A lot of folks have lamented that unless you have the 2JZ "Turbo" based motor the amount of boost and the amount of safety overhead makes the "NA" to "Turbo" really frustrating. The main difference seems to be the oil squirters behind each piston. You cannot have a high amount of boost (beyond 6psi from memory if it serves me) on the NA modified motor. You're always fighting the heat loading thing. The next funny question is finding a Supra based 2JZ motor to drop in and wanting to play around with all of the knicky knacks "until it works."
That being said, the IS300 makes probably one of the, if not "the" ultimate sleeper. I'd even rank it past the Supra in chassis and suspension performance.
Can I have a ride in the back seat once its done?
0.02
~j.

 

Anybody know how to switch out the clock spring without having the airbag blow up in your face

 

Just wear a football helmet





FSM only shows disconnecting the neg battery terminal when replacing the clock spring.

 

that could work. I think it would still throw me through my seat tho which would be a sad day for the brides.

Alright thanks josh

 

I love supra's and the 2jz but it be nice to have even half of that power in a is300 and it has a back seat I've been researching a little this week on boosting the 2jz-ge vs the 2jz-gte and the difference is really what you've stated. I think 6-10psi is plenty ha I figure even if to start..suspension, wheels etc then go towards power is where I'd go..as every car I've ever owned suspension is first thing because I hate 4x4 mode

I like your 0.02 I don't need to add anymore then you have

 

Gently used though? We're taking 35k miles or fewer, 2007 or newer. That's a killer deal. I think a few years down the road maybe I'll pick up like a 2012 135i convertible for my sporty summer convertible that I want (since by then, finding a good shape S2000 will be pretty difficult...)

 

miles and other things can determine a cars price I'm sure any 2007 car with under 35k is going to make a huge difference on price range.

why 135i convertible ? is it hardtop? If not I say no 135i is growing on me since all the M1 promo videos etc..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DbHj4HUvKk


SICK!!

 

That was the point I was trying to make (and I think Timmay too). You can find just about any car for just about any price. But a 335 in the SAME condition as that Evo you posted for the SAME price. Good luck.

The MINI was a 2007 with 22k miles on it

And no the 335ci is the hardtop, the 135 is ragtop. Convertible because I want another one to have fun in the sun with. 135 because it is reasonably priced, reasonably fast, reasonably convenient. If I don't have the money for that though, it'll be an S2000 or Miata for sure.

 

Hey guys!!
Just picked up a Evo IX, found a deal on a stock one I couldn't pass up. I'm looking into getting an alarm installed on it, but I don't want someone just hacking around under my dash anyone have some recommendations on a local shop?

Also it pulls left under acceleration dealer is telling me it's torque steer.. Any opinions? It seems like a lca bushing to me, but it's not doing it under hard breaking

Edit: I guess I also should note it tracks perfect except under acceleration.. Part throttle seems to be worse than WOT, 5th gear on the highway trying to pass is the worst.

 

S2000 > miata

Don't get a miata

 

Could be bushings, could also be tires, air pressure, ride height, or suspension ... possibly (hard to tell) a bad alignment. Could also be a bit of torque steer, but I'm a little low on knowledge in this area. I've spent enough time on suspension issues on the Evo to have a pretty good idea. It never hurts to upgrade the bushings right out of the box.

Yes don't allow somebody to hack into your wiring harness. The radio has "switched" power and a "constant" power in the same part of the harness. I'd suggest they tap off of the radio interface and the best deal would be to build a breakout "from" the radio connector directly. A new radio connector is a pretty cheap investment from trying to Y-in or tie-into the harness directly. They may also consider coming from the turbo timer harness which is in the e-brake console area.

Regardless I'd spend the little extra for a couple of things ... insurance rates that'll replace your car, and alarm insurance in case somebody just busts a window which is what they do anyways.

Its been a little while since I've probed there, and I didn't make good enough notes last time. If anybody else wants to chime in, feel free.

~j.

 

Welcome congrats on the purchase! You didn't happen to buy a graphite gray one and go to hopper fireworks did you?

I've personally never have felt any torque steer in the 2 evos I've drove.

The radio is a good place to tap into. You can also tap into the clock. That's where I did my gauges to.

 

I never experienced torque steer in my old evo or any other evo I've driven..to think about it only fwd that ever gave me torque steer.

btw this is300 hunt is difficult and I'm now so I gotta do something asap..there all auto with 5speed auto e-shift..which might be nice since I'm not racing atm just driving to work...I'm driving to steal one away from a guy for super cheap it's clean 2002. I could work on wheels, suspension then move onto the rest later plus I could buy a cheap beater winter car honda or whatever...

your 0.02 on that?

 

hmm same pattern as evo 5x114.3 I know where some of these are

good setup eh

http://kyoei-usa.com/blog/2010/08/ar...ation-feature/

 

speaking of m coupes, check out our buddy's M coupe putting some sick numbers down with an oil less turbo set up!

http://www.utahpace.com/forums/showt...1331#post21331