I didn't have a laptop at the time. So I re soldered the MAS wire.

The main concern is how the hell do you track which cells are being used my thoughts are maybe print out a page with the cells and then mark with a pencil which ones are being used as someone drives.


Do you know if you put all the fields to 10 does the ECU ignore the PB?

Full of questions.....

 

in that pdf i think you posted it said that you should start all 10's in map A and 0's in B if i remember corectly.

 

Fixed, forgot he spelled it all cool with a k... I mean, kool.

 

I would think a datalogger such as EvoScan would be able to take care of this for you. However, as mentioned above, there are some things that EvoScan doesn't log right on Ralliarts, but I don't know which, as I only played with a friend's setup for a couple minutes, and it told me my throttle was half-open while idling However, RPMs were reading accurately. EvoScan can also log from a wideband, which is VERY useful.

Other option is to have a friend do a pull with your car while you sit in the passenger seat and take note of which cells are needed to be changed.

 

The wideband from Innovate if bought with the RPM converter(more $$$) will allow RPM +4 AUX sensors, so you can log RPM/AFR/MAF voltage all at once in real time.

Anyone know if the TPS is 0-5v ?

Now just need to save up since it's not cheap.

 

For the purposes of monitoring the signal, yes it is 0-5v. The TPS signal used is between 0.35v and 4.8v.

If it goes out of that range for more than half a second, it'll throw a CEL and either a P0122 or P0123 code, depending on if the voltage is high or low.

 

So then with the RPM converter from innovate we can log any signal that is 0-5V.

Just figuring out which wires to splic into should be fun.

 

If RPM's plot properly you can record a graph to see where the voltage signal is at certain RPM's, then you can use your afr plotted with the RPM's to see which values need to do what. The problem is that the RPM doesn't plot on the piggyback so in order to do this you would need a third piece of software that plots all three. You can fix the tune by trial and error changing values and doing a run to see what your changes did to the AFR but it would be much more time consuming, and since you don't have the ability to map RPM to voltage it is all the more difficult. yes, all tens is basically a pass through setting.

Otter, I just explained the biggest problem with the trial and error tuning method which you described. Because of all this I believe a datalogger would create the easiest way to tune this piggyback. That is the route I am going, unless I can figure out more of the technical aspects of the unit itself. I want all of the features to work and that means more research on our cars sensors and how the piggyback is supposed to interpret. I don't have time to do this right now, I am in the middle of moving, but this is my current project for the car so it will be done. It's too damn cold to do anything else on the car, I hate cold weather.

 

So the tach signal is a voltage level? The piggyback expects a pulse if I am reading the instructions properly. 2 pulses per cylinder or something like that. If it is in a voltage range you definitely would have an issue programming this device. If it's in voltage that means most of the values in the piggyback wouldn't work. Either RRM has done lot's of things to the piggyback or the software is the reason I don't see an RPM and the piggyback does actually interpret the signal properly. I can't imagine how this works, so I hope someone who really knows chimes in. Everything about this sounds wrong to me.

--Daniel

 

anybody know anything about this? No RPM signal in the R4 software connected to the the RRM piggyback?

 

did you try PMing rock? they'd know better then anyone else on here.

 

yeah, I know they do. I didn't purchase from them though, and don't want to jump into an email conversation without all my facts. I intend on getting to that this weekend.

 

If you know which wires to tap, isn't this all you really need to monitor the AFR

www.zeitronix.com/Products/O2Meter/O2Meter.htm

 

That's a narrowband O2 sensor, nice for show, but not accurate or reliable enough to tune by. For that you really want to invest in a wideband.

 

Otter is right, a wideband is necessary when tuning. If you don't know the AFR you can't tell what you are doing.

from what I have researched the narrowband is like an off and on switch and the wideband actually gives you a broad range of values.

the wires aren't the problem anyway, you can see most of the ecu pinout in the link in Myszkewicz's sig. the problem is the signal type those wires carry. For instance the MAF signal that the piggyback intercepts is a karmen vortex type. Basically this means that it doesn't tell the ecu a voltage in relation to air flow, it tells the ecu a frequency in relation to air flow. The frequency is a square wave at zero to five volts. the higher the frequency the more air flow. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

There has to be something about our cars that is keeping us from using the safcII and the psc1-006, or RRM would not have had to modify the piggyback to work. The only thing I can see that would be a problem is the tach signal not showing up in the piggyback. This tells me that two things are possible. The first is that I did something wrong and all of you have the RPMs registering fine in your software. The second is the tach signal is not what the piggyback expects, and that's what RRM had to modify to get the unit to work. the karmen vortex sensor is not proprietary so that shouldn't be an issue.

The piggyback uses five wires. One has to be ground, one is power, one is the input from the MAF and one is the output to the maf pin on the ecu. that only leaves the tach signal, which doesn't appear to be working. So we have a strange tach signal? Anyone else have any input? Check that link out, pretty good explanation of maf sensors.