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Aquamist HFS-1 alky kit install

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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:02 PM
  #16  
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Search around this forum for pics on that, but sorta, yea...
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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the 5qt tank is VERY close to being to big. because of this i stopped selling them for that mounting location. it can (and will) dent your fender from the inside out when you try to take the cap off.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #18  
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whats up with your kits? are you going to be doing more? i have some interest in an HFS-5 since i have been reading and talking to you all.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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Was out of town for a few days and I'm trying to not let the install kill me or time with my fam, so just taking my time I have my BSP tap on order, so it will not be completed until then for certain. Tomorrow night I should finish the wiring and then just wait to cut the hole in the UICP for testing, then its dyno time!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #20  
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Well it was *really* nice out today and after a few days out of town I was excited to get some time in on this project. First thing I did was yank the tank and flip the float sensor over into the correct orientation, I felt like a dumbass about that one but it was nice that everything came apart so nicely

I then ran power and my small hose to the engine bay, and mounted the flow sensor and valve to the right of the glovebox (thanks for the tip KevinD!). I am focusing on keeping the wiring as clean as possible so I did not finish tonight.

Extra hose wrapped up in case I want to extend this bit further into the engine bay:


Mounted valve and flow sensor (tucked to the right):


All is well when everything is where it should be and you end up with this. Wiring leads for all of the sensors. Thank you aquamist for keeping everything semi color coded!


Nice and tidy:


There's a nice spot just above the glove box that this will be secured to. For now its just in the glove box while I test everything out and get the DDS dialed in. The wires to teh top right will be tie wrapped a bit more so they're all out of the way:


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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 06:28 AM
  #21  
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nice stuff....keep it comin!
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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woot! major milestone tonight, wired in the kit to the factory ecu harness, not sure how ya can get much cleaner than this:



And voila, the DDS is alive!



Still gotta wire up the dimmer, main power, and fill the tank....its so close I can taste the alcohol!
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 07:00 AM
  #23  
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very nice install...strong connections, shrink tubing!

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #24  
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I have to credit Jack_of_trades on here for info on pulling the ecu pins, this is a trick I've never known how to do. Wiring like this is easy and SO much cleaner than using wire taps.

http://www.dsm-ezine.com/evoVIII_adc_switch.html
(how-to vids are at the bottom)
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by scheides
I have to credit Jack_of_trades on here for info on pulling the ecu pins, this is a trick I've never known how to do. Wiring like this is easy and SO much cleaner than using wire taps.

http://www.dsm-ezine.com/evoVIII_adc_switch.html
(how-to vids are at the bottom)
I'm glad my videos helped you out It's just as easy to do it the right way when you know the path lol. Another tip; it would be good to zip tie the new wires to the factory harness a few inches behind your soldered connections. This will help take the stress off of the connections if anything pulls on the wires. Have faith in Tephra, he'll find a way to get your ROM ID to work with the alt map setup, he's a smart fella

I will be testing out some new failsafes for the alky kits this spring/summer for Tephra's v5.1 updates in the future (some designed especially the aquamist systems). I'm looking to be able to monitor a TON of parameters and I am building a failsafe control unit which will accept MANY failsafe inputs of all kinds to protect your investment 100%.

Ever wonder what percentage of alky-to-gasoline mixture you have during your WOT powerband? You'll be datalogging that on a graph in no time

Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Mar 13, 2008 at 02:38 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 10:39 AM
  #26  
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Last night I finished the wiring around midnight. I was at a wedding rehearsal and now I'm off to the wedding, but I managed to get in some testing!


Spraying on the windshield just to make sure all is dandy. My BSP tap should be here today, so tomorrow AM I'll yank the UICP, drill the hole, tap it, and install the jet adapter.

Last edited by scheides; Mar 14, 2008 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Originally Posted by scheides
well cross your fingers that it all works as planned! If tephra can hook me up with the code for the 05 (there's space issues I guess) and I can find the time to finish this install (going out of town for a few days) we should have some results in the next week or so. Once I have both maps fully tuned, I will try doing a run on the dyno with alky enabled then turn off the DDS half-way through and see if it works properly
Nice It took me probably 4 days working on it a few hours here and there and when your doing it all by yourself its time consuming but hey its by "yourself" I'm using the mac valve with my mbc for failsafe. But the map switching sounds awesome just not sure how that would work with a mbc? I like the install so far & good luck finishing it all up
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #28  
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Recovering from a wedding celebration today so I'm moving a little slow, but I'm just about ready to do a real test. I have my UICP back in the car with the Aquamist jet adapter installed. BSP tap worked perfectly with the 11/32 bit. A good bit of blue threadlock on it and it should hold boost.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 12:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wesside
Nice It took me probably 4 days working on it a few hours here and there and when your doing it all by yourself its time consuming but hey its by "yourself" I'm using the mac valve with my mbc for failsafe. But the map switching sounds awesome just not sure how that would work with a mbc? I like the install so far & good luck finishing it all up

Even at the same boost level (even if you peak at 30psi) you can detune the car to run without the alky. You simply tune your car with the "Alternate" maps for use with high boost and alky, then tune the standard map for high boost without the alky. If you trigger a failsafe or simply run out of alky, you have less power available but you still can run 100% safely and still have a good amount of power on tap. Screw that 17psi failsafe crap,lol.

Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Mar 15, 2008 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:24 PM
  #30  
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From: Slc Utah aka SL,UT
Originally Posted by Jack_of_Trades
Even at the same boost level (even if you peak at 30psi) you can detune the car to run without the alky. You simply tune your car with the "Alternate" maps for use with high boost and alky, then tune the standard map for high boost without the alky. If you trigger a failsafe or simply run out of alky, you have less power available but you still can run 100% safely and still have a good amount of power on tap. Screw that 12psi failsafe crap,lol.
Nice I've already have a great pre-alky map I'm just a little confused though because If I run outta alky and alt-map switch I'd still have to pop hood and adjust boost via mbc. Is wastegate 12psi? I thought it was like 14-17 if its tightened? Sorry if these seem like stuipd questions.

From what I understand if it alt-map switched the boost limit would be changed via ecu and it wouldn't let it peak the 30psi?
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