so if this is bad on the car, why offer?
I am going to assume that the 1/4 milers that are using this feature are using the feather the clutch method?

 

B/C when used properly, it can greatly improve your 1/4 mile times, so for the guys who really know how to drive, this is great.

For eveyone else who has never used it before, they could easily break stuff.

- Steve

 

Plus One!

I mostly use NLTS because on my car it actually is less harsh than lifting throttle.

The LC is only breaking parts because novice drivers have it set to 6k and are doing clutch dumps. I have found that you really only need 5k w/boost to get a nice 1.8 short time. If you are going for a quicker 60ft then that odds are you will break something sooner or later.

 

If the Launch Control is similiar to the Stutter Box that I had on my Talon, I don't think I will have any drivetrain problems. I raced my Talon AWD for about 7 years without any transmission or transfer case breakage. I would launch at 5,000 RPM and would get a string of 1.7 60' times. If I launched any higher, I would come out of the hole spinning all the tires.

 

Now add sticky tires and traction compound into the 6k RPM launch.

If you know how to drive you'll be fine.....most of us are coming from the world of DSMLink anyway.

 

Sticky tires would definitely change things in terms of possible breakage. As you said before, if you know how to drive you'll be O.K. Wheel hop is the main thing to avoid, that is a center diff killer. If I begin to wheel hop, I will abort or back off on that run.

 

Hope we don't end up calling you one hop

 

Okay, my car drives very well, but on the fuel map, I never make it to the "happy zone" until about 4500 rpm where it stays fairly good until redline. If I start from a roll at 1500 rpm or so and floor it in 2nd, let say, should it shoot right up to the happy zone or not (or 3rd gear for that matter). I am wondering if I may be tuned too rich on the low end and cause poor spool. My car drives great under light loads or high loads from 3200 rpm on, but between 2k and 3k with medium load, it is sort of a dog on the freeway (I think this is normal). My turbo seems to hit hard right around 3200 rpm and seem less progressive than it used to be (before countless modifications). Any advice? Shiv, David, Calvin (oh and where is my Creader?) Thanks,

Sigfrid

 

Look at the SMART Threshold table. SMART doesnt kick in until a MAF value of 41, which will be in the midrange of a stock car. before that point, you are running on the regular fuel map, without smart. If you want to change anything in that range, change the fuel map.

 

That is the thing, you see. I do not hit the 41% until there is a serious load on the engine. I am talking WOT in any gear about 3500 rpm on or so. That seemed weird to me for a stage 1+++ car.

 

What do I have to do to get advise from Vishnu? Is this technical support? Man, this is frustrating.............."what happened to thousands of Shiv tuners in your car"? This thing needs major involvment and I am not even getting an acknoledgment


Sigfrid

 

Im happy to see the v390 100oct maps on the website. Im wondering what are some safe afr ranges for that map?

 

If you guys think your setup is involved... try running Smart over another tuners custom flash... However, it is worth it as my other tuner's flash has NEVER thrown a P0300 code (yes, it is an 03')... and even now, not optimized for the SMART parameters, I'm still not getting that got damned P0300 code (no Creader). No codes for that matter. I'm in firm belief that a lot of the P0300 code problem suffered by Vishnu customers has to do with something in their flash code.

Back on topic, who is still running the Map with the timing being advanced? Are you all having to use the Creader?

 

if I am reading this post right, I have a dynoflash custom tune and was going to sell it and just have vishnu do the basic xede flash to eliminate the rev limiter and hook up the xede/smart. should I now keep the original flash and just hook up the xede? should this keep the "p" code off?
has this been your experience?
thanks

 

I tried the advanced timing map and it threw a code right away. The car did not work well at all and I had to revert to the other map immediately. I guess my car is set at the limit or something (-2,-1), but it was breaking up around 3000 rpm with that map.