Noo! Richard, don't come out with a better kit, I won't be able to stand it!

Then again, I am *really* happy with this kit so far. Bring it on man!

 

Since my car is down for repairs, I can't test the failsafe system fully yet. Wanna see how well the failsafe system really works for us on a video?? Run it with the DDS3 on and during a pull, turn it off and see if it drops boost and safely switches to your failsafe tune. I'd datalog it to see if you get any "map transfer knock" or anything like that. This would be VERY helpful data to see.

I know Tephra has a load setting in his v5 patch which I BELIEVE is set so it can't ever go from the "SAFE" maps to the more aggressive ALT maps once you've exceed this load value (110% is default I think). I also believe that you need to fall below that load value again before it will finally switch back to the ALT maps. This is good though. You want it to be able to switch to the SAFE maps anytime but you certainly dont want it switching to a more aggressive tune while at 200+ load and at 7000rpm.

 

Will the map switcher work for the IX?

 

yes it will, visit the v5 patch here to see which ROM ID's are currently available.

link:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=332778

 

I will test out the transition from high to low and log it. I have some basic video of when the system runs low on alky, and it does switch in this case. I too am curious about the transition knock. I leave for vacay in a day so we'll see....

 

Well then, get busy! lol

 

currently installing my hfs1 kit and got two problems. one the green and red wires that are suppose to go to the ecu pins. do i have to install those wires at the ecu pins or can i just tap into the injector? umm.. on there is shows that the green and red wires go to the ecu pins and then to an injector... does that just show you what those wires are for or do i need to tap into an injector also?... think thats it

oh. and can i see some of your guys's intake installs? i was thiknin about going from the bottom but doing it from the top would be easier. i live in cali though so the cops are d*cks here so thats why i was thinin bottom. let me see some pix though .

sorry to jack thread if i did. thought this would be a good place to put it since your doing an install already of th same kit .

 

It is better to install the red and green wire at the ECU end for sure. The red wire is for power and Green is for sensing the IDC %.

Don't mount the jet at 6 o'clock due to possible oil contamination. 8 or 4 o'clock is better.

 

oil contaminaion?. i had the snow kit mounted at 6 and it worked fine. :-/

 

Just tap into the wiring harness at the ECU. It is *really* easy to get to, and if you follow the link I posted to jack_of_trades videos, it makes tapping the wires there a snap and SUPER clean. The other thing is, you will probably be mounting the DDS Junction box in the glove box area, which is right next to the ECU, making it very condusive for running a few leads to the ecu harness.

 

Here is the link to the videos again.


http://www.dsm-ezine.com/evoVIII_adc_switch.html

Scroll down to the bottom of the page. ITs not exactly the same for the EVO IX's but I will posting pics on how to pull the EVO IX pins on that website real soon.

 

These connectors are prettry clever.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

 

You need to be able to feed the wire THRU the posi-tap base. If was gonna TAP onto a wire, I don't want to have to remove it from anything to needle it thru a hole in the wire tap. The 3M taps snap right onto the existing wire pretty well but I never would risk engine failure on ANY connection in this setup other than a soldered connection. Why take a risk, right?

 

I know very little about this type of connector, I have never used or seen one. It seemed to be a good idea.

I agree 100%, nothing can beat a soldered joint, especially the risk is far great if the connection are not reliable.

 

Ok, I did not log it, and I did not video tape it, but today I did several WOT runs in 4th gear with the alky enabled, and halfway through the run I gritted my teeth and kinda crossed my fingers as I pushed the power button on my DDS. The car dropped down to low boost, fuel, and timing maps instantly, and I saw Z E R O knock. This is just plain kick ***, I don't know what else to say. It works perfectly.


I say watch the videos that Jack_of_trades made and just do it the right way. It honestly was SUPER easy and I would do it again the same way in a heartbeat.