I hear where you are coming from, however especially in the case of the stock turbo, when boosting 32-34psi, you want the effective octane higher during this peak torque event before the boost starts to taper off due to efficiency. We have 34+ psi runs logged on the dyno with no knock. So again, you want peak flow at peak torque, because that is where the knock from high cyl pressures will likely occur.

 

The progressive systems in question are indeed scaled according to boost pressure, not rpm. Therefore, once the user determined point (e.g. 20psi) is reached, wherever that point may be, the system is at 100% flow capacity.

 

Ted,
If I was to get a Methanol kit, could you recommend a brand?

 

The only kit with which I have direct experience is the SMC I am running presently. So far, it's worked perfectly. If you're considering such a kit, I'd recommend a 15 gph nozzle considering your GT35R.

 

An Apexi AFC could be wired in using the 12V side of the pump relay, or pump switch instead of TPS to switch between the throttle maps. Use a resistor to step the 12V down to under 5V that the AFC is expecting from the TPS sensor. Use this AFC to add additional gasoline fuel correction only when the meth kit turns on.

Set the low throttle map for 0 airflow signal correction anytime the meth is not spraying. Set the high throttle map to whatever negative correction needed with the meth flowing. This would give some tunability via rpm to a stock ecu car.

 

I thought of this about 8 mos ago, but could never justify the cost of a SAFC being used as a progressive controller. Way too expensive of an application for minimal results.

 

Agreed. A $300 new AFC2 wouldn't be worth the cost. But used SAFC1 blue screen units can be had on ebay for less than $90 for a DIY type guy.

I personally would just tune my main fuel management setup assuming the meth is spraying and leave it at that. Then again, Im all for the simplest/cheapest method.

 

I believe 100% that H2O injection, due to basic physio-chemical facts, has more HP potential in our engine than any alcohol or mixture, but doing so is not really an option for me.

Bottom line is this: The next step that is easiest and cheapest to get my WHP from B to C is by using a SMC-like kit with anhydrous MeOH and a custom tune even though there is still more to gain from good old oxygen dihydride (water).

I'm well overdue for some more HP and I think an inj system is a crafty application, If there is a different route other than my plan (SMC/methyl, flow sensing-WG solenoid fail-safe, and custom tuned), someone let me know. This is considering I plan to keep stock ecu (no piggy), mbc, and have no wide band, logger, etc.

Perhaps in like 2007 or 8 H2O will be taking over, but for now...

 

I used to think the same, but now I respectfully disagree.

I gained some 35whp and 40 ft/lbs above the best possible tune on 93 oct by way of 100% MeOH injection, and the clincher is I haven't even really upped the boost pressure yet!

When I see someone . . . anyone duplicate this with a little water spray, I'll be a believer.

 

Ted i recall this : ).

 

Teb:would you happen to have a no injection Vs. MeOH injection datalog? Just wondering your timing/AFRS for the 2. Thx.

 

Right here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=131534

 

Hmm, sorry Rich, I started reading, but then realized there were 14 pages here. I just installed my SMC on Saturday, and I thought it was working, but there's 2 similarities I have with you:

1) When hitting the test button, the nozzle sprays, I can see 80-90psi on the gauge, and the pipe gets really cold in a hurry, but the engine never stumbles

2) I haven't done extensive logging yet, but during a preliminary burst in 2nd gear, I saw no drastic change in AFRs (same boost level).

Now, I haven't changed any boost levels or tuning parameters, since Al will be fully retuning me for 24-25psi on Sunday, but I was kinda hoping the car would stumble when hitting the test button. Has anything changed in your case?

 

I noticed the same thing with my SMC alky kit.
i only got about 80-85psi max when hitting the test button. Everything was installed correctly and no leaks. I thought I might of got a bad pump or the little pressure gauge was off? But when i verified with another gauge it still was only 80psi. Not sure if this is normal or not with version 2 kits?

Hint:[U]One thing you might want to try is there is two dip switches on the side of the v.2 smc controller box. Both #1 and #2 switches are in the "up" position (default). Push switch "1" down and you can get additional 20 psi. Wala....100psi.

 

Is that the recommended thing to do in reference to the dip switches?