Aquamist HFS-1 alky kit install
The v5.0 PATCH is setup so if the Alky kit outputs 5v to the ECU ADC input, the ECU runs the AGGRESSIVE ALT maps with Alky. If there is a failsafe triggered, the Alky kit needs to output 0v and the STANDARD "Safer" maps are triggered. Tephra set it up that way so in any case that a wire connection comes loose or something and the ECU doesn't get the 5v inout, its running the safer of the two maps.
Since you added the GM BCS you can defintiely tune for a HIGH boost "ALKY" map and a LOW boost "NO ALKY" map without having to run wastegate boost levels. I don't know how low you can get the GM BCS go but around 28-30psi with ALKY and around 23-24psi WITHOUT ALKY would be pretty good for most users. The v5.0 PATCH is only the beginning for ALKY KIT users. It will get more advanced as we all use it and find out the little tweaks we all prefer
Since you added the GM BCS you can defintiely tune for a HIGH boost "ALKY" map and a LOW boost "NO ALKY" map without having to run wastegate boost levels. I don't know how low you can get the GM BCS go but around 28-30psi with ALKY and around 23-24psi WITHOUT ALKY would be pretty good for most users. The v5.0 PATCH is only the beginning for ALKY KIT users. It will get more advanced as we all use it and find out the little tweaks we all prefer
What you described is exactly what I have intended and stated since post #1. 
I do not want more than one switch, I want fully-tuned high boost if my dds is on and active and fully-tuned low boost if my dds detects an alky failure or I simply push the on/off button on the dds gauge. I have designed the entire car around this, and as long as I can get tephra v5 working properly, I will be in business!
I do not want more than one switch, I want fully-tuned high boost if my dds is on and active and fully-tuned low boost if my dds detects an alky failure or I simply push the on/off button on the dds gauge. I have designed the entire car around this, and as long as I can get tephra v5 working properly, I will be in business!Do you use a direct output voltage from the HFS kit to jack's ecu pin or do you actually switch the line (like an electronic version of your manual switch with power sourced from the ECU)?
I think I'm going to try to use my AEM 3 port since I already have it and wouldn't mind keeping the digital gauge from the tru-boost. If nothing else, I've heard the GM sounds like a little machine gun in your engine bay when it is activated (my OEM unit sounded like this when it got really cold out). Is yours loud also?
I plan on wiring it using this diagram that I worked with RichardL @ aquamist to develop:
It should be a simple test to see if there is 0v when the system is off and around 5v when the system is on.
It should be a simple test to see if there is 0v when the system is off and around 5v when the system is on.
Yup, I will be testing with the 220K (or I have a 240K, actually), and see how it works. I will switch to the 4.7 zener diode if there is any chance of it not working correctly.
If you are using a zener (which is a much better setup), I suggest changing the 220K resistor to 1K. There is a 5V1 zener.
(please let me know if this is OT and needs to be moved, but I think it could help with future installs)
Jack, any reason the diode is parrallel with the pulldown resistor? Excuse my limited circuitry knowledge if there is a simple answer. (I'm guessing it is there to get rid of ground loop noise but the pulldown has to be able to get around the diode to actually work)
Also, is there anything wrong with pulling the 12v source from somewhere other than the ECU since its more of a static ouput and shouldn't need to match whatever voltage the ECU is seeing? I prefer to not tap that harness when possible (but understand how something like the LC-1 would want power from this line).
Jack, any reason the diode is parrallel with the pulldown resistor? Excuse my limited circuitry knowledge if there is a simple answer. (I'm guessing it is there to get rid of ground loop noise but the pulldown has to be able to get around the diode to actually work)
Also, is there anything wrong with pulling the 12v source from somewhere other than the ECU since its more of a static ouput and shouldn't need to match whatever voltage the ECU is seeing? I prefer to not tap that harness when possible (but understand how something like the LC-1 would want power from this line).
Last edited by fostytou; Mar 18, 2008 at 01:21 PM.
(please let me know if this is OT and needs to be moved, but I think it could help with future installs)
Jack, any reason the diode is parrallel with the pulldown resistor? Excuse my limited circuitry knowledge if there is a simple answer. (I'm guessing it is there to get rid of ground loop noise but the pulldown has to be able to get around the diode to actually work)
Also, is there anything wrong with pulling the 12v source from somewhere other than the ECU since its more of a static ouput and shouldn't need to match whatever voltage the ECU is seeing? I prefer to not tap that harness when possible (but understand how something like the LC-1 would want power from this line).
Jack, any reason the diode is parrallel with the pulldown resistor? Excuse my limited circuitry knowledge if there is a simple answer. (I'm guessing it is there to get rid of ground loop noise but the pulldown has to be able to get around the diode to actually work)
Also, is there anything wrong with pulling the 12v source from somewhere other than the ECU since its more of a static ouput and shouldn't need to match whatever voltage the ECU is seeing? I prefer to not tap that harness when possible (but understand how something like the LC-1 would want power from this line).
There is nothing wrong with getting power from a separate source, this is just to keep everything in one location. Maximum current draw is around 21mA.
Richard, Tephra feels more comfortable with people using a 4.7v 1 watt zener diode since even at +5% tolerance it won't exceed 5v. I'm updating my diagrams tonight to show a 4.7 zener.
The 10K ohm resistor is there to eliminate line noise while the system is off, seeing as the the resistor offers a lesser path of resistance than the zener when less than 5v is available, since it is being used in a reverse bias configuration. I suck at explaining that stuff but Richard will chime in here, I have a feeling
I was going to wait until next winter to plan out a meth install, but you guys are getting me all excited and making me want to jump ship on my e85 plans!
Last edited by fostytou; Mar 18, 2008 at 04:17 PM.
I was starting to build a frequency to voltage converter so we could use the GM flexfuel sensor with our ECU. If I ever get caught up with my other mini-prjects, I hope to have this working as well. Talk to MrFred, he's really anxious to get the Interpolating maps/Ethanol sensor setup working.
Also, you mentioned the LC-1 getting power from the ECU harness. Thats definitely worse than tapping the switching harness off the ECU. Personally, I'd give the LC-1 the cleanest power source I could. I'm pretty sure they prefer you ground it on the engine block too.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Mar 18, 2008 at 04:22 PM.
I was starting to build a frequency to voltage converter so we could use the GM flexfuel sensor with our ECU. If I ever get caught up with my other mini-prjects, I hope to have this working as well. Talk to MrFred, he's really anxious to get the Interpolating maps/Ethanol sensor setup working.
Also, you mentioned the LC-1 getting power from the ECU harness. Thats definitely worse than tapping the switching harness off the ECU. Personally, I'd give the LC-1 the cleanest power source I could. I'm pretty sure they prefer you ground it on the engine block too.
Also, you mentioned the LC-1 getting power from the ECU harness. Thats definitely worse than tapping the switching harness off the ECU. Personally, I'd give the LC-1 the cleanest power source I could. I'm pretty sure they prefer you ground it on the engine block too.
A flexfuel sensor would probably make the evo the greatest car that ever existed! I'm very impressed to see this amount of collaboration on your parts!
As far as the LC-1 was concerned, I went back and checked the innovate video and they actually recommend tapping the ecu ground, not power. That makes a bit more sense. Initially I was thinking the cleaner power/ground the better, but I listened to the Germans on my 1g install a couple of years ago. Really, I have no proof either way, but "Clause" seems to know what he is talking about