Snow Performance questions and answers...
OK, I tapped the hose into the windshield washer container last night, it worked just fine. I was also able to tuck the pump below the washer reservoir and it fits great down there.
So for the power, you just ran a wire of the same gauge as the pump wire from the pos terminal back to the pump in the trunk and grounded the pump on the sheet metal in the trunk? What amp fuse did you put in the line?
(Yeah, I know I'm taking baby steps here. I'm not going to get tuned for the alky for about another 3 weeks, so I'm just putting in an hour here and an hour there to do this install)...
So for the power, you just ran a wire of the same gauge as the pump wire from the pos terminal back to the pump in the trunk and grounded the pump on the sheet metal in the trunk? What amp fuse did you put in the line?
(Yeah, I know I'm taking baby steps here. I'm not going to get tuned for the alky for about another 3 weeks, so I'm just putting in an hour here and an hour there to do this install)...
Never use smaller guage than pump leads all the way to fuse, and after fuse to bus.
The ground is just as important, use the same 14 gauge or larger wire but make sure the point is a good bonding area - just find an existing mitsu ground and tie in there to be on safe side.
Snow recommends 15 amp fuse for the pump. I'm using the SI so there's a 15 amp for system and a 10amp slow blow for the pump, since the pump isn't the system's backbone for catastophic failure - power to the SI is.
The ground is just as important, use the same 14 gauge or larger wire but make sure the point is a good bonding area - just find an existing mitsu ground and tie in there to be on safe side.
Snow recommends 15 amp fuse for the pump. I'm using the SI so there's a 15 amp for system and a 10amp slow blow for the pump, since the pump isn't the system's backbone for catastophic failure - power to the SI is.
Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; May 27, 2006 at 12:54 PM.
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
Never use smaller guage than pump leads all the way to fuse, and after fuse to bus.
The ground is just as important, use the same 14 gauge or larger wire but make sure the point is a good bonding area - just find an existing mitsu ground and tie in there to be on safe side.
Snow recommends 15 amp fuse for the pump. I'm using the SI so there's a 15 amp for system and a 10amp slow blow for the pump, since the pump isn't the system's backbone for catastophic failure - power to the SI is.
The ground is just as important, use the same 14 gauge or larger wire but make sure the point is a good bonding area - just find an existing mitsu ground and tie in there to be on safe side.
Snow recommends 15 amp fuse for the pump. I'm using the SI so there's a 15 amp for system and a 10amp slow blow for the pump, since the pump isn't the system's backbone for catastophic failure - power to the SI is.
In another thread, someone was complaining about the tank supplied in this kit. He felt that the pictures in a group buy were misleading, as they showed pictures of the kit using the windshield washer tank. I noticed from the beginning that the kit was supplied with a different tank, and the pictures in the group buy clearly state that they are using a different tank than what's supplied with the kit. So my question is how hard is it to install using the windshield washer tank? Is it any different the using the other tank? Are there any directions? To me, it seems like it wouldn't matter which tank you use, and that the directions should more or less be the same. Any help would be great, I really like this kit
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Yea some people like to try and make a stink about things no matter what you do or how clearly you try and lay it out. To install on your stock tank all you do is remove the fitting from the supplied tank (which the directions explain this whole process) and then you drill a hole in you stock tank and install the fitting. Very simple.
Originally Posted by Ultimate CC
Yea some people like to try and make a stink about things no matter what you do or how clearly you try and lay it out. To install on your stock tank all you do is remove the fitting from the supplied tank (which the directions explain this whole process) and then you drill a hole in you stock tank and install the fitting. Very simple.
Originally Posted by Eshark
In another thread, someone was complaining about the tank supplied in this kit.
I want to pay for a product with co. budget dedicated to reliable performance of the system, not car specific reservoir engineering.
Last I saw of my Snow supplied tank was in the backyard where my kids used it as a dirt holder - I think they plan use it as a home for frogs.
OT:
Dan, are you using the 375ml nozzle or have used the 675ml one yet?
Here's pics of my windshield washer reservoir all ready for action. I didn't tap the Snow hose at the bottom of the reservoir because I wasn't sure about getting the pump to sit under the reservoir and I didn't want to have any severe bends in the hose.
I measured the water in the "unuseable" portion of the reservoir and it's about 28oz of fluid that won't be used. That still leaves 100oz of useable alcohol in the tank.


It's stupid how easy it is to tap the line into the stock reservoir, you just reuse the parts that were supplied with the universal tank.
I measured the water in the "unuseable" portion of the reservoir and it's about 28oz of fluid that won't be used. That still leaves 100oz of useable alcohol in the tank.


It's stupid how easy it is to tap the line into the stock reservoir, you just reuse the parts that were supplied with the universal tank.
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Looks good, I tapped mine between the two stock pumps but I like your location as well. I am still running 375ml nozzle, haven't found a need for a larger one yet...
One more thing....what LED indicator lights come with the kit. From the looks of Snow's website it comes with a Power LED, and the Low tank and/or low pressure LED's are extra?
Sorry for all the questions, but the lack of failsafes have kept me away from alky injection. Safe injection has changed my mind. My ECU+ will pull timing if it knocks, and safe injections plus the solenoid will drop boost.
Sorry for all the questions, but the lack of failsafes have kept me away from alky injection. Safe injection has changed my mind. My ECU+ will pull timing if it knocks, and safe injections plus the solenoid will drop boost.


