Last month I was doing a clutch and transmission swap and having done this in the past and having struggled a bit I thought it strange that Mitsubishi wouldn't allow enough working space to make this job simple. Now, this is doing the job without loosening or dropping the subframe. Well, I found its possible to raise the transmission and slide it in place without the transmission ever even touching anything other than its mating surface on the engine. This makes stabbing a transmission a breeze.

However, there's always the other side of the coin. I had all four motor mounts off, the radiator out, the engine dropped down a little and slid forward, the bottom of the engine jacked and therefore tilted forward and the front section of the drive shaft off allowing the transfer case to be slid farther to the right. Also, I had the shift levers pulled off the transmission and the fender motor mount studs cut down.

 

Sounds like a lot of extra work vs loosening the subframe and letting it come down a couple inches.

 

Very Interesting, is the engine on an engine hoist as you remove all four motor mounts?

I've always removed all but the passenger side motor mount. Then placing the engine on a jack and the trans on another, find that sweet spot in height and "bench press" the trans into place. I try and slide the trans all the way onto the engine dowel pins in one swift movement so that the input shaft doesn't have time to bend clutch disks. That's just what has worked best for me of course.

-pal215

 

Think of this as more of an experiment than me recommending anything. The service manual says nothing about loosening the subframe when pulling the transmission. Not that there is anything wrong with doing that. What it does say is move the engine forward and then remove the transfer case. I was curious. I didn't pull the transfer case, I pulled the forward section of the drive shaft. Anyway, you are right, it is a lot of extra work.

What my question is, is how much of this is necessary or how can this method be refined to be the least amount of work?. I proved the vague service manual method does provide a simple stab but I won't be doing this again soon. Maybe other people have suggestions.

 

Now, no more 5th gear vibration and no more coast down noise.



An old picture of my engine hanger and hoist.

Knowing the center of gravity (its at the hole in the bracket on the shifter mechanism) and connecting there causes the transmission to hang level. Using this little hoist I can raise and lower the transmission with no effort. I'll be 71 in June, I think my transmission bench pressing days are behind me.

 

Wow, that engine hanger is a beast! 71 in June you say? Much Respect. There are not many people who can still do this at that age.

 

I remove the rear and passenger mounts, then let the engine drop as far down and forward as I can, supported by a jack. I then bench press and/or use a come-a-long from a ceiling joist. I've learned to lift/pivot/lift all in one motion. Goes right on, usually, though sometimes takes three tries or so LOL.
There was a learning curve, though. I kept popping the Monoloc off, before really getting the hang of it.

This method looks like a lot of work. I can see how loosening the front subframe would make it a lot easier, too... I'm just always paranoid about it not being right when I tighten it back down.

 

Me too - 14 year old car with subframe fasteners that have never been touched.

 

Scary stuff, no doubt. LOL. I'll stick with what works for me. "If it ain't broke...". Literally.

 

To test the new clutch and transmission install, my wife and I mounted up, left the cell phone behind and made surprise visits both our mothers on Mother's day. Both women live out of state, both are in their mid 90's and both still living independently at home.

The TOB rattle every Evo has was missing for the first 500 miles. Then back like always.

So, two women think we drove a long ways to see them. Actually - test drive.

 

where did you get that sweet engine support?

 

I bought mine from Best Buy Auto Equipment. It's a Norco 78099

https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com...orco-78099.htm

It does not come with the chain hoist. You'll have to search to find the smallest chain hoist you can get.

I used it to do my clutch on my IX 6SP last Christmas and it was still a complete PITA. Would probably work better on a 5SP though. The 6SP has a second shift linkage that hits on the drivers side frame rail. I ended up suspending the engine from the Norco using the hooks and chains and straps and disconnected all engine mounts and removed the radiator as well. Engine really needs to be pushed to the pass side and as far forward as possible. I also had to loosen by subframe and space it down by about 1.25 inches. In retrospect, it's probably worth it to pay somebody else to do it for $800. Hats off to BarneyB for doing it at his age. I'm 45 and it kicked my butt. I should have remembered how hard my old 5 sp was to do but I'm old and that was 10 years ago when I did the 5 sp.

 

Wow, you went through a lot of extra trouble.
All you need to do is remove the front and rear mounts, then move the engine a far forward as possible. A little finaggling here and there and it goes on.
I bet it was even easier with all that stuff out of the way, though.

 

Getting it on was actually quite easy. It was getting the transmission off/out that was a complete PITA. Just barely enough room with that stupid 6SP shift lever.

 

I see. Mine came out easy once I found juuuust the right combination of twisting and pulling. It eventually falls out. Still easier with all that stuff removed.