7 gph vs. 15 gph. Just less than half the flow. The 15gph was actually made for the Buick market which is atleast 3.8 liters, engine size.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I see, 7gph. Many referred to it as #7.

IMO, insufficient to ward off knock at the track at full tilt. Maybe for 24-25psi peak at conservative a/f's, but not a big boost spike like Dave used to run when running the the spikes on the dynotesting thread.

Especially in 1st gear on the launch. We started with 5gph, then moved to 10gph + a little 110, then to fully use 93+meth alone with no racegas, it took a 15gph to finally see the timing numbers stay put on a drag run.

Vtechh8ter and many others use the 15gph.

If tuning with the assumption that a end user may run out of meth or pop a leak however, the 7gph + conservative a/f is the way to go.

 

agree 100%, I leave this tuning thing to the expexrt 'cuz they know what they are doing and they have the proper tools to do the job....when it comes to my car that expert is Mark of Turbo Trix

 

TTP,

Not sure if you meant "Dave" as me or not?

The #7 nozzle I feel is perfect. We played with a few different nozzles and this one seemed to work best.

When I tune a customers car, or Al for that matter, I won't go over 25 psi on pump gas and alky. I feel that is really the upper safe limit given the fueling, variances in octane you get and he safety of something failing. So I guess with you stating 24-25 psi is fine with this nozzle it explains why that's what I use

David Buschur
www.buschurraing.com

 

Who else burnt the tires off the RS while dynotesting alky and many other parts in a dyno testing thread.

 

Scott,

You are correct, i do run the 15gph nozzle but Dave has changed my mind on that as it is too much Meth for the car. In turn their is no room for error in the event something happens to the system. I have personally replaced 3 motors on evo8's due to this same thing happening. Everyone that runs alot of meth is just on borrowed time .

It is fun to crank up the boost to 30 psi on the stock turbo with the meth, but it is not worth it IMO as anytihng can happen. I am stepping down to a smaller nozzle and relying on pump gas more these days .

Also the way my car is setup now, their is no need for all that Meth .

 

heheh. very cute. unforunately, your assessment is wrong. what he is describing is a chemical reaction, not a fission reaction. splitting an atom is fission. splitting a molecule is a chemical reaction. water is a molecule, not an atom.

cheers,

strike

 

Thanks strike. But to his defense, both atoms and molecules are really really small

-shiv

 

How much time would I be borrowing if I run my methyl at 7gph at 25psi with a conservative tune and most importantly have it setup to energize a solenoid that routes air to a WG actuator once anything less then 3gph is sensed by a flow sensor?

I know there still is the possibilty of disaster if a combination of malfunctions occur furthermore the phenomenon of WG actuation time lag may not be soon enough, but would this be fairly "safe"?

I just realized I made an off-topic post, oops

 

I think some type of safety chart should be devised for people to go with. Say 7gph is good for X psi and 10gph is good for X psi and so on. The pump gas octane should be fed into the equation also since some of us run 93 and some run 91. And the difference from running alcohol, meth, and combo with 50/50 users.

 

Any/all- What nozzle would you recommend for a GT35/100% denatured/92oct rig? I have both sizes and am not sure which is appropriate. Also, what is the max reliable boost to push the 35R to on 92oct assuming the SMC kit IS working? I also plan on running my AEM EMS to not go to the alternate map unless it gets the spray signal indication...should give some safety.

 

I think you will have to talk to who tunes your EVO on the nozzle size. Too many tuners have too many different ideas on how to do it. Leave it up to the guy that will be responsible for the car when it has a problem.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Btw, I wanted to update my situation. As recommended by others on here, I flipped the right dipswitch, and I immediately went from 70-80psi to a fully 100psi. I didn't even have to look at the gauge, because I could tell right away by how the pump sounded. It went from a slow, repeating thump to a very fast machine gun sound. I could tell that it was really spraying nicely. Then, I cranked it up, let the idle settle, and pushed the test button - the engine almost died right away, so then I was ready to go tuning.

My first runs on the dyno showed AFRs in the 9s, so I knew it was working despite the nozzle being tapped into the stock IC pipe up by the battery, which isn't very close to the TB.

 

Warrtalon,

How are you planning to compensate for the lower AFR's? SAFC?
I had the same problem with my smc alky pump pressure initially showing 80psi and was road tuned this way. My AFR were 10.6-11.0 @25psi with no knock, so I figure its safe at 80psi. But I'm wondering if I'm leaving a margin of saftey and a few hp on the table at the lower pressure.
After calling SMC about this and flipping dip switch #1 the pressure went back up to 100psi. Now I need a way to re-tune it.
Kinda makes me wonder if SMC tests every pump/controller before shipping them.

 

Oh, Al was there to tune me on the dyno right after I got the alky working properly. I still have my SAFC, but I'm not using it right now.