Hello,

I did search everywhere but no luck of finding this.

Part Number: MD7519292

Number: 21182 in the diagram, Stud.

 

are you needing some?
STM im sure can order.

or im sure other members would have them laying around.

 

You know you can put bolts if you cant source studs right?

 

Bolts are a good idea - the sort I wish I had thought of. When pulling the transmission the first thing that gets in the way are the studs.

 

Yea you can even do a bolt and lock washer if worried about it coming loose.

I feel you. These transmissions a ***** to take down and the studs make it worse.

I now remove the studs with a stud extractor and leave 2 studs in but leave them loose so when im under the car all i have to do is reach up and remove them with my fingers.

But the worst part about dropping these trans in my opinion is removing that fat transfer case.

 

Yeah, those pointed studs only purpose is quick assembly at the assembly plant going straight up. If you're not doing that they are in the way.

 

They've never been in the way for me, or at least not to a point where it was truly troublesome. You may not be dropping the trans down far enough.

 

Oh, yeah, its an experience thing. Once you figure out engine positioning, stabbing the transmission is the easiest part of the job. But for the first time guy, he's going to hit the fender first with the shift levers and then with these studs. I saw a post here where shift levers got bent and they are massive.

I don't know if you remember my post from this spring where I removed all four motor mounts, a procedure the FSM seems to be describing, moved forward, pivoted and dropped the engine a little, and the transmission went on without touching anything but the engine. You need a good engine hanger to try this.

With that said, bolts in place of studs still intrigues me and is something I might try in the future.

 

Just be careful. That soft aluminum likes to strip.

Ive always left the passenger side mount on, then lower/pivot the engine. Trans goes on/off pretty easy, after that.

 

Yeah, maybe a little less torque and some blue thread locker. I've seen some Mitsubishi applications thatonly use two studs at the fender mount.

 

I've thought about trimming the studs off, right above the nut. If I did it slowly, shouldn't get too hot nor kill threads. Maybe.
But with my luck...

 

I've done that - figure one cutoff disc per stud using a dremel. After you have them trimmed, careful clean up of the stud's threads is necessary, bevelling and smoothing. The nuts Mitsubishi supplies are soft and can easily strip. Soft equals strong. This is another - guess how I know this.

Another thing one can do is pull the control housing - in other words, the shift levers. Here again there is a catch, on the inboard end of the shaft is the return spring - I'm talking 5 speed, I've never touched a 6-speed. It comes out with the assembly if you are careful but knock this off the shaft and it can fall into the depths of the transmission.

One thing I've never heard mentioned is that the bracket that is part of the shifter mechanism has slotted mounting holes. Where you set it affects how the transmission shifts.

Anyway, I love to tinker and try new things. Years ago I saw where someone mentioned marking a timing belt before swapping and I wanted to try that. All I had on hand was white latex house paint and I wrote about it to the forums. Soon, the FSM was recommending white paint for marking the timing belt which made me chuckle. Nowadays, buy a Subaru timing belt and find it covered with marks for the service people.

It was DSM people who first started saying the best way of setting timing belt tension was adjusting until the grenade pin is loose. The technique Mitsubishi recommended was much different and required measurements in restricted space which resulted in many screwed up belt jobs. Now that is part of the FSM.