If a guy just wants to run alchy to help prevent heat soak and knock while road racing what size nozzle is recommended? You cant lap for 30 minutes with a 1 gallon tank and #7 nozzle unless that pressure is turned way down.

I understand you fellas are using it for drag racing but I am looking for a road racing solution using the stock IC sprayer bottle.

 

You can get a larger tank such as the 2.5 gal and mount it in the trunk and there are even larger tanks if you really wanted to.

 

You could set it max spray at higher psi (like 24?) With a stock turbo, I would just tune it to 25psi, let it tapper to around around 20psi at redline. Then during road race, turn it down and limit its boost to 19psi all teh way to redline. Not sure if it will last 30 minutes, but I thinkit will.

 

I had alchy injection on my GSX for two years. I was using the snowperformance.net kit with 325cc injector. I started with water then moved to smurf wiz then worked my way to 100% achohol.

On my distilled H2O setup I used a 325cc nozzle and simply advanced timing 3 degrees. I left boost and fuel alone (20psi, -10%). I never had knock and probably could have upped the boost some but I was playing it safe. The additional 3 degrees of timing and elimination of knock was good for 2-3mph in the 1/4 over a bleeding edge 93 octane tune.

Eventually I tried alchy and it was obvious that you could push the tune alot more. I was able to run 5 more PSI of boost (25) and added 2 degree of timing advance without knock. I didn't try to push it any more than that but I'm sure there was more to be had. This was good for a 4-5mph gain over a the bleeding edge 93 octane tune.

The problem I had was cost of distilled alchy. I was going through a gallon every two days just beating around town and that was with a conservative tune.

I wouldn't recommend running alchy for anything other than drag racing. Especially if you are making alot of turns. The alchy sloshes around so much that I would fear going dry in a high-G turn. If you insisted on it though, I would get a smaller jet and run high pressure. I believe they make jets as small as 125cc. As long as you aren't running your turbo like a mini-flamethrower, that 125cc@100psi and a 1 gallon tank should be more than enough to prevent knock for a 30 minute session. In that case I would use water and not alchy though.

 

You like the snow kit?

I've been eyeing the new snow kit for evos that runs according to boost respective to MAF and also thier additional failsafe kit.

It won't be a simple fit like the SMC but sounds like nice peice however

 

I liked everything about it EXCEPT the line to nozzle fitting. It was a compression fitting like on a boost gauge and mine leaked a little until I really cranked down on the thing. Other than that is was great. I had the adjustable boost sensative kit and it worked slick.

I was able to test thier warranty as well because my pump fell off the shelf and broke a few connectors. They 2 day fedex'd me replacements for free.

That being said I think the IC sprayer tank it the hot ticket. I hated having to run lines from the hatch to the engine bay. I could also hear the pump run at partial throttle/low boost.

 

Where did you mount the pump? I read you should have the surflow pump lower than the resevoir.

 

The stock EVO sprayer tank holds over a gallon, I think that's what I remember. The way the pump is mounted I don't think sloshing is going to be an issue for road racing as the pick up is in the bottom, you would have to be very close to empty, very close, to have any trouble.

I would think with a #7 nozzle and the pump set up correctly it would last an hour.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I guess I would need to know what the correct pump set up would be. I'm not the best at math but a 7GPH nozzle even at half PSI is still gonna be 3.5GPH.....lets say we are off thottle 20% of the time....thats still more than 2 gallons.

I had the pump mounted in the spare tire area and the jug mounted on the side of the hatch but still less than the nozzle height. It worked but I didn't like hearing the pump or the sloshing of alchy. Probably not the safest thing in the world to have in the cabin either. Running lines to the rear of the car is a PITA as well because you have to have high pressure lines that can hold 100PSI from -30degrees - 140degrees.

I really like the BR kit but I would need a smaller injector for my needs. Its probably perfect for anything other than long lapping sessions. I would rather have a smaller nozzle and higher pressure than a bigger nozzle and lower pressure.

 

The alky sprayer only sprays over a pre-set boost limit. So if you set the alky kit to spray at 2 psi then it is going to be on just about all the time. The alky is not needed at 2 psi of boost. You need to determine WHERE the alky NEEDS to be injected and only inject it at and above that point.

In other words if you can run 20 psi of boost with no knock on 94 octane then I'd say having your alky kit spraying at 20 psi of boost would be a waste of alky. Maybe set it so it starts to come on at 20 psi and maxes out at 24-25 psi. This would mean you will only be spraying alky OVER 20 psi. It is also progressive on the amount it sprays over the 20 psi limit. The alky would last longer than you think, I think

Hope that helps.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I see your point and agree with you to a point.

When I'm road racing I'm at full boost at least 80% of the time. Whether I'm running 20 psi or 24 psi doesn't matter because 80% of the time I'll be at full boost and using the alchy.

I really dont want to run 24PSI.....I want to run 20PSI but I want to use something other than fuel to help keep my timing from getting pulled and fight loss of power due to heat soak.

For me the addition of a smaller nozzle and H2O injection would probably be best.