If you have your alky kit setup to have the failsafes AUTOMATICALLY switch to the safer maps in the event of a failsafe trigger, it will switch maps on its own. If you use a MBC without any sort of bypass solenoid to lower the boost level to whatever the wastegates spring pressure is (I think you're right, it is around 17psi), then you simply need to tune both maps for the same boost you run with the alky kit activated.

If you use ECU controlled boost, you can have the boost level lowered when the failsafes kick in.

 

Jamie,

Thanks for chiming in. I will be downloading your alt-map instruction and make a new wiring instruction to interface with it. As am writing, I am designing in the interface on the newer version of the DDS3v8.

This is the best thing ever happen to the EVO community. Keep up with the good work.

 

Thanks Richard. If I can stop this black cloud from following me, I can get this crap finished lol. This is how my last month and a half as been:

• FLU
• MONO
• Clutch is 99% gone, can't boost at ALL
• Evo slides on sand and hops a curb at 35MPH!(needed 4 new tires and inner tie rod)
• Evo Head Gasket blows
• Next day, Put Talon on road. Blows tranny seal...father helps me get towed home
• Next day, Father has 2 heart attacks
• Monday, Father getting double bypass heart surgery

So everything I touch breaks right now,lol. I'm typing this with gloves on to be safe lol.

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles Jack. Hope everything works out. And thanks to you for this great writeup man it is simply amazing.

 

When it rains it pours..But remember there's always Sunshine in the end!!

 

Finished up the basic install today!

I have my UICP back in the car with the Aquamist jet adapter installed. BSP tap worked perfectly with the 11/32 bit. A good bit of blue threadlock on it and it should hold boost.

The car drives like a DREAM! Switched back to my old 26psi alky map from my SMC kit and the car freaking hauls *** now. Needs a tune though, there are some definite weird spots and I want to see what a few more psi does. I also need to get a solid pump gas tune, then the car will be all set for the tephra map switching hack!

1mm nozzle installed and ready to rock! Note the damage leftover from my SMC nozzle gone wrong....


Power lead with fuse right as it leaves the battery:


The only pic I'm missing now is one of the huge-*** smile on my face! This kit has been a good job to install but it is worth every penny and every minute I took to do it right. My only fear now is that I won't go back and finish the little things I still have left: a permanent mount for the DDS gauge, extend the length of the power wire a bit, wrap up the last bit (about a foot) of alky hose going into the UICP so its protected and cleaner (i.e. wrapped in black), tap into the dimmer, and then need to secure the dds junction box somewhere once I get the trigger dialed in. I have it set to start around 15psi now, I'd like it to be just a tad higher. I'm sure I'll find time for these little things in the next few days. I'm too close now to give up

I also got my set of off-brand krank vents from s2Kracka today, I will post more on these once I've tried them out more, but they will go with my new catch can nicely! PM for more info on those.



wesside, I am using the GM BCS for boost control, so I will be running about 24psi w/o alky and 26-30 with it. I know you can tune for 30psi on pump gas, but I'm not going to do it, too much crap gas in some spots where I travel

 

After seeing the new threads with Razorlabs dyno results regarding the GM 3 port boost solenoid setup, it's just foolish to use a MBC on these cars anymore. Its like throwing HP out the window, plus you get to have the added benefit of switching the maps and changing the boost levels, can't hate that

 

Hmmm I'm going to try to research this some more

 

I love my alky kit I love my alky kit I love my alky kit! My old tune works pretty dang good, 26psi the car freaking rips. Of course it is snowing like a bugger here in MN today so instead of tearing it up too much I will instead schedule some dyno time and get this hog dialed in! Next week spring officially starts and I will be ready! Getting my summer wheels/tires rebalanced and an alignment done, the 235-17 all-seasons I am on now do not have any grip in 1st or 2nd gear in anything but perfectly dry and clean (i.e. not gravel/sandy) pavement (tested on Saturday).

Here's a pic of the overall engine bay at the time of this writing:


Last dyno run was 305whp on dyno dynamics, since then I've added a testpipe w/ buschur bullet muffler, SS o2 housing, ported hotside, ported exhaust manifold, IX turbo, ported intake manifold, 65mm tbody, GM BCS, and the aquamist hfs-1. And a fidanza 9lb flywheel which may add like 1whp Any bets on new numbers?

 

307whp?

 

Thank you Richard with the price-is-right $1 bid. Do they even have that show over there?

 

I'm so glad that things are coming together for everyone.

My recommendation to you to finish up the install would be to ditch the manual switch if possible and use the on/off feature of your HFS-1 (if available) to clamp the connection for the "jack" ecu mod when the DDS3 sets the system to on or "no failure". That way it will be a 1 button affair to go from standard to high boost, and you won't have to run wastegate pressure if there is a fault.

Also, for anyone who has a sub in that corner or does not want to pull off the panel to get to the tank... flambou also makes a remote filler cup that you can hook on to the sides of your trunk. Glad to see that your bracket fit well, this may advance my plans to be a meth head a bit!

Thanks for sharing!

 

The v5.0 PATCH is setup so if the Alky kit outputs 5v to the ECU ADC input, the ECU runs the AGGRESSIVE ALT maps with Alky. If there is a failsafe triggered, the Alky kit needs to output 0v and the STANDARD "Safer" maps are triggered. Tephra set it up that way so in any case that a wire connection comes loose or something and the ECU doesn't get the 5v inout, its running the safer of the two maps.

Since you added the GM BCS you can defintiely tune for a HIGH boost "ALKY" map and a LOW boost "NO ALKY" map without having to run wastegate boost levels. I don't know how low you can get the GM BCS go but around 28-30psi with ALKY and around 23-24psi WITHOUT ALKY would be pretty good for most users. The v5.0 PATCH is only the beginning for ALKY KIT users. It will get more advanced as we all use it and find out the little tweaks we all prefer

 

What you described is exactly what I have intended and stated since post #1. I do not want more than one switch, I want fully-tuned high boost if my dds is on and active and fully-tuned low boost if my dds detects an alky failure or I simply push the on/off button on the dds gauge. I have designed the entire car around this, and as long as I can get tephra v5 working properly, I will be in business!

 

I will be making a "FAILSAFE CONTROL UNIT" this summer so you can have a TON of failsafe inputs hooked up to the ECU and a manual override switch as well. I am trying to make an LED display that can also tell you when the failsafes have been triggered and which trigger was the culprit (I might incorporate a LED BAR flow sensor meter too like the DDS3 gauge has for the non-Aquamist kits who purchase a flow sensor separately). That way you don't have to rip apart the car to check E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G if something is setting it off. RichardL is all over this new v5.0 patch and has been working on changes to the future versions to take full advantage of it.