Piggyback software
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OK. My conversation with RRM went well and I want to start by thanking Rob and Gabe for being so helpful.
I bought my piggyback from a member of evom and hooked it up assuming the instructions he was nice enough to go pick up from RRM were the correct ones. Apparently there are two versions of the piggyback for the RA, and I got the old one but with new instructions. The tach signal is read differently than it is now, which is why the RPM never registered correctly on mine.
Gabe walked me through the software and we checked the wires (the fourth time for me) while I was on the phone. After all of this he put me on hold and pulled the instructions for the first version. He told me to switch the tach signal wire to read from the crankshaft positition sensor (pin 70 on the pinout/brown and green wire) and change the engine settings in the R4 software from 4cyl 4stroke to 2cyl 2stroke.
Everything is working fine and I am very pleased that I can now tune my piggyback properly. I am planning on the wideband stuff either around Christmas or early February and will be updating this thread and the maps thread.
+1 to Rob, Gabe, and RRM as a whole. Once again I have had a positive experience and gotten all the help I needed to get the job done properly. The support they show for their products is commendable, especially since this particular part wasn't even purchased by me from them.
Also, thanks to everyone that tried to help me out in this thread.
I bought my piggyback from a member of evom and hooked it up assuming the instructions he was nice enough to go pick up from RRM were the correct ones. Apparently there are two versions of the piggyback for the RA, and I got the old one but with new instructions. The tach signal is read differently than it is now, which is why the RPM never registered correctly on mine.
Gabe walked me through the software and we checked the wires (the fourth time for me) while I was on the phone. After all of this he put me on hold and pulled the instructions for the first version. He told me to switch the tach signal wire to read from the crankshaft positition sensor (pin 70 on the pinout/brown and green wire) and change the engine settings in the R4 software from 4cyl 4stroke to 2cyl 2stroke.
Everything is working fine and I am very pleased that I can now tune my piggyback properly. I am planning on the wideband stuff either around Christmas or early February and will be updating this thread and the maps thread.
+1 to Rob, Gabe, and RRM as a whole. Once again I have had a positive experience and gotten all the help I needed to get the job done properly. The support they show for their products is commendable, especially since this particular part wasn't even purchased by me from them.
Also, thanks to everyone that tried to help me out in this thread.
glad to hear you got it worked out. My tach was reading fine in the software but since you said you checked the wiring, all I could think is that it was faulty. Older version makes sense. What I don't get is changing the settings to 2 stroke. The tuner that did mine used four stroke which makes more sense and the tuning went fairly well. Is the two stroke setting just for your older version? What is the logic behind that?
Originally Posted by DangerousDan
So the tach signal is a voltage level? The piggyback expects a pulse if I am reading the instructions properly. 2 pulses per cylinder or something like that. If it is in a voltage range you definitely would have an issue programming this device. If it's in voltage that means most of the values in the piggyback wouldn't work. Either RRM has done lot's of things to the piggyback or the software is the reason I don't see an RPM and the piggyback does actually interpret the signal properly. I can't imagine how this works, so I hope someone who really knows chimes in. Everything about this sounds wrong to me.
--Daniel
--Daniel
Originally Posted by amax
glad to hear you got it worked out. My tach was reading fine in the software but since you said you checked the wiring, all I could think is that it was faulty. Older version makes sense. What I don't get is changing the settings to 2 stroke. The tuner that did mine used four stroke which makes more sense and the tuning went fairly well. Is the two stroke setting just for your older version? What is the logic behind that?
I used to have to do the same thing in my Eclipse to get the SAFC to work right, otherwise the rpms read wrong.
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It changes the way the map works in the car too. The settings are all stored in the map when you write it to the unit. If you use the CPS signal but don't change the settings so the RPM's read right you won't be using the whole map, that's the problem I was having with no RPM signal. The piggyback thought it was always below 500 rpms so those were the only map cells used. Gabe made it perfectly clear to write to the ECU each time you change the settings because you are telling the unit what to expect, not just the software.
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I am starting to figure the software out some, and since I don't have the wideband equipment yet I am using the graphs from my previous dyno time.


