Oops. Wrong car.

 

Although the sensor might appear to be a hotwire it is still a karmen vortex signal... you have to set the afc for the karmen sensor adjustment. You then need to intercept the MAF sensor wire. Basically you cut the wire and connect the SAFC stock signal input wire to the side going out to the sensor and then connect the modified signal wire from the SAFC to the wire going into the ecu. I'm including a simple ecu picture that should assist a little. I'm sure though that knowing it's actually a Karmens sensor will solve most of your issues.

black/yellow wire should be the 12V positive
brown/green wire should be the tach signal
black wire should be ground
white/red wire should be the MAF signal

You can compare these with your connections...

Since you said you have the knock and tps figured out these should get you set for the others. Now after you do all this and it starts working just pm me with my payment!

Seriously though i've done a couple and this should be the info you're looking for.

Good luck,
Boe

 

^^^^ thanks boe. i'm sure this will help out a lot of people.

 

holy **** boe. that's some ralliart gold right thurr! send him some money kiddies!!!

 

I'm not here to blow anything, I tried karman connection through the MAF red/white and it didn't work. The car justs idles ruff and if it idles at all excesive fuel smoke blows from exaust.

 

hey BOE...FYI.....that no worky

 

well, if someone who has the RRM piggy on their ralliart can find a model number on the unit, then we can get to the bottom of all this. dunno why no one has checked yet.

 

thats the info from the RRM piggyback (i know cause those instructions came /w the piggy when i bought it ). anyway, others who have gotten it to work said that it was a karmen sensor as well. keep chug'n!

 

so what is exactly the problem??? the only thing either unit does is add or subtract voltage. how can we have CANs and CANNOTs?

it makes some sense that the MAF would send back a karmann signal depite being a different sensor. def cuts engineering costs.

 

it's karmen trust me... you have to calibrate the SAFC though. You also need to pull off the true tach signal source. Some people mistakenly took off the crank sensor or even cam sensor. If you do use the cam sensor you need to set the cylinder setup differently to read proper rpm settings.

Also the tps sensor needs to be tapped correctly. Once you've gotten all those tapped properly and the SAFC is reading everything correctly you should zero it out and all should be ready to go. I've worked on two units with the ralliart. Had no issues at all.

Karmen reads in hertz... setting the afc in karmen settings allows it to correctly see the input and modify output in a hertz format. It works... trust me. You've just gotta land the right wires. Don't use the crank sensor wire! For some reason it doesn't agree with the SAFC on the ralliart.

Just keep chug'n like blk-majik said!

 

boe.. i checked my wiring against yours (the diagram you attached) and it doesn't line up

i am using

33 ground
34 power supply
63 maf
87 tach
89 knock sensor
115 throttle position sensor

-joe

 

It definitely looks like a karman sensor but we couldn't get it to run when it was set to karman. We tapped the MAP signal and set the Safc up for pressure and it runs great.

 

are you guys using PR5 as the sensor setting?

-joe

 

It'll run on either 5 or 12... we chose 12 cause all the other mivecs run a 12

 

it works or not