David,

You really haven't answered some of the pertinent questions.

What kind of boost is programmed into the ecu? 19 psi until redline? Or does it taper off like stock?

Where there any other mods done to the car? Is this gain from the ecu re-flash alone?

thnx

 

The boost is not held only at 19 psi, but varies, much like the stock set-up.

The dyno graphs represent gains on a stock car and are for the flash alone.

-- DavidV

 

Quoting myself from the other Works ECU thread...

Glad to see someone (N10S) expanded a little on the subject. I have "good" gas here that does me little good on a car tuned for 91... Hell you could run 100 octane to little avail... That's why people are requesting a 93 t-u-n-e from Works.

 

... and that's what you'll be getting!

-- DavidV

 

Why isn't it programmed to hold 19psi to redline? Seems like the gains would be even greater and safe with the stock rich a/f ratio up top.

 

Okay, but the flash alone (assuming you have control over the boost solenoid) could conceivably raise boost levels beyond stock, on an otherwise stock car.

So, does the reflash you offer have authority over the boost control solenoid? And if so, what boost levels were run with the dyno chart you posted?

 

Sounds like my HKS EVC boost controller will fit in nicely.

 

What about a 94 octane map for us Sunoco lovers!!!

 

I expect David can confirm this, but from what I have seen it seems like the stock boost solenoid is really not able to provide much more than 19.5 psi. This info was actually given to me by RMR and not David at Works, when I talked to them in the past about this specific subject. Every solenoid has its limits and the EVO's is right on it apparently.

Now I do think that boost could be held at 19.5 longer, but again what seems like a good idea may not actually provide the best results on the dyno.

From what David mentioned to me in previous discussions, it sounds like the boost mapping is pretty sophisticated with the Mitsu ECU. They are able to do some neat things to get the best balance of timing, fueling and boost to optimize the power under the curve without getting into radical hp peaks offset by erratic timing pulls as the ECU trys to correct for detonation.

Sort of turns into a less is more situation as more evenly distributed power over the entire range results in more available power, more often with overall better drivability.

David if I have mispoken or left out some details feel free to correct me, and thanks for the positive comment on the 93 octane re-flash!

Jeff

 

Pull your air box... now look at your boost solenoid... on the vac line closest to you... about an inch and a half back from the solenoid pinch the hose until you feel the "little knot"... I'm not responsible for this "find", nor for what you may do next... only that it may, or may not dispel your last statement (esp. with a retuned ECU)... It's been discussed a little here and there... very little...

 

To clarify, holding 19.5psi with OE tuning sounds spot on...


David, sent you an email about a subject...

 

Zeus- Have you had a chance to see what removing the brass restrictor does yet? I remember one of the guys (maybe silver surfer?) mentioning that he had jumped his boost to around 20-21 psi by doing this mod I think?

Anyway the reason I ask is that when I had my WRX, I was running a VF23 turbo and a Prodrive ECU, and had several different aperature-size brass restrictors to experiment with. What I found was the restrictor size had some impact to boost, but much more impact to boost spikes and spool-up characteristics. The ProDrive ECU came with a bigger restrictor than stock, but this grey market ECU was pushing boost spikes of over 20psi (yikes!!)then settling to 18 psi in cold weather.

Re-installing the stock restrictor with the Pro Drive ECU resulted in spikes in the mid 18psi range, but still settled to a held boost in the high 17psi range. So the result was slightly less(or more depending on which way you go)held boost in the .5 psi range, but the change in boost spikes was much more dramatic with a swing of about 2psi.

Sorry for running off-topic, but I have been wondering about that restrictor comment since I saw it a while back.

Jeff

 

I know I have voiced opinions about the "somehow thin" TQ that the reflash offers, but now all this "hoopla" is getting me curious about your product. I only get Exxon 93 octane fuel, so when exactly will you have a 93 octane reflash available? How much?
Is it really dangerous to run 20-21 psi then taper to 18-19?

Let me know, including all the shipping and handling stuff.

Thanks...

"go ahead punk, make my day!" STI

 

Let me just put a few things out... Many are hounding for a 93 Oct. map but this may be jumping the gun a bit. Just like the ecu is safe at 91 Oct it would be safer for those on 93Oct although have that extra power you want. I noticed, living in NY for over 10 years, that the 93 is not always reliable... even at the best of stations. I consistantly had problems with it because i got to close in my tunings and didn't allow a big enough safety margine. The 91 map has a good margin and on 93 it would be even better... this may make it possible for you to add the intake and boost controller without needing reflash for that. In essence by giving the car better air and keeping boost from tapering you may find that the stock 91 map is perfect for your needs. Intake/exhaust/boost controllers are the first thing usually attacked by the performance driven man/woman. Take advantage of the 91's safety margin by going with the intake atleast and see what happens. If all is well and dyno goes safely go for 20psi to redline and dyno again. I'm sure this info would benefit Dave and all east coast people. Just something to think about.

 

anyone kno what a 1/4 mile is for an evo with brain reflash? or a 0-60