That's great news! Hopefully, they figure out what is going on.

 

Anyone have a AEM Oil Pressure gauge they want to depart with for a good cause?

Also...where to get the best deal for ARP Head Studs?

 

UPDATE: Back from the Philippines... had a great time. Spoke with my shop and was told that the head was in the Machine Shop and my valve springs were tested and found to be anywhere from 11 to 15% weak. I'm reading that anything 10% or greater is an indication to have them replaced. Does anybody have any insight on this, recommendations etc? Also, would a stronger spring be suggested since I'm putting out 100 more horsepower and tracking this thing every now and then for the past 2 years?

 

http://shop.rpw.com.au/online-store/...ec-detail.html

 

Although skeptical, I've an email out to these guys regarding titanium retainers, for I'm running out of options:

http://datgogo.com/Titanium.html?gcl...8aAmh0EALw_wcB

 

Have you seen what Stayer decided to do with this NA build? He wrote in his thread that he used Honda retainers. It's still a work in progress though.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...l#post11639809

 

I wrote and asked him which Honda retainers he used, but then reread his post and realized he used Honda retainers because he changed valve stems:

"Since I do not plan to greatly increase the engine rpm (maximum 7200 rpm), I leave the springs stock. For exhaust valves decreased the thickness of the valve stem. Therefore we must find new retainers. I also use Honda."

 

 

Gotta take care of my RA folks! :P

 

Unfortunately, there was no change after the valve springs were replaced...

I haven't replaced the camshaft position sensor as of yet so I'll do that next...heck, why not, smh. Also, Josh (bakuro) suggested this:

"check the wiring on the inside of the lower timing belt cover. Maybe it was damaged when the belt (TB) broke. That could cause inconsistent operation of the crank position sensor. If that all looks good. I would replace the cam sensor, and inspect the cam sensor pickup cup. Make sure it is not damaged or installed incorrectly...If either of those sensors are faulty. The ECU would misfire or cut ignition. Causing bad fuel economy, and keeping the ECU from seeing accurate RPM info, leading to faulty shifts on an auto."

 

So, I'm still alive...and so is the car, for the most part.

I finally picked up the car today from the shop that replaced my valve springs. It was sitting out in the lot in the elements, but apparently for only the past two weeks or less. It's been AWOL since July 11, 2017. It looked relatively clean and in good shape and started right up. Man I missed this car with it's low and deep growl, and it's soothing vibrations!

Anyhow, I've a few things to do since it was put back together by someone else, lol., This includes rearranging the manual boost controller and it's tubing. Ive also a oil leak from the turbo oil drain fitting, to the bung on the oil pan side. It's dripping onto the downpipe and throwing smoke signals like a teepee! Also, while I was supine under the car, coolant started dripping on my forehead from around gasket to the water pump? This was just replaced with the timing belt etc. It stopped shortly thereafter. I'll keep an eye on it.

As well, this CAUGHT MY EYE:

 

While pulling off the black connector from the contact, it FLEW out of my fingers and into oblivion! I spent the next half hour feeling into every orifice and flat spot I could find, turning my mitts a solid black, without any results...imagine that, smh. Sooooo, I figured I could hardwire it with a dab of solder UFN. We'll, thoroughly frustrated without adequate room, I threaded the wire through the hole in the contact then twisted it in place for now. I'm not even sure if this is making good contact but my hopes were that this was going to solve my ongoing power loss dilemma. Unfortunately, at this juncture, nothing has changed.

Can somebody tell me what sensor this is, and it's significance?

 

FYI: This sled is a ROCKET with addequate boost, up to 10psi! It's making good power as long as I stay shy of WOT. IT PULLS LIKE A BEAST! The mpg is still crap though.

 

Great to see youre still around

That photo appears to be the power steer pump pressure switch. The switch feeds information about the demand on power steering to the engine control unit.
I would solder & shrink tube (apply sealant on the connection after shrink tubing) a proper connector & re-install

 

Thanks...thats what I suspected as well after Googling a few pages, and then seeing the black, wrapped, PS supply line attached to it. Darn it Jim! I'm going to have to take it to a performance shop next and let them trouble shoot.

Meanwhile, my wife's alternator on her RX350 just took a dump again and is around the block on the side of the road. Gonna have it towed tomorrow and get it done. Her sister has an xtra car for her to drive in the mean time...thank God.