Dan will it be possible for you to do what this guy did

and post rmp/afr/boost/flow plots?

seeing is believing....

the results i saw were less than ideal...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=295728



Abner

 

All,

Here are some pics of the install...

Pic 1 - Pump and tank installed in the trunk. I like having the tank in the fender well. Any ideas where to remount to pump if I remove the custom box?

Pic 2 - Progessive controller mounted in the glovebox... If you can read it, the controller has four error codes 1 - Low fluid, 2 - Open, 3 - Short, 4 - Volts

Pic 3 - A-Pillar gauges: AEM True-boost controller on the bottom. The top gauge is a water pressure gauge from the when I had the Coolingmist kit installed. I removed the water pressure sensor when the AEM kit was installed and the gauge is now in-op (Note: I never thought this pressure gauge was always reliable and it had a few issues). The small rounded red LED from Radio Shack is for the AEM kit which glows full when spraying and blinks if there is a fault code detected. Thinking to reinstall the sensor and keep the water pressure gauge or get the Aquamist DDS3 failsafe and remove the old pressure gauge... any thoughts here? I think the DDS3 would be the desired and "extra" safe option; but also more expensive.

Pic 4 - Pump mounted to inside of custom box in trunk (the box originally housed the Coolingmist trunk mount kit)... kept the box; haven't decided if I will relocate the pump and remove the box yet.

Let me know if you have any questions concerning the pics.

 

Here is a A/F graph after installing the AEM kit... Dyno run after install of AEM Water/Meth kit and HKS MIVEC cams.

I know someone is going to ask why the A/R ratio goes rich at about 7,000 RPM... This is an OEM issue according to the tuners I've spoken with... The OEM base map goes rich just like my A/F graph. I plan to have my map adjusted the next time I go for a tune on the dyno. I surmise the reason for this might be because Mitsubishi set up the OEM maps to go rich at high RPM's as a safety measure. I am not a tuner or expert; just an enthusiast. If someone knows otherwise, please let us know.

 

this is what i see playing with meth injection

you got to pay to play...

you pay now - pay less

you pay more when a failure occurs and your motor is toast

 

what jet size do you have on there?

 

Slowcar,

Honestly, I am not sure what size nozzle was used when my kit was installed. I know the kit came with three size nozzles. I want to say the medium size nozzle was used when installed; but, I have no idea what sizes were in the kit. Anyway, I'm planning to find out from the installer which nozzle was installed.

In your experience, what size is the right size?

Thanks,

Jay

 

Great, another company copies my Start Psi, Full Psi design of a variable controller I am flattered that the industry likes the concept so much.

Thanks for the post of the dyno, looks good. Does go rich some in the mid range. But again shows good results from a progressive pump speed system based on engine load. You should be able to add more boost as you are below 11 A/F. With 50/50 mix you should shoot for 12 A/F. Also maybe adjust your Start dial lower so it comes on a little sooner. The start of injection seems slow with that controller.

So looks like the only Fail Safe of the AEM is monitoring current to the pump. So not a true fail safe. Would detect a clogged nozzle as pump current will go up to 12amps in that case.

Best regards,

Dan

Edit: Hmmm intersting, just noticed that AEM also copied the exact dial settings of our VC-25 controller for Start and Full.

 

Dan,

If you have a moment could you provide some clarification to a couple things?

You should be able to add more boost as you are below 11 A/F. So, I can increase the boost on my EBC (increase the duty cycle), correct? My concern is with the AEM EBC I am already peaking about 27 PSI with the stock turbo. And, I believe the efficiency of the stock turbo maxes out about 26-27 psi. If I increase boost a "tad" and my A/F still 12, how much peak boost should I be looking at without needing to worry too much about the stock turbo or its efficiency?

Also maybe adjust your Start dial lower so it comes on a little sooner. I will definately give this a try... if this was "your" controller, where would you adjust the Start dial to engage?

So looks like the only Fail Safe of the AEM is monitoring current to the pump. So not a true fail safe. Would detect a clogged nozzle as pump current will go up to 12amps in that case. I am seriously considering the Aquamist DDS3 v8 in addition to what fail safes the AEM is monitoring. I've seen some of the installs of these posted and seems very envolved. Any idea how many "man-hours" I am looking at for my local shop (in LA) to install? Any other fail safes devices/systems you recommend?

