crank sensor questions
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crank sensor questions
I have to get a crank sensor because I have a broken one.
so the question is there anyone selling one besides the dealership, like an aftermarket, or someone?
also how come I can not start a new thread anywhere else but here, specially in the wtb area?
so the question is there anyone selling one besides the dealership, like an aftermarket, or someone?
also how come I can not start a new thread anywhere else but here, specially in the wtb area?
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the question is, how did you break your crank sensor? i doubt anyone makes an aftermarket crank sensor, but the stock ones rarely fail so that is generally speaking, the one to go with.
your not allowed to make posts in the classified section until you have made 50 posts in other peoples threads and in other areas.
your not allowed to make posts in the classified section until you have made 50 posts in other peoples threads and in other areas.
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well to make this short and not long, the shop that was taking care of my car and was fixing my engine was taking too long to work on it so I took it to another, and when the second shop pulled my engine they saw that the crank sensor was broken. how? well the cut the time belt, and moved my car around with out a head on, causing to wrap the time belt around the crank, eventually pushing the crank sensor off and breaking it. so is a bunch of drama that I am taking to court. I don't know how to post pictures, but I took a lot of them when they took it out to have proof.
Does any one know about how much does the crank sensor run about?
and thanks for the thread question kevind
Does any one know about how much does the crank sensor run about?
and thanks for the thread question kevind
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i have a used one that we took out because we thought it was a problem, but it wasn't. which means it still works... technically it is DEVO330's so you will want to ask him what he wants for it. i always keep misc parts like that around just in case of situations like yours. however spring tx is a bit of a drive... just go to the dealer and ask for one. all it is is an inductive coil, so they can't possibly cost that much. its the labor to swap them that is kind of a pain in the butt.
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When you guys had your problems with your cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor what did the car do? Currently mine wont start it will crank over just wont start. I go it to start once and it wont rev past 1 1/2 rpms and then dies. Does this sound familiar?
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not at all. kellys problem was with an autronic ecu. every once in a while it would flash the check engine light at us, and the code revealed "incorrect number of pulses per revolution" or something like that. note that this is with an autronic so its not from the obd-2 check engine light... the symptoms were horrible studdering during acceleration. it started fine, and idled fine most of the time. occasionally it would stall, and at its worse the car was undrivible because of the studdering.
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do you have any idea what my problme might be? iv checked everything timing, fuel pump, ic pipes, valves, lifters, cams, cam gears......still nothing.
Last edited by AutobonEvo; Apr 2, 2007 at 11:12 AM.
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not at all. kellys problem was with an autronic ecu. every once in a while it would flash the check engine light at us, and the code revealed "incorrect number of pulses per revolution" or something like that. note that this is with an autronic so its not from the obd-2 check engine light... the symptoms were horrible studdering during acceleration. it started fine, and idled fine most of the time. occasionally it would stall, and at its worse the car was undrivible because of the studdering.
Hopefully if its electrical, the dealer or someone can download the ECU error code.
My problem turned out to be a loose connection.
Before you do anything, unplug the Cam Angle Sensor plug, right next to the valve cover. Make sure the pins have not wallowed out the female, and then coat it with electrical silicone sealer (is it called dielectric grease?)
This connection was the cause of all my problems, and when you think of it, it gets real abuse: heat, vibrations and direct water.
This solved my problem; i did not have to replace the cam sensor after all.
Last edited by DEVO330; Apr 2, 2007 at 03:38 PM.
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It's called dielectric grease
This answer of Kevin's is more thorough than I could have done. He's the problem solver, not me.
Hopefully if its electrical, the dealer or someone can download the ECU error code.
My problem turned out to be a loose connection.
Before you do anything, unplug the Cam Angle Sensor plug, right next to the valve cover. Make sure the pins have not wallowed out the female, and then coat it with electrical silicone sealer (is it called diastolic grease?)
This connection was the cause of all my problems, and when you think of it, it gets real abuse: heat, vibrations and direct water.
This solved my problem; i did not have to replace the cam sensor after all.
Hopefully if its electrical, the dealer or someone can download the ECU error code.
