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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Piggyback Maps

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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 07:02 AM
  #136  
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From: Rimouski
i have a other question ....why you Don't write in case of 4.5 volt...however when one presses on the pedal with the end the last case is 4.5 volt
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 07:26 AM
  #137  
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your tracer goes to 4.5V? mine doesn't, which is why it's not tuned for it.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 08:01 AM
  #138  
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From: QC
never mind
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:54 AM
  #139  
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ok i just bought the piggy that rrm sells and i have the rrm cai and udp and i am about to purchase their axel back system and was wondering what kind of tune i should use. i plan and buyin a down pipe in a bit , and rrm's cam so if yiou guys could please give me help ???
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #140  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by Ralli2004Art
was wondering what kind of tune i should use
The tune that will get you the closest to your A/F target would be a good start.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by Ralli2004Art
ok i just bought the piggy that rrm sells and i have the rrm cai and udp and i am about to purchase their axel back system and was wondering what kind of tune i should use. i plan and buying a down pipe in a bit , and rrm's cam so if you guys could please give me help ???
before you mess with tuning the piggyback you need to do some research. start with RRM's website in the piggyback ecu link. there is a writeup done for split second by another tuner that is very helpful on there, or if it's not there anymore go to split seconds website and find the u-tune.pdf file. same thing as what's on RRMs website, but in PDF format.

if you want to tune yourself, you need to get a wideband uego sensor and controller. if you don't know what that is google it and start reading.

I'm not putting you down man, just telling you you are inexperienced, so don't get offended when I tell you that you are way over your head at this point. I started the same way you did, and that means I'm no better than you, but you need to do a ton of research, and if you still have questions come back and ask them. I will help you as much as I can, whenever I can, but only if you are asking legit questions. you can find answers to your dumb questions by reading a little.

again, I'm not putting you down or calling your questions dumb.... YET. if you do a little reading you will understand how deep this subject matter is, and why it can't be explained to you question by question.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #142  
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There isn't that much in tuning with the piggyback. It's an effective way of making power, but it's by no mean an engine management system. Hence why there is way less to learn if you want to go ahead and tune the piggy.

Obviously, A/F ratio basics are good to know, but that's pretty much it. The piggy modifies the fuel curve. It doesn't do anything with timing, it does require a startup map and all the other goodies available with other engine management systems. All it does, is modify the A/F curve to get the most power you can.

Get as close as you can to the A/F target you have under heavy load and you'll be happy with the results.

Better yet, have it dyno tuned by a local shop and ask as many questions as you can while the person tunes your car.

I know d*ck about tuning and I still managed to get a few more poonies out of my tune.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #143  
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So, anyone interested in sharing SMT6 maps? i should have mine installed before the end of the week
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #144  
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for sure man, I have sold my piggyback so as soon as my smt-6 comes in I have to install it. I am installing a built ported head, IM, and machined camshaft soon as well, so I will new stuff to tune for then also not sure if this turbo kit is gonna sell, so I might be doing maps for that soon too
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 06:30 PM
  #145  
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How did i know you were gonna respond dan? you have a PM
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #146  
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Just finished reading through all 10 pages of this. Very helpful information. My piggy will soon be on its way, and Friday I believe i will be ordering a LC-1 from tactrix as a wideband. Hopefully everything works out. Luckily I just ordered a working laptop (my other one was like a mobile desktop.. always needed to be plugged in) for school so i can double team it for tuning as well. I still have a lot to learn about tuning and probably won't try it until I feel comfortable with my knowledge of it. I'm just getting the materials/hardware ready for now.
Thanks a ton to Dan for answering all my PM's and questions so quickly... He was up at like 8AM pm'ing me haha.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #147  
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yep, in to work at 7, on the internet by 7:01
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #148  
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I've seen that mostly all the maps were done for SRI.

Dan, could you make a map for these mods?

- Intake Injen CAI
- UD pulley
- 2.25 custom exhaust

and the piggy of course .
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 09:20 PM
  #149  
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do you have a wideband? I can't make maps for everyone, but I can give you suggestions. there are lots of resources sited in this and other threads, including split seconds website, for you to learn more about tuning. if you have any specific questions on your tuning I will gladly help you out
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #150  
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I was playing with the software this morning and I clicked the "read data from ecu" button. When it showed the RRM setup, I pushed the pedal slowly up to redline and I noticed that the last case that was colored was in case 3.6v-7000rpm and the modified numbers began in case 2.8v-1000rpm. It literally touched 5-7 of the modified case numbers from row 6000rpm to 7000rpm. WTF?

this is the original RRM setup:

sistem settings: voltage, programable signal calibrator
engine settings: 4 stroke, 4 cylinders
output settings: pressure 30 to 0 psi /3 vds FS

everything else is stock (meaning no changes). My idle case is at row 1000rpm-1.6v or 1.7v and my redline case is at row 7000rpm-3.7v. Of course I don't have a wideband, buT I was thinking of copy/pasting qlitv's tune (the pr guy) but instead of leaving it as it is, start it in row 4000rpm-1.9v < that's aprox the mivec changeover and finishing it in row 7000rpm-3.7v.
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