I laid out a grid over it and figured out the afr at certain rpms(roughly of course) on the stock map and then did the same with the p1 auto map. I then put the three maps I have been using together in excel with the information I pulled from the graphs.

I then determined the likely cell values for each rpm so I knew what I should be changing. After I put one map on the piggy and ran another chart recording I saw that I was still going into the stock map alot. I copied values into those areas and came up with a conservative base map for my mods based on the stock ECU AFR readings.


I laid out a grid over it and figured out the afr at certain rpms(roughly of course) on the stock map and then did the same with the p1 auto map. I then put the three maps I have been using together in excel with the information I pulled from the graphs.

I then determined the likely cell values for each rpm so I knew what I should be changing. After I put one map on the piggy and ran another chart recording I saw that I was still going into the stock map alot. I copied values into those areas and came up with a conservative base map for my mods based on the stock ECU AFR readings.
I ordered my zeitronix wideband(last piece of the puzzle) will keep you guys posted on how it goes....I'm anxious to get my car tuned properly with the RPW long tube headers.
Originally Posted by Thunder-rush
Adam good work..I use innovative for tunning with xd16 gauge for every day use.
I bought my piggyback from a member of evom and hooked it up assuming the instructions he was nice enough to go pick up from RRM were the correct ones. Apparently there are two versions of the piggyback for the RA, and I got the old one but with new instructions. The tach signal is read differently than it is now, which is why the RPM never registered correctly on mine.
Gabe walked me through the software and we checked the wires (the fourth time for me) while I was on the phone. After all of this he put me on hold and pulled the instructions for the first version. He told me to switch the tach signal wire to read from the crankshaft positition sensor (pin 70 on the pinout/brown and green wire) and change the engine settings in the R4 software from 4cyl 4stroke to 2cyl 2stroke.
Gabe walked me through the software and we checked the wires (the fourth time for me) while I was on the phone. After all of this he put me on hold and pulled the instructions for the first version. He told me to switch the tach signal wire to read from the crankshaft positition sensor (pin 70 on the pinout/brown and green wire) and change the engine settings in the R4 software from 4cyl 4stroke to 2cyl 2stroke.

Having read this thread, I think I'll change the software to 2cyl/2stroke and see if it reads correctly. The instructions I got were the old ones, I'm tapped into the crank position sensor. If changing the setting doesn't work, I'll switch over to the tach wire.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'm calling Gabe.
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yeah, that's a problem. means your piggyback isn't doing it's job either, or at most it's only doing a little something.the cyl/stroke setting is only for the math, so if you have the crank wire tapped then it's 2/2, with the tach signal tapped is 4/4. Anything else and you probably have another wire crossed. Gabe was very helpful, so no matter what I suspect you will get it to work properly.
does anyone else's wideband log RPM, or are you guys planning on buying the tactrix cable?
Ok Guys yesterday i wento to the Dyno with qlitv, he was having some problems with his car after his dyno visit last week. Anyway when we arrived yesterday and checked the map the cell that goes in 500rpm with 1.5v had a value of 25.5. The weird part is that this is not the first time that value appears there. Anyone has any idea why is this happening. I mean the car was tuned last week and got out of the dyno with 161hp and yesterday it came with 147hp with the same map and that misterious value. Any info is appreciated.
yeah, that's a problem. means your piggyback isn't doing it's job either, or at most it's only doing a little something.the cyl/stroke setting is only for the math, so if you have the crank wire tapped then it's 2/2, with the tach signal tapped is 4/4. Anything else and you probably have another wire crossed. Gabe was very helpful, so no matter what I suspect you will get it to work properly.
does anyone else's wideband log RPM, or are you guys planning on buying the tactrix cable?
I'm planning on buying the Tactrix cable on Friday.


