Piggyback software
Since I've got my tach wire still hooked up to the piggyback maybe I can still get a reading.... I'm going to look into that this weekend. Also I fired off an email to PR_Mivec about this RPM signal he would be the first person to know.
Originally Posted by AdamRA
I didn't have a laptop at the time. So I re soldered the MAS wire.
The main concern is how the hell do you track which cells are being used my thoughts are maybe print out a page with the cells and then mark with a pencil which ones are being used as someone drives.
Do you know if you put all the fields to 10 does the ECU ignore the PB?
Full of questions.....
The main concern is how the hell do you track which cells are being used my thoughts are maybe print out a page with the cells and then mark with a pencil which ones are being used as someone drives.
Do you know if you put all the fields to 10 does the ECU ignore the PB?
Full of questions.....
Adam I use a non permanent marker, do a run an make a friend trace with the marker the route the enlighten cells move. Then compare AFR with RPM and make changes..
Originally Posted by Thunder-rush
Adam I use a non permanent marker, do a run an make a friend trace with the marker the route the enlighten cells move. Then compare AFR with RPM and make changes..
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
you can use the recorder in the R4 software to tell you what RPM and voltage reading you are at if the RPM is working. My cells only highlight along 500 RPM between 0 and 5 volts, so that's all the guy who tuned my car changed. RRM's map is tuned along every RPM range.
This is the thing I am trying to figure out. MY CELLS ONLY MOVE ALONG THE X AXIS. does this mean my piggyback is not functioning or is this the expected response from the software?????????
This is the thing I am trying to figure out. MY CELLS ONLY MOVE ALONG THE X AXIS. does this mean my piggyback is not functioning or is this the expected response from the software?????????
Originally Posted by DangerousDan
you can use the recorder in the R4 software to tell you what RPM and voltage reading you are at if the RPM is working. My cells only highlight along 500 RPM between 0 and 5 volts, so that's all the guy who tuned my car changed. RRM's map is tuned along every RPM range.
This is the thing I am trying to figure out. MY CELLS ONLY MOVE ALONG THE X AXIS. does this mean my piggyback is not functioning or is this the expected response from the software?????????
This is the thing I am trying to figure out. MY CELLS ONLY MOVE ALONG THE X AXIS. does this mean my piggyback is not functioning or is this the expected response from the software?????????
Also double check to make sure all the engine settings are proper with the setup page on RRM's webpage.
Update: Talked to PR_Mivec and he agrees something isn't wired right or the pb is faulty, but I bet you mixed up one of the wires.
Last edited by AdamRA; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:51 PM.
Dangerous, check your settings. In options you should mark signal calibrator. Remember to check that your conection to the RPM Tap. In your R4 options I think is through view you can open a RPM window and see if the RPM output corresponds to the actual. It should move to other RPM's not just 500.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
well, apparently it is the piggyback, or something I have done. I didn't check anything but the tach wire but it's ok. Does anyone have any ideas why my factory tach works fine but the piggyback doesn't get a signal. and how can I test the tach signal wire? From what I have read a tach signal is generally a square wave so would I need an oscilloscope to test this connection in my application? This sucks.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
I used the included instructions, and when I went to double check the other day I took the laptop down and checked it against the directions and your ECU pinout. There are a couple of green wires on that connector but I am 100% sure I have the right one. The voltage is not registering properly, at least I think it's not. I drove around for like ten minutes recording with the R4 software and the RPM peaked at 353 and the voltage at 3.8. It dipped into the map only a few times in the entire run. What is going on??? I am going to double check all of the wires right now, which means if everything looks good I am removing the unit. I emailed RRM on Fri after close of business through there website but haven't yet received a response. I hope they decide to help me, since I didn't purchase from them rather than another (reputable)member.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
All the wires are fine, but the numbers are off.
At the lowest points the RPMs are reported at 72 and the voltage is 1.5. At wide open throttle at 6200 actual RPMs the RPMs are reported at 340 and the voltage is 4.0. I moved the map to the left four spaces to compensate for the difference and the reported values actually reach in to the map enough to say it is roughly tuned according to what the software is capable with no tach signal. I left it in the car awaiting the email from RRM. Does anyone know if the settings for the R4 software on their website are correct? That's the only thing I have left to diagnose except the piggyback itself.
At the lowest points the RPMs are reported at 72 and the voltage is 1.5. At wide open throttle at 6200 actual RPMs the RPMs are reported at 340 and the voltage is 4.0. I moved the map to the left four spaces to compensate for the difference and the reported values actually reach in to the map enough to say it is roughly tuned according to what the software is capable with no tach signal. I left it in the car awaiting the email from RRM. Does anyone know if the settings for the R4 software on their website are correct? That's the only thing I have left to diagnose except the piggyback itself.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Received an email from Rob at RRM and he is recovering at home from surgery. He informed me that I may have an early version in which the tach signal is different. When he is back at the shop he will try and help me out, but until then I am stuck. At least he is willing to help.
+1 to RRM
+1 to RRM
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,015
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
it's running properly according to the dyno"tune" I got a month or so ago. I hate that I wasted that money, but if I hadn't gone I would never have figured out I had a problem. I have figured out all kinds of new stuff because of this issue and once I put it into practice I will be doing some talking in this thread and the maps thread
Even more than figuring out these problems I can't wait to add some MORE POWER!!!!!! Without the piggyback being 100% operational I was pleased with my dyno numbers, I can't wait to see the improvements in the powerband once I get this fixed.
Rob just emailed me again and let me know he will be in the shop next week, so until then....
Even more than figuring out these problems I can't wait to add some MORE POWER!!!!!! Without the piggyback being 100% operational I was pleased with my dyno numbers, I can't wait to see the improvements in the powerband once I get this fixed.Rob just emailed me again and let me know he will be in the shop next week, so until then....


