Log a pull and you'll see it. My logs confirm what Dan says.

 

it's as accurate as your research confirms it to be

 

Just need to confirm something really quickly before I go blow up my engine or something,

reseting my piggy to all 10's in each cell is in essence returning the ecu to stock and having the piggy NOT alter any of the signals?

and also just double checking, lowering a number (ie from 10 to 9.5) tells the ecu to add more fuel in that particular cell yes?

 

Yes. Make sure you checka all the settings though when you upload the map also.

ROAD/RACE

 

no, lower numbers are less fuel, higher numbers are more fuel.

you should not be attempting to modify anything in the software if you are still asking these kinds of questions. there is a ton of information on this site regarding that piggyback, go back and read some more before you cause yourself a major problem...

 

you should not be attempting to modify anything in the software if you are still asking these kinds of questions. there is a ton of information on this site regarding that piggyback, go back and read some more before you cause yourself a major problem...[/QUOTE]

I'm not doing anything to it, I'm still gathering as much info as I can so that when the time comes for me to change something, I'll know EXACTLY what im doing, thanks again dan.

 

good that's how it's supposed to be

Rob did misspeak/type though, just for clarification: fuel is added over ten and subtracted under ten.

 

yeah I kinda figured 10 was the base number for calibrating the signals and lower numbers ie 9.6 takes away fuel and higher numbers add.

and for tuning from stock tens, the car normally runs rich so we want to lean it out right? (from 14.7 to 13.3-12.9ish?)

 

^yeah at wot u want to lean it out more

13 for NA
11 for FI
IIRC, or is it the other way around

 

stevo you got it right man.

13.3 is widely regarded as the ideal NA AFR, although a dyno will sometimes tell you a different story depending upon the conditions. tuning for a turbo setup on an NA motor should be done on a dyno so you can monitor all aspects of the process, but 11's are certainly considered safe.

the stock tune should be rich, yes. they build enough safety into the ECU maps so they don't have to tune every engine. your goal is to enhance that map without compromising safety for your specific engine. you should definitely monitor things like knock, RPM, AFR, and depending upon your setup and goals EGT, injector duty cycle, MAP, etc. when making changes to your maps.

read both the piggyback map and piggyback software threads before doing any tuning. I went through the trial and error so you don't have to. there are also instructions for installing it in the DIY forum.

 

Yeah I've read everything already, this is more of a double check to make sure I'm not completely over my head.

I'm gonna order the zeitronix wideband package in the next few days, is it worth it to get the EGT probe for $90 considering im gonna be tuning for the minimal mods I have?

 

^i have ZT2 that i might think of selling

 

Zeitronix is by far the best WIDEBAND. It is because it is so much more than a wideband. It is the only unit we use to tune. SInce then, we tune in half the time and do twice the job of anything else on the market.

ROAD/RACE

 

Well if you've read everything you don't need us to answer do you

Seriously though, I don't think you'll need one. Your mod list is pretty short and should be pretty sound with just the basic tune you get on the piggy. You can use the wideband + the piggy to slightly change stuff. Just do really small increments ...

 

It depends on your future direction. If you are going to keep sinking money into the car and expect to use the features of the Zeitronix then go for it. the EGT sensor isn't anything special for an NA car, but it will still give you an indication of how the car is running over time.

The zeitronix package is one of the more expensive options; you are paying for a significant amount of features compared to a basic wideband o2 sensor and controller. be sure you are going to use or need those features before you spend the money.

I have an innovate motorsports LC1, which was ~200 on ebay (new) IIRC. it is barebones, but certainly sufficient for tuning the NA piggyback.