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275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo

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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 05:22 PM
  #151  
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That's one track day from new?

38psi hot or 38psi before you went out for the session?
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Well it looks like underinflation there. The stiff sidewalls at and a 40 height don't typically lend them to rollover unless they don' they don't have enough PSI for the weight and hp. Now you weren't far off - 42 hot in a 3100 lbs car and mine corded evenly across the surface without failing like I see there. Due to the fact that your corded way over the edge makes me think that had something to do with the premature wear. Either that or Nitto has drastically changed the compound for the worse but I doubt that. Also worth noting is the NT01's can't really be overheated (assuming perfect setup) to the point where they shred. However the RE71's can overheat and "blue" the compound so keep that in mind as you pay to play.
Thanks. I will try night pressures on my second set. I'll add that left had sweeper into the Roval at autoclub is pretty harsh on tires.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 05:54 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
So you're says no that at 38f 36r how that my tires were under inflated? Serious question, because I'm open to getting these to last longer lol.

This is the out side edge of my left front. The tire that gets the most abuse running SOW in the clockwise direction. I was running 3.3 camber, zero toe. It's slightly blued, but that could be from botching the bowl turn a few times.
That pretty much tells you right there. Camber is only ~25% of the equation if you are folding over and cooking the edge. I think last I ran those I was only at -2.8 and never saw that outter wear, and that was mostly Sebring which is concrete and roval at Homestead. So If you're in the 3500 range with you and fuel then i'd look at 44 hot all around, every 200lbs from that drop a psi. That was about the time I had whomever would help start doing temps and pressures hot after morning practices to find where I needed to be. As such I tend not to run "even" camber settings anymore because the data tells differently.

Also if you have gopro's set them up looking at your front tires so you can see them folding over - esp in AX's where you can recover said camera if it decides to come loose. We've MIA'd several that way lol.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
That's one track day from new?

38psi hot or 38psi before you went out for the session?
38 "hot", one cool down lap at the end of the session and then checking pressures as soon as I got out of the car.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:59 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
That pretty much tells you right there. Camber is only ~25% of the equation if you are folding over and cooking the edge. I think last I ran those I was only at -2.8 and never saw that outter wear, and that was mostly Sebring which is concrete and roval at Homestead. So If you're in the 3500 range with you and fuel then i'd look at 44 hot all around, every 200lbs from that drop a psi. That was about the time I had whomever would help start doing temps and pressures hot after morning practices to find where I needed to be. As such I tend not to run "even" camber settings anymore because the data tells differently.

Also if you have gopro's set them up looking at your front tires so you can see them folding over - esp in AX's where you can recover said camera if it decides to come loose. We've MIA'd several that way lol.
Good to know. I forgot to take my temp gun to the track so I could check temps.

And I got a GoPro aimed at the LF for the last session. It didn't record anything. Which really pissed me off because it would have got the wheel coming off...lol
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 08:05 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
38 "hot", one cool down lap at the end of the session and then checking pressures as soon as I got out of the car.
So is that one track day from new?

I've found 36-37 hot is better on 10.5 wheel with -3.2. Tire isnt even to the arrow yet. 44 is redonk, the car would be like on ice. Even 40 hot the tires get pushy.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 08:16 PM
  #157  
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am i wrong by adjusting air pressure until i am wearing chalk down to the triangle marks on the tire?
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 10:39 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
So is that one track day from new?

I've found 36-37 hot is better on 10.5 wheel with -3.2. Tire isnt even to the arrow yet. 44 is redonk, the car would be like on ice. Even 40 hot the tires get pushy.
Yes, one track day from new. The right front looks better. And the rears look significantly better.

No 10.5 wheels here. 17x9.5 with 255/40r17. Although, the tire is very square. I feel like it could go on a 17x10 no problem.

And I agree, 44 hot seems like a lot. First session the car came in at 42 hot all around. I picked a lot of grip dropping pressure. But if it makes the tire last longer, I might be ok with it. Also, at 42 hot, the tire wasn't wearing to the edge. I settled on 38 because that got the tire to wear right to edge of tread.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:36 AM
  #159  
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What does the right rear look like? because that front is kind of crazy for one track event from new.

I think this is mainly SOW and how hard it is on tires.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
What does the right rear look like? because that front is kind of crazy for one track event from new.

I think this is mainly SOW and how hard it is on tires.
I'll take pics of all 4 tires when I get home today. The fronts are worn more on the inside and outside edges that the center, indicating under inflation. The rears don't look too bad.


The shop that helps me with chassis setup (H1Performance, Eladio) did tell me that SOW is a terrible track for tire data because it's narrow with tighter corners, and the surface sucks. They don't take tire date from SOW to any other track. I still think its a bit of an outlier that the fronts wore this bad. I think I wasn't running enough front pressure now that it has been brought to my attention.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Mar 28, 2016 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:07 AM
  #161  
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Lol
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #162  
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 01:05 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I'll take pics of all 4 tires when I get home today. The fronts are worn more on the inside and outside edges that the center, indicating under inflation.
Hey Sean

Shoulder wear is not necessarily low pressure. Inside & outside shoulder wear is another indicator of aggressive road coarse driving

http://www.dunloptyres.co.za/Tyre-Care/Shoulder-Wear

In my job we are involved in the beginning stages of tire wear diagnosis before we turn it over to the tire pro's. In my industry, inside & outside shoulder wear is due to high tire pressure causing the shoulders to skip on the road due to over inflation

Joe
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #164  
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Starting to tear it all down to get new pieces in. Anyone know how much the WL Part #: KCA400M ALK moves the wheel forward?

I am semi counting on it for the new 10.5 NT03s








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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:02 AM
  #165  
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Yes, the wheel gets moved forward a bit. I have the perrin PSRS and the tire is too far forward, it rubs the front of the liner (chewed them up pretty bad), and almost rubs the bumper, but has a solid 2 fingers of clearance in the rear. I plan on getting Ciro caster plates to try and get it more centered in the wheel well. The whiteline doesn't move the tire as much, so you should be fine.


I didn't have time to get over to the shop and take pics of my tires last night.
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