None of it is rocket science man.
Actually its all a simple task,
Measure here measure there.

You can use the ring end gap postion straight from the Mitsubishi books.

Quote me if im wrong but the Shop manual can be followed for ring end gap positions?

 

Yes. It's all I used to build mine.


http://evoscan.com/vehicle-manuals

 

Heres the procedure from the Mitsu manual

 

I'd have a go at rebuilding mine when it comes time, but instead of just getting it back to OEM spec, the money I would save in labour I would put towards a 2.2 stroker kit, that way I'd get a new set of pistons, rings, conrods and crank to put in it in the kit. Maybe cams and injectors just to finish it off, do the whole thing once and do it good.

 

I did OEM because I don't have the resources to measure and correct ptw and other clearances. OEM was an easy fit. If you have the tools and skills needed to put it together, i say go for it. I would have.

 

I have my machine shop do ptw,hone,deck.

Then you assemble

 

Out of curiosity, how much are evo 8 piston & rods worth in excellent condition ?

 

H beams 300
I beams 600

Forged pistons 400

 

I think I've seen them listed @ $100.

 

All 4 in excellent condition, 100 wow.
Times Are Hard, I'll post pics tomorrow!

 

I'm literally the only person I've known that has purchased OEM stuff for a rebuild LOL. Pistons, rods, and cams never sell for anything worthwhile, really. IF they sell, it takes forever. I have a set of OEM and Greddy cams that have been on my shelf for three years
Everyone wants the fancy stuff.

 

Here they are

 

I see fred is still being a ***. How is he not banned yet.

 

Little update. Purchased ACL bearings, rings, and a new oem gasket set, now waiting for everything to arrive. Should I have went with King bearings instead? I did a lot of reading on the two brands and couldn't decide. They both worked good but there were 1-2 people on each side that had bad experiences. Also, i can't seem to find the main/rod clearance specs in any mitsu manual. What should the numbers be at? .002 for main and .0025 for rod is what I've read from other posts, is that about right? Clearance doesn't worry my too much, everything was in surprisingly good shape when i pulled it apart. But I still want to check everything just to be safe.

Was thinking about building another block I had, but I need to bore the cylinders. Might as well do a full build with it. But that's a project for another time, first want to try out a stock rebuild.