275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo
Well it looks like underinflation there. The stiff sidewalls at and a 40 height don't typically lend them to rollover unless they don' they don't have enough PSI for the weight and hp. Now you weren't far off - 42 hot in a 3100 lbs car and mine corded evenly across the surface without failing like I see there. Due to the fact that your corded way over the edge makes me think that had something to do with the premature wear. Either that or Nitto has drastically changed the compound for the worse but I doubt that. Also worth noting is the NT01's can't really be overheated (assuming perfect setup) to the point where they shred. However the RE71's can overheat and "blue" the compound so keep that in mind as you pay to play.
So you're says no that at 38f 36r how that my tires were under inflated? Serious question, because I'm open to getting these to last longer lol.
This is the out side edge of my left front. The tire that gets the most abuse running SOW in the clockwise direction. I was running 3.3 camber, zero toe. It's slightly blued, but that could be from botching the bowl turn a few times.
This is the out side edge of my left front. The tire that gets the most abuse running SOW in the clockwise direction. I was running 3.3 camber, zero toe. It's slightly blued, but that could be from botching the bowl turn a few times.
Also if you have gopro's set them up looking at your front tires so you can see them folding over - esp in AX's where you can recover said camera if it decides to come loose. We've MIA'd several that way lol.
Originally Posted by razorlab
That's one track day from new?
38psi hot or 38psi before you went out for the session?
38psi hot or 38psi before you went out for the session?
Originally Posted by Balrok
That pretty much tells you right there. Camber is only ~25% of the equation if you are folding over and cooking the edge. I think last I ran those I was only at -2.8 and never saw that outter wear, and that was mostly Sebring which is concrete and roval at Homestead. So If you're in the 3500 range with you and fuel then i'd look at 44 hot all around, every 200lbs from that drop a psi. That was about the time I had whomever would help start doing temps and pressures hot after morning practices to find where I needed to be. As such I tend not to run "even" camber settings anymore because the data tells differently.
Also if you have gopro's set them up looking at your front tires so you can see them folding over - esp in AX's where you can recover said camera if it decides to come loose. We've MIA'd several that way lol.
Also if you have gopro's set them up looking at your front tires so you can see them folding over - esp in AX's where you can recover said camera if it decides to come loose. We've MIA'd several that way lol.
And I got a GoPro aimed at the LF for the last session. It didn't record anything. Which really pissed me off because it would have got the wheel coming off...lol
I've found 36-37 hot is better on 10.5 wheel with -3.2. Tire isnt even to the arrow yet. 44 is redonk, the car would be like on ice. Even 40 hot the tires get pushy.
Originally Posted by razorlab
So is that one track day from new?
I've found 36-37 hot is better on 10.5 wheel with -3.2. Tire isnt even to the arrow yet. 44 is redonk, the car would be like on ice. Even 40 hot the tires get pushy.
I've found 36-37 hot is better on 10.5 wheel with -3.2. Tire isnt even to the arrow yet. 44 is redonk, the car would be like on ice. Even 40 hot the tires get pushy.
No 10.5 wheels here. 17x9.5 with 255/40r17. Although, the tire is very square. I feel like it could go on a 17x10 no problem.
And I agree, 44 hot seems like a lot. First session the car came in at 42 hot all around. I picked a lot of grip dropping pressure. But if it makes the tire last longer, I might be ok with it. Also, at 42 hot, the tire wasn't wearing to the edge. I settled on 38 because that got the tire to wear right to edge of tread.
The shop that helps me with chassis setup (H1Performance, Eladio) did tell me that SOW is a terrible track for tire data because it's narrow with tighter corners, and the surface sucks. They don't take tire date from SOW to any other track. I still think its a bit of an outlier that the fronts wore this bad. I think I wasn't running enough front pressure now that it has been brought to my attention.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Mar 28, 2016 at 12:20 PM.
Shoulder wear is not necessarily low pressure. Inside & outside shoulder wear is another indicator of aggressive road coarse driving
http://www.dunloptyres.co.za/Tyre-Care/Shoulder-Wear
In my job we are involved in the beginning stages of tire wear diagnosis before we turn it over to the tire pro's. In my industry, inside & outside shoulder wear is due to high tire pressure causing the shoulders to skip on the road due to over inflation
Joe
Yes, the wheel gets moved forward a bit. I have the perrin PSRS and the tire is too far forward, it rubs the front of the liner (chewed them up pretty bad), and almost rubs the bumper, but has a solid 2 fingers of clearance in the rear. I plan on getting Ciro caster plates to try and get it more centered in the wheel well. The whiteline doesn't move the tire as much, so you should be fine.
I didn't have time to get over to the shop and take pics of my tires last night.
I didn't have time to get over to the shop and take pics of my tires last night.











