrace.com/product/h...ii-ix_135.html
Name is Marc. But I'm sorry I'd like to keep the front "kit" together and sell as a package. I need to do a big garage sale of evo stuff. My garage is full of parts because I'm retarded and never sell anything.
Got the exhaust manifold bolted up, and the turbine housing mated to the compressor housing. I'd forgotten how good this coating looks when its brand new. On to the photos and some just for fun:
Dec 11, 2017, 01:12 PM
Thank you. Cant wait to try and break it at the track!
