I think I misread your post earlier if you did mention it was located on the bend. If its located on the bend that could be the problem.

 

I hope so. Otherwise, I'm going to have 2 holes in my IC pipe for nothing. I'm moving the nozzle this afternoon.

 

Nozzle is right in front of the throttle body now (2" from end of the pipe). It seems to have more effect, but less than I was expecting. With 75% denatured and 25% water and full spray at 20 psi, I was seeing AFRs decrease by about 0.5 AFR (from 11.3 to 10.8). That's not much change considering that I was only at 21 psi. I tried raising the boost up a pound and it knocked right away, just as it would on pump.

 

This morning I tested the alky kit at idle and at 3k rpm. At 3k rpm it only dropped about 1.0 AFR and at idle it dropped 2-3 AFR.

 

When i first got my kit i couldnt turn the boost up but about 3 psi and no extra timing before it knocked. Car had about 15k miles on it. I changed the spark plugs with new stock ones. After that i was able to run 26psi and 4 more deg timing. Guess they get old fast. Switched over to the br8's and now run 29psi with 8deg more timing with no knock. Dunno if that helps any.

 

Interesting thought. Maybe I'll swap plugs and see what happens. Thanks.

 

If they are only decreasing .5 then you arent spraying enough alcohol. My kit dropped the AFRs a few full digits, atleast.

Get a larger nozzle, pull some fuel, and increase boost.

 

First, the nozzle, we prefer to get it in the upper i/c pipe right at the end of the coupling, so it is actually in the straight section of the pipe.

Next, the kit is NOT suppose to be tested at idle. There is not enough air flow through the tubing to carry the alky into the engine. The air in the i/c pipes barely move at idle, so nothing pushes it into the engine. My guess is testing it at idle and the location of the nozzle very well could just let the alky/water run down the i/c tubing and into the intercooler like you said. You are suppose to raise the RPM's to 3,000 and then test it.

Next part 2, I have found NO GAINS AT ALL in mixing water/meth/denatured. NONE. I tuned a car recently that the owner insisted I use a mixture of water/meth. Well the car sucked. Hard to tune, no gains in power, waste of a day of messing around. I drained the alky tank and filled it with straight methanol (denatured would have the same effect) and BAM! the power started coming. I'd suggest using water for washing the car and alky for making power

Hope these tips help you out Rich! Let me know if you need anything else

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I installed mine in the bend of the pipe and im getting 2-3 afr change... I wish I could help?

 

Hi David, tuning with water, water/MeOH will not see much gains using conventional tuning method of running a low AFR/rich. Water has tremendous latent heat of vaporization( see it as a big heat sponge): 2 times that of methanol and 6 times that of gasoline. For it to shine, you have to be in the region of 0.85lambda/12.5afr. Too rich a burn, you will drown the combustion and not see gains or even loose power.
Its been around since the 1930s when Sir Harry Ricardo used it on fighter plane engines.

 

I say run 100% meth or alcohol also. Thats what I do, the other guy who works at No Limit, and a bunch oif our friends/customers with evo's.

Rich, when spraying the alcohol and your looking at it of course its gonna hit the other side of the pipe because there is no air moving through the pipe. If you were driving it wouldnt do that, the fluid gets carried into the motor and probably never even hits the other side of the pipe. where you mounted it is fine, I think the problem is your running 50/50. I wouldnt even run 75/25. just run it 100%

 

The tuning style for water/alky is not conventional.
Alot of care and time need to be put in. The results prove to be just as good if not stronger, cleaner and increases the overall longevity of the engine.
I know it hasn't been covered much but it is amazing what the water does with the heat it traps.
The increase in torque alone will tell the tale.

My two cents.

 

Absolutely. Same thing goes with running straight water. If you inject too much of it, power is going to drop horribly. The key is to inject just a teen tiny amount. Just enough so that the water breaks down and releases 02 into the charge. If you do this right, you'll see the AFR actually go slightly leaner with no other changes to the map. This means that you'll have to add fuel to get max power. That extra bump in VE (more o2) and charge temp reduction is where the power comes from. Kinda opposite to the way one tunes meth where all you do is add a bunch in, take out a bunch of fuel, raise boost and advance timing

my 2c,
shiv

 

I use the same SMC alcohol injection kit in my race evo. I have found that the method of injecting large amounts of alcohol reduces charge temps dramatically and supresses knock. Thus far, I have gone 9.98 in the 1/4 mile and made 746 whp using this method.

Water injection is ceratinly a well known and proven method to enhance power, however - it is a much milder form of power enhancement than methanol injection. With water injection you can make modest gains - particularly on weak octane fuels.

However, with alcohol you can make the same kind of power you can with leaded race fuel while using pump gas - which is the point.

 

This is completely false. If you refer to my previous post I completely disagree with your assumption. How many evos have you tuned or seen running straight water injection. And how would you tune a vehicle that injects water??
That alone will give me a clue to where this information came from.
Water injection in not a power enhancer. That is your first misconception about the form and function of an internal combustion engine.