Who has played with the software? I know some of the PR guys have suggested proper tuning practices, but how does the software actually work.

I got the software yesterday, read all the information on the cd, and played with it today. I will post up my maps when I get home tonight so I can illustrate what I am about to explain.

when I have the unit hooked up to the laptop and the fuel maps on the screen the blue voltage indicator only moves along the 500 RPM range. The unit also doesn't indicate the RPMs properly. what fields are you supposed to edit? I ask this because the tuner I went to only edited the cells the blue voltage indicator lit during a pull. that doesn't seem like what the unit is intended to do.

Does anyone else have a problem with the RPMs and what does your map look like? We need a thread for just piggyback maps. I will post mine in a seperate thread when I get off work tonight to start it off.

 

Go to RRM site they have the options settings posted. First of check in the options and select for 4cil, voltage over RPM and signal calibrator instead of aditional injector controller

 

yeah, I got all that. Is it normal for the RPMs not to register?

 

I'm pretty sure thats normal, but however I did think that the piggyback was connected to the tach signal maybe it isn't.

 

It is connected to the tach signal, but I am confused as to why it doesn't register with the software.

 

I have some homework for you to do, Dan. I think it'll help you out as you learn about doing your own tuning.

For a bit under $100 shipped, you can pick yourself up a tactrix cable. This plugs into both the OBDII and mitsu specific port under the dash. This cable is what the Evo and Lancer guys use to datalog and do their own flashes.

Unfortunately, at this point, you can't flash the Ralliart ECU with this. The only reason for this is because the few people who develop software for this sort of thing don't have interest in the Ralliart, only the Evo (Lancers have the same ECU.) More info on that can be found at www.openecu.org

The good news - The evo dataloggers work on our car! I've verified this personally. I haven't gone in depth on it yet, but I know that the basics work. Some values are inaccurate, however, www.aktivematrix.com is making a open source datalogger, and MalibuJack has told me that you'll be able to custom set the formulas, which means we could correct the things that read differently on the Ralliart.

It's a whole new world of tuning to look into. If any of you, or your friends, are smart enough to attempt to disassemble our ECU's ROM, it could get us closer to the point of doing our own flashes. I've seen our ECUs on eBay for around $200.

 

car-part.com has them starting at $100 in my area.

 

The next step for me was to purchase the obdII equipment, I am just waiting on money. After I get that and figure that software out I will go for the wideband stuff.

I am trying to figure out this unit as well as the software to program it but no one seems to know too much.

Here are the things I want to know:

1. If the unit is hooked to the tach wire, why doesn't it report the RPM in the software?

2. What model number is the unit itself? If it is the karmen vortex version, which is the psc1-006 then why are there two wires missing? Our ECU has both the iat and map pins so why didn't RRM use these two wires? And for that matter what did they do with those two wires?

3. What is a good map supposed to look like? Or any map other than stock? I have posted two maps in the piggyback maps thread, which one is closer to correct? I have a feeling the tuner I went to didn't understand this either, so I need everyones input on this. Our application is obviously flawed(karmen vortex with missing wires, n rpm reading) and I am trying to figure out where and how to program this thing properly. It would be a whole heck of alot easier if I could plot RPM with voltage, but is that even necessary since the thing obviously doesn't know what RPM your at anyway?

I hope someone out there can help me figure this out. And if I come up with something I will let everyone know whats up.

 

thanks for the links by the way.

 

The one that is all 10s isnt what RRM give, mine has some other #s and i think is alot closer to the other one.

I currently cant start my car (valve cover is being painted so its missing) and its apart waiting for my new header, etc. but ill play with the software at the dyno once its back on the road and hopefully ill be able to learn something we can all use.

 

activematrix link is broken

 

As you drive the vehicle the car will go into the different cells on the screen those are the cells that will need to be changed. This is why RRM suggests using an old glass CRT monitor and using a grease pen to mark which cells are being used.

This is just from what I've been reading. It's hard to find info on the splitsec stuff.


I will learn more all I need is my LM-1 wideband w/RPM and I should be at least ready to start tuning. Here is a link that is beneficial for noobs. For me I had no idea what I was getting into but this guide at least explained some of the things.

http://www.splitsec.com/tuneguide.htm

 

definetly worth the time to read that. I think i need a wideband now. It would be nice to do at least basic tuning without having to rent out the dyno.

 

yeah, I have read that as well. It doesn't have any troubleshooting, and it says the rpms will read properly. Have you hooked it up to your car Adam? I mean a laptop with the R4 software, you took the piggyback off right? If you did hook it up did you see if the RPM's were correct, or at least functioning regularly and off a bit. Mine didn't do anything. It would be very difficult to tune with a wideband if you don't know what voltage you are at at any certain rpm. Or is this what a datalogger is specifically used for?


I wish there was a theory write up for the piggyback like there is for the mivec technology. It would be nice to know how it worked and what it required from the car in order to operate properly. I don't mean "a signal" I mean what kind of signal and how strong or at what frequency etc.

 

you definitely need a wideband. It's either wideband or after cat sensor in the tailpipe. I can't see any benefit with the after cat sensor, only negatives.