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Turbo Swap... Manifold studs!

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Old Jul 29, 2014, 02:07 PM
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Turbo Swap... Manifold studs!

Hey Everyone,

So I am going to be swapping out my stock turbo and manifold for a ported manifold and FP black in the next week or so. I am curious some tricks to get the exhaust manifold off? My bolts are almost completely missing and I feel like they are all going to break... I would rather not have to take my car in to a shop and have the holes drilled out. I bought a stud removal set and have had great success getting broken studs out in the past. Has anyone had any luck with this? Or any tips to help me get everything apart easier? I bought ARP SS Manifold studs to replace them with.

Thank You,
Old Jul 29, 2014, 02:23 PM
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soak it in pb blaster overnight and use an impact gun.
Old Jul 29, 2014, 02:43 PM
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DO NOT use an impact gun, especially if your bolts are in terrible condition. Use a swivel joint and a 3-5" extension with a breaker bar and carefully turn counter-clockwise.

IF the bolt is seized, what I did was carefully drilled/dremmel both sides of the bolt flat without making contact with the studs and use a visegrip to yank it out.

To take out the studs, use the double sided bolt method. there's plenty of youtube videos showing how you can do that.

Also, another tip when taking out the 4 studs that are mated to the turbo to the exhaust manifold. You dont want to take them out one by one, you are better off taking one off about 1/3rd, and then working your way around the other studs. This way, you wont end up stripping the last bolt

Last edited by leemaster; Jul 29, 2014 at 02:48 PM.
Old Jul 29, 2014, 02:47 PM
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Absolutely DO NOT use an Impact Gun.... that will certainly break the bolt.

Soak in PB Blaster and use a breaker bar carefully. Pay close attention to the studs/bolts as you torque the bar.
Old Jul 29, 2014, 09:07 PM
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One of mine had lost its thread so I used vicegrips up against the entrance to the hole so there wasn't any horizontal play to break the stud
Old Jul 30, 2014, 05:43 AM
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Take it all off together. Disconnect the lines and dp and pull the whole thing and take your time later and take it apart. Heat works wonders.

Last edited by DSMolition; Jul 30, 2014 at 05:46 AM.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 05:51 AM
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I used this guy right here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00265M8N4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00265M8N4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had about less then half an inch of the stud sticking out... This thing clamped so hard on that stud and pulled it right out...

I used a lot of PB Blaster and a torch. They all came right out.
If i remember correctly i had to make the one stud a little wider, so i just went at it with a welder until it was thick enough for the stud remover to grab it.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by eXtreme-Speed
I used this guy right here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had about less then half an inch of the stud sticking out... This thing clamped so hard on that stud and pulled it right out...

I used a lot of PB Blaster and a torch. They all came right out.
If i remember correctly i had to make the one stud a little wider, so i just went at it with a welder until it was thick enough for the stud remover to grab it.
I bought the same tool. Didn't work in my situation, but it is a really great design. I highly recommend it for pulling studs. I've used a lot of stud pullers and that one is by far my preferred.


As for tips and tricks, a lot of people have already said to soak the nuts. After you let them soak, get a small wire brush and clean off any exposed threads. This will aid in the removal of the nuts and you'll be less prone to snapping a stud.

I just went through this headache about a month ago. One of my studs snapped and I had to drill it out. It was easy, but still a pain in the butt.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewzaragoza
soak it in pb blaster overnight and use an impact gun.
A much better solution, perhaps some machine shop trade secrets

50/50 mix of acetone and power steering fluid (it can be used), shake well, apply.

I promise
Old Jul 30, 2014, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by GTijoejoe
A much better solution, perhaps some machine shop trade secrets

50/50 mix of acetone and power steering fluid (it can be used), shake well, apply.

I promise
Pinky promise?
Old Jul 30, 2014, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by GTijoejoe
A much better solution, perhaps some machine shop trade secrets

50/50 mix of acetone and power steering fluid (it can be used), shake well, apply.

I promise
ATF can also be used. It's how I pull all my Ford 5.4 spark plugs (2 piece design) when I have the misfortune of working on one.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NSDQ
Pinky promise?
yeas

This story below made me a believer.

I had a stainless exhaust with steel V-band fittings.
I could not get the v band clamp off of the fitting for one of the joints, it was rust welded on there.
So I removed the entire exhaust from the car, PB blaster, WD40, hammer, giant screw driver..... not coming off.

Found out about this mixture, spray it on.... 30 mins later, the joint literally fell apart. Now its what I use 95% of the time
Old Jul 30, 2014, 10:37 AM
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lol at the impact gun comment. PB blaster is your friend
Old Jul 30, 2014, 12:21 PM
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I tried removing everything when we did my cam install and we ended up just removing the head with the exhaust because nothing would move so I would like to get the studs out this time and replace with the stainless steel. Hopefully my stud puller will work if the studs break. 1 broken stud is enough for me.
Old Jul 31, 2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TeachersEvo
ATF can also be used. It's how I pull all my Ford 5.4 spark plugs (2 piece design) when I have the misfortune of working on one.

Man I hate those darn things. Silly design.

Good advice so far OP , except using an impact lol, take your time as well.
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