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Choosing the right Buschur Racing engine for your build.

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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 07:02 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
nono its nothing like that, and of course i would use whatever recommended oil religiously, i just meant like.. i didnt want to go so far and so crazy, ie., i dont need to run 9s, even 10s.. just want a solid reliable motor that won't consume oil etc..

sigh i should probably revise that statement, i just meant that i didn't need something too wild, just a great, solid, reliable and worry-free motor.. sorry guys
In that case.........go back to what I suggested for you, our standard stroker engine, you won't regret the swap.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 07:04 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 05OrangeSS
Did anybody ever pony up the cash for you to use that Winberg crank Dave?
No they did not and it's pointless now as we use a crank we had Manley do custom for us, lightweight 100mm stroke built exclusively for us. It's 5 pounds lighter than their standard billet crank we used originally in the 2.3RPM engine.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 07:05 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
Dave just curious if I daily drive my Evo year round in Chicago weather would you still recommend 20w50 for temps in the teens and below zero? If not what ambient temp would you switch over to and what weight? Looking to switch to a 2.3rpm motor in the future if it makes a difference.
I say run the 20-50 until it makes it hard to start the car, that's my general rule. I'd say if you are going to see months of 40 degree or less temps you can drop the oil weight down. The thicker oil is used for our tolerances and for oil pump longevity.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 07:31 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by David Buschur
I say run the 20-50 until it makes it hard to start the car, that's my general rule. I'd say if you are going to see months of 40 degree or less temps you can drop the oil weight down. The thicker oil is used for our tolerances and for oil pump longevity.
I've studied motor oil for years and this statement is spot on.

My personal recommendation is Mobil 1 15w50 unless you are using a FP stock frame turbo. In that case Brad Penn 10w40.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #95  
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I just received my new BR 2.3 for Project MJ this past week. I sent in my BR 2.0 to have it looked at and David recommended I go with the standard 2.3. My Evo has always been a street car used only for weekends (not a daily driver). I currently run an FP Black (JB) on E-85. I think with this new motor I will drop down to an FP (BB) Red, continue running E-85 with about 35psi (maybe 37 peak). I think that's going to make for a wicked street set-up Thanks again DB!

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Last edited by SLVRNBLK; Oct 18, 2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 08:51 AM
  #96  
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Thought I'd give this good thread a bump for all the new guys that are on the site now.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #97  
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David,

recommendations for a street car searching for 500 whp+ on 93 octane with possibility of E85 tune.

had my prior evo with a 2.3 50 trim with a full bolt on making 500 whp on 93 and meth. i wanna stay away from meth and with the turbo advancements, it should not be so difficult.

My thinking was a Rebuild with the stock 2.0 / 2.2 or a 2.4

My old 2.3 used oil, not a major amount but it did use some oil. I was told by many that it is normal but i never felt comfortable with that.

i dd my car and a rare drag strip car....

What would be your recommendations for a block?
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by David Buschur
I say run the 20-50 until it makes it hard to start the car. That's my general rule. I'd say if you are going to see months of 40 degree or less temps you can drop the oil weight down. The thicker oil is used for our tolerances and for oil pump longevity.
I will implement this for my future upkeep of the car. I am in Central Texas and the winters are not too severe compared to other places. Would the same rule of thumb apply in your opinion?
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by STOCK03EVO8
David,

recommendations for a street car searching for 500 whp+ on 93 octane with possibility of E85 tune.

had my prior evo with a 2.3 50 trim with a full bolt on making 500 whp on 93 and meth. i wanna stay away from meth and with the turbo advancements, it should not be so difficult.

My thinking was a Rebuild with the stock 2.0 / 2.2 or a 2.4

My old 2.3 used oil, not a major amount but it did use some oil. I was told by many that it is normal but i never felt comfortable with that.

i dd my car and a rare drag strip car....

What would be your recommendations for a block?
My recommendations are what this thread is about……the information is all here.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:17 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Levar
I will implement this for my future upkeep of the car. I am in Central Texas and the winters are not too severe compared to other places. Would the same rule of thumb apply in your opinion?
I have to be confused…….my answer should change because you are in Texas?
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #101  
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This might require a different thread but do you have any similar info like this for your engine offerings for the Evo X?
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by 05OrangeSS
This might require a different thread but do you have any similar info like this for your engine offerings for the Evo X?
We offer three options for the EVOX, basically.

2.0 standard build, this is basically a built replacement of the stock engine. The cylinder walls on the EVOX will get distorted at the tops when getting close to 500 whp from the engine.

2.0 with sleeves, this is the highest rev'ing engine, same CC's as stock with the exception of a slight over bore. Forged internals like the engine above. The sleeves will allow the block to withstand any power you can put to it.

2.2BAMF, this is our most popular engine actually. Billet crank, forged pistons/rods/sleeves etc. Better low/mid range/top end power. GREAT engine for bigger turbos, street, autocross, road racing and yes even drags.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by David Buschur
We offer three options for the EVOX, basically.

2.0 standard build, this is basically a built replacement of the stock engine. The cylinder walls on the EVOX will get distorted at the tops when getting close to 500 whp from the engine.

2.0 with sleeves, this is the highest rev'ing engine, same CC's as stock with the exception of a slight over bore. Forged internals like the engine above. The sleeves will allow the block to withstand any power you can put to it.

2.2BAMF, this is our most popular engine actually. Billet crank, forged pistons/rods/sleeves etc. Better low/mid range/top end power. GREAT engine for bigger turbos, street, autocross, road racing and yes even drags.

2.2BAMF what's that stand for Dave?
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Evoloved
2.2BAMF what's that stand for Dave?
BAMF

Translated as: Bad $ss Mother F***er
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 09:00 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Evoloved
2.2BAMF what's that stand for Dave?
Lol
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