Buschur/Dynoflash/SMC alky kit problem?
Originally Posted by Richard L
Since gasoline and methanol has similar density, it doesn't really matter if your calculation is done by volume or mass.
I do have some concern with your set up, if you run out of methanol, you will be taking nearly 14% fuel out of your engine. If the afr at full-load is 11:1, taking 33% alcohol out will leave you running at close to afr of 13:1 !
Consider your "plan B" soon.
I do have some concern with your set up, if you run out of methanol, you will be taking nearly 14% fuel out of your engine. If the afr at full-load is 11:1, taking 33% alcohol out will leave you running at close to afr of 13:1 !
Consider your "plan B" soon.
I don't recall the specific gravities, but I do recall that I used them in making my calculations, hence the clarification (in case someone else makes an error).
Plan 'B' is in motion, and should relatively straightforward using Vishnu's S.M.A.R.T. system.
Plan 'B' is in motion, and should relatively straightforward using Vishnu's S.M.A.R.T. system.
The aquamist kit can run up to 75% methanol (medium term-2-4 weeks) and 95% (short term - one week or so). We don't encourage it due to fire hazard liability issues so we said M50/W50.
M50/W50 enhances octane and good antifreeze properties. We are offering teflon seals free if anyone wants to reseal their own pump in their own backyard - a 30 minutes job. Telfon seal can resist high concentration of nitronmethane and propylene oxide (flame accelerant - careful).
M50/W50 enhances octane and good antifreeze properties. We are offering teflon seals free if anyone wants to reseal their own pump in their own backyard - a 30 minutes job. Telfon seal can resist high concentration of nitronmethane and propylene oxide (flame accelerant - careful).
Rest assured that I missplace no responsibility where that is concerned. We can't expect any system to be perfect, and whatever results from its use is the responsiblity of a deliberate human decision.
If everyone behaves like you, lawyers will be a thing from the past.
Originally Posted by Ted B
Rest assured that I missplace no responsibility where that is concerned. We can't expect any system to be perfect, and whatever results from its use is the responsiblity of a deliberate human decision.
Damn, there are some smart people on this board! I'm not joking. Too much math for me!!
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Not to go off topic but since Im a complete newbie to alcohol/methanol effects can someone tell me since Im thinking about getting a kit which is better to run - alcohol or methanol.
So far it seems methanol makes more power.. but by how much? I also hear its corrosive but not to be worried about in this case.
Also, isnt methanol harder to find and more expensive - being that my Home Depot down the street sells denatured alcohol for pretty cheap!
So far it seems methanol makes more power.. but by how much? I also hear its corrosive but not to be worried about in this case.
Also, isnt methanol harder to find and more expensive - being that my Home Depot down the street sells denatured alcohol for pretty cheap!
Methanol has an edge over denatured alcohol, simply because with denatured alcohol, you get impurities, solvents, etc. that are not necessarily desirable for this application.
Methanol bought by the 55 gal drum is around $130-150, which makes it far cheaper than anything you're going to find at Home Depot. Methanol by the drum can be had from any industrial chemical supply, and they'll usually even deliver it. All you need from that point is a bung tool and $15 plastic drum pump from Grainger supply or equiv., and you're in business.
Oh yeah, Methanol is flammable, so treat it as you would a drum of gasoline and use common sense and safety wear.
Methanol bought by the 55 gal drum is around $130-150, which makes it far cheaper than anything you're going to find at Home Depot. Methanol by the drum can be had from any industrial chemical supply, and they'll usually even deliver it. All you need from that point is a bung tool and $15 plastic drum pump from Grainger supply or equiv., and you're in business.
Oh yeah, Methanol is flammable, so treat it as you would a drum of gasoline and use common sense and safety wear.
To add to Ted B's post, all R-OH are hydroscopic(absorbs moisture from atmosphere), keep the cap tightly seal if you decide to go w/ a 55gal and take a long time to use it up.
hygroscopic
Originally Posted by SlowCar
To add to Ted B's post, all R-OH are hydroscopic(absorbs moisture from atmosphere), keep the cap tightly seal if you decide to go w/ a 55gal and take a long time to use it up.
hygroscopic
Originally Posted by Richard L
The aquamist kit can run up to 75% methanol (medium term-2-4 weeks) and 95% (short term - one week or so). We don't encourage it due to fire hazard liability issues so we said M50/W50.
M50/W50 enhances octane and good antifreeze properties. We are offering teflon seals free if anyone wants to reseal their own pump in their own backyard - a 30 minutes job. Telfon seal can resist high concentration of nitronmethane and propylene oxide (flame accelerant - careful).
M50/W50 enhances octane and good antifreeze properties. We are offering teflon seals free if anyone wants to reseal their own pump in their own backyard - a 30 minutes job. Telfon seal can resist high concentration of nitronmethane and propylene oxide (flame accelerant - careful).
is there any way to modify the kit to run 100% alcohol with more lifespan >?
Richard: I am curious how progressive controllers work. Say the trigger/onset MAP is 10psig and max spray is 20psig,
so @10psig, pump is spraying at 1% volume of maximum and @20psig, its 100%....and at 15psig, it sprays 50%?
so @10psig, pump is spraying at 1% volume of maximum and @20psig, its 100%....and at 15psig, it sprays 50%?