My problem turned out to be a loose connection.
Before you do anything, unplug the Cam Angle Sensor plug, right next to the valve cover. Make sure the pins have not wallowed out the female, and then coat it with electrical silicone sealer (is it called diastolic grease?)
This connection was the cause of all my problems, and when you think of it, it gets real abuse: heat, vibrations and direct water.
This solved my problem; i did not have to replace the cam sensor after all.
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This answer of Kevin's is more thorough than I could have done. He's the problem solver, not me.
Hopefully if its electrical, the dealer or someone can download the ECU error code.
My problem turned out to be a loose connection.
Before you do anything, unplug the Cam Angle Sensor plug, right next to the valve cover. Make sure the pins have not wallowed out the female, and then coat it with electrical silicone sealer (is it called diastolic grease?)
This connection was the cause of all my problems, and when you think of it, it gets real abuse: heat, vibrations and direct water.
This solved my problem; i did not have to replace the cam sensor after all.
Hopefully if its electrical, the dealer or someone can download the ECU error code.
My problem turned out to be a loose connection.
Before you do anything, unplug the Cam Angle Sensor plug, right next to the valve cover. Make sure the pins have not wallowed out the female, and then coat it with electrical silicone sealer (is it called diastolic grease?)
This connection was the cause of all my problems, and when you think of it, it gets real abuse: heat, vibrations and direct water.
This solved my problem; i did not have to replace the cam sensor after all.
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heres what i would do:
start with the basics...
1. ensure there is a spark from all 4 cylinders. do this by pulling the plugs out (do this one at a time), connecting them to their respective coil/plug wire, and hold the plug wire such that the plug threads are touching metal. crank engine... look for a nice strong spark. doing this one at a time to make sure all 4 spark plugs are firing.
2. make sure there is fuel pressure. you can do this a number of ways. the easiest and quickest way is to make sure the car is cold, and OUTSIDE. prime the pump by quickly trying to start the, then remove either the feed line to the fuel rail or the regulator at the end. holding whichever end you removed with a shop rag so fuel doesn't go squirting everywhere. if there is pressure, it will come squirting out (assuming you do it relatively quickly from when you primed the pump.
3. make sure the injectors are firing. you can do this with a test light, or a multimeter. first check to see if one wire on the injector bung either has 12V or continous to ground. it will be one or the other. then when cranking you should see it pulse one or the other as well.
4. make sure you don't have intake leaks. do a boost leak test from the turbo inlet.
5. depending on what you have available to you, you can swap MAFs with someone.
6. if you have spark, and fuel, and the car is still not starting, i would check the timing belt to make sure the cams are in time.
i would help you more but you need to describe in detail your mods, when did this happen to you (i.e. were you just driving along and it died, or did you mod it and it hasn't started sense)....
start with the basics...
1. ensure there is a spark from all 4 cylinders. do this by pulling the plugs out (do this one at a time), connecting them to their respective coil/plug wire, and hold the plug wire such that the plug threads are touching metal. crank engine... look for a nice strong spark. doing this one at a time to make sure all 4 spark plugs are firing.
2. make sure there is fuel pressure. you can do this a number of ways. the easiest and quickest way is to make sure the car is cold, and OUTSIDE. prime the pump by quickly trying to start the, then remove either the feed line to the fuel rail or the regulator at the end. holding whichever end you removed with a shop rag so fuel doesn't go squirting everywhere. if there is pressure, it will come squirting out (assuming you do it relatively quickly from when you primed the pump.
3. make sure the injectors are firing. you can do this with a test light, or a multimeter. first check to see if one wire on the injector bung either has 12V or continous to ground. it will be one or the other. then when cranking you should see it pulse one or the other as well.
4. make sure you don't have intake leaks. do a boost leak test from the turbo inlet.
5. depending on what you have available to you, you can swap MAFs with someone.
6. if you have spark, and fuel, and the car is still not starting, i would check the timing belt to make sure the cams are in time.
i would help you more but you need to describe in detail your mods, when did this happen to you (i.e. were you just driving along and it died, or did you mod it and it hasn't started sense)....