We do need to do this and it makes a big difference. If you know what is best for your car never take it to a dealer....

 

whaaa... why the f-word would they tell you that you dont need it? if i was you i'd call them and explain to them that, according to the maintenance manual from MITSUBISHI you do need it (every 48000km)

 

I tried to explain it to the guy, I was going to drive over there tomorow to talk to them. Does anyone have that page of the manual they could upload so I could bring it to them, I didn't get a manual with my RA.

 

Straight from the horses mouth...
http://www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/j...te/warranty.do

 

Thanks man. I was going to do this on my own, but after reading 19 pages of Joho's experience, I am now hesitant lol.

 

I called up a shop that my buddy goes to, Its 2 certified mechanics that have a small business. They new exactly what I was talking about and how to do a valve lash adjustment. They also said they would install my whole timing belt kit(pulleys, belts, auto tensioner, water, pump) and do the valve lash for $240.

 

Make sure they know it must be done on a hot motor.

 

I did this yesterday. I was having a hard time getting at the intake rockers... practically all of those I checked were pretty snug. I had a hard time getting the feeler gauge in there so I left all of them alone as they 'appear' to be ok.
The exhaust side was easier, looked like about 50% of them were ok, the other half I made some adjustments. Car still sounds the same, with the ticking of the valves being heard. I'll have to do it again some time with some help maybe.
The only thing I wasnt sure about is how tight to make the gap with the feeler gauge in there. I made it so that it was fairly hard to move but still movable.

There has got to be some kind of feeler gauge that would work better in this application.. something with a nice handle and a 90 degree bend at the other end so one can just slip the damn thing in between the gaps.

 

they make angled gauges but dont feel bad. niether me or any of my friends or family could get the lash correct. had to take it to a buddys shop.

 

heh, i'm gonna have another go at it one of those times.. eventually i'll get it.. i hope...

 

I know that this thread is being dead for almost a year, but here we go.

I'm about to do the valve lash, I know that everybody says to do it while the engine is hot and the adjustment should be 0.20mm and 0.30mm because is the correct adjustment and is the correct way to do it.

But why in the service manual section 11D-21 it shows a cold state adjustment? But not only that, it specifies the adjustment for California vehicles and a different adjustment for non-California vehicles.

<Vehicles for CALIFORNIA emission>
Intake side: 0.11 mm (0.004 inch)
Exhaust side: 0.21 mm (0.008 inch)
<Vehicles for except CALIFORNIA emission>
Intake side: 0.11 mm (0.004 inch)
Exhaust side: 0.22 mm (0.009 inch)

So, if the cold state adjustment is different for California vehicles, why it should be the same for all 50 states when in hot state?

 

The cold adjustment is probably to get you in the ballpark so that you can run the engine till its warm after having disassembled the head.
Regarding the california emissions thingy...... never seen it before. You -are- using a maintenance manual for a 2006 model year, yes?
See the attached section of the maintenance manual explaining the procedure.

 

I was thinking that is to get close to the adjustment. But at your manual in the page 11D-21.

That California thingy is weird, because if the adjustment change in cold state for California y should change with hot engine too.

Bahhhh, cant wait to get to Ohio and get an EVO

 

here's what I got for 11D-21.
and 11D-22.

*You need to adjust the valves when the engine coolant is within the specified temperatures because metal changes its size when heated. You want the engine to run at its best when warm.

 

my service manual shows the california adjustment, but I dont know how to upload just that page