Thank you,

Jay

P.S. The AEM controller did look quite familar to me... the dial settings are exactly the same as your VC-25 for Start and Full.

 

The stock turbo is not going to hold 27psi to read line as your already know. So no need to up boost outside of efficiency range as all you will be doing is blowing hotter air.

Were are your settings right now at for Start and Full? Without knowing off hand I would suggest lowering Start 1-2psi. Once the onset is good, then increase the Full a few psi or set it to max. This should help lean it out some and you should pick up some more hp. What type of fluid are you spraying, 50/50 or 100%?

We manufacture the IFS-10 Injection Fail Safe. Install time would honestly be about 30min or less. Here is a link to it on the website:

http://www.labontemotorsports.com/st...onitoring.html

Cut your hose between pump and nozzle and plug it into the labeled connectors on the IFS. Three wires to hook up, power ground, and GREEN output trigger.
Also has Yellow wire that output analog flow signal. Can be used with one of our flow gauges or to data log injection.

It has two modes of operation, one like the DDS3 that holds boost low until there is enough fluid flow, or you can hook it up to lower boost if flow drops below a set point. Since AEM followed our design with their controller outputting a 12v signal in the event of a fault, should be compatible with your set up.

(BTW AEM, Patent Pending on this one )

Best regards,

Dan

 

Sorry if this is off topic from AEM stuff, but would like to point out the other latest copy of our controller, the snow boost / maf controller



Wow that looks so familiar. What a great design snow, you should be proud of that after months of hard work

See the black barb sticking out of the back? That is the Motorola MPX series boost sensor. We did away with that a while back because if you break the hose barb the controller is dead.

Greg at snow used to complain to me about the adjustment dials. Funny thing is that they go ahead and copy the same thing. Go figure. The main reason for the recessed dials is that our controller is designed to be installed in the engine bay. You don't want to be bumping the settings and messing up your tune when wrenching on your engine.

(BTW snow, Patent Pending)

 

Dan,

Thank you... and, Happy New Year!!! I am spraying 50/50. I'll check my settings tomorrow, but you've given me a great starting point.

As far as your IFS-10 Injection Fail Safe... SOLD!!! expect my order in the next couple days. I think this is the "best value" for my needs. The DDS3 has a lot of features that maybe I don't need... and, the install is going to take whoever I pay a lot longer than 30 minutes to install. After looking at the IFS, I'm pretty sure I can install myself. As you might have noticed in my previous post, I have a pressure sensor gauge from the previous kit that was installed. Do you think it might work with the IFS? what is the output used for your gauge? 0-5 VDC? If your gauge is special to the IFS then please let me know so I can order as together.

Lastly, I was reading some post/info about my EBC and WGA... according to the AEM Tru-boost instructions the "waste gate spring pressure" should match the WGA.

"Spring Pressure: (SPr – 2.00)
Enter the waste gate spring pressure. The Tru Boost will keep the boost
solenoid open from 1 psi until boost exceeds the selected value. This value can be
adjusted to reduce lead in boost spikes or reduce spool up time. If the spring pressure is unknown, a conservative starting value of 5 is suggested."

I am using the FP 18PSI WGA and I know my EBC's spring pressure is set to 16. I am going to adjust to 18. Do you think this may affect my boost pressure from dropping off as much as the A/F graph I posted previously? i.e., gain a few HP?

Thanks again,

Jay

 

Churchja,

Thank you for stepping up and being the first to post real pics and data. I really appreciate it!

 

The IFS-10 analog flow output signal is .1volts per 100ml/min. Our Flow Gauges are adjusted for this reading. Using your pressure gauge would depend on what the input scaling is calibrated for. Some read a resistance others a voltage.

I have not tested the Tru Boost myself, so can only suggest you follow recommended settings and set spring pressure to match your installed spring. If you are referring to boost pressure dropping as you go to redline, this is do to the output capacity of the stock turbo and a boost controller will not help hold 27psi to redline. Stock turbo can not push enough air to hold 27psi til redline so boost pressure will hit your peak pressure and then drop off.

Best regards,

Dan

 

Dan,

Thanks again for the info and recommendations. I wanted to let you know I just placed my order for the IFS-10 with the red LED pressure gauge.

Best regards,

J. A. Church