275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo
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ViciousLSD (Jan 2, 2019)
Jan 1, 2019, 10:06 PM
#377
Sounds like you need some better trailing arms to fit that meat: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ling-arms.html
Jan 2, 2019, 09:38 AM
#378
**** Yes I Do.
Paypal dallas.j.cutler@gmail.com $165?? full price?
Paypal dallas.j.cutler@gmail.com $165?? full price?
Jan 2, 2019, 10:07 AM
#379
**** Yes I Do.
Paypal dallas.j.cutler@gmail.com $165?? full price?
Paypal dallas.j.cutler@gmail.com $165?? full price?
Jan 2, 2019, 06:52 PM
#384
For wheels, you can go big with the 18x12s. A few options there with Konig and Volk making one at +20 (big price and weight diff between the two) or fully custom from Forgeline like I did with +32. I'm getting real aggressive and pushing things inboard as much as possible. If running street tires like Rivals in 315s, then I think an 18x10.5 may work just fine also. I may be picking up a set of 315s rivals to throw on an extra set of PF01 +38s (I have a lot of wheels here... wife getting annoyed... haha)
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ViciousLSD (Jan 3, 2019)
Jan 10, 2019, 11:36 AM
#385
No wheel spacers up front
No fender spacers up front
No rolling or cutting of the front fenders.
Nothing
I could easily run 295's up front with probably running a 3 or 5 mm spacer and still not have to touch the fenders unless you are going super low in terms of ride height up front (which you shouldn't be anyway most likely). The rear is where it's extremely tricky to fit these as you HAVE to pull/cut the rear fenders to make it work and 9 times out of 10, it's not going to look pretty unless you have someone professional take care of them.
Hope this helps!
Jan 10, 2019, 03:43 PM
#386
I'm guessing your turning radius is cut down pretty far?
My old setup was a 275/35 up front with an 18x10.5 +10 and I still rubbed the frame rail at full lock. As for the rear it definitely takes some work, trailing arms and some inboard metal trimming free up a fair bit of space though.
My old setup was a 275/35 up front with an 18x10.5 +10 and I still rubbed the frame rail at full lock. As for the rear it definitely takes some work, trailing arms and some inboard metal trimming free up a fair bit of space though.
Jan 11, 2019, 05:33 AM
#387
I'm currently on 18x10.5 NT03+M's with 285mm Hoosier A7's. Keep in mind I was running on Ohlins coilovers with 7 inch springs up front so the tire would clear. -4.0 camber.
No wheel spacers up front
No fender spacers up front
No rolling or cutting of the front fenders.
Nothing
I could easily run 295's up front with probably running a 3 or 5 mm spacer and still not have to touch the fenders unless you are going super low in terms of ride height up front (which you shouldn't be anyway most likely). The rear is where it's extremely tricky to fit these as you HAVE to pull/cut the rear fenders to make it work and 9 times out of 10, it's not going to look pretty unless you have someone professional take care of them.
Hope this helps!
No wheel spacers up front
No fender spacers up front
No rolling or cutting of the front fenders.
Nothing
I could easily run 295's up front with probably running a 3 or 5 mm spacer and still not have to touch the fenders unless you are going super low in terms of ride height up front (which you shouldn't be anyway most likely). The rear is where it's extremely tricky to fit these as you HAVE to pull/cut the rear fenders to make it work and 9 times out of 10, it's not going to look pretty unless you have someone professional take care of them.
Hope this helps!